Anything I should do to engine while I have it out on a stand?

[19Walt93]

If that’s not married. I don’t know what is.

I've been married for over 50 years, there ain't any bolts involved.

 

[Curious Hound]

I've been married for over 50 years, there ain't any bolts involved.

Yeah. But how many nuts are involved?

 

[avid]

I'd replace the rear seal again, you'll never be closer to it and it'll never be easier to do.

Good point, but holy crap eight days shipping from RockAuto (but only $1.27 for the part) or a crazy $21 to $37 at the parts store. Wish I had thought to order one 8 days ago.

Edit: I changed order quantity or maybe added some different parts and the delivery time dropped to four days. So I went ahead and ordered the rear seal.

In the meantime, I have entire drum and shoe kits for both back wheels to put on, pads for the front, and leaf spring shackle brackets, hangers, bushings, etc.,.

 

[gaz]

@avid
When you describe your 35k rebuild as clattering, do you mean top end noise? If so, pop the valve covers, remove the rocker arm assemblies, thoroughly disassemble, clean and inspect all components. If serviceable:

1) All the oiling orifices can be opened 1 machinist drill bit size from stock
2) deburr all rockers, pedestals and shafts
3) chamfer all 90° edges, blend out

There are other ways to.imptove this non-adjustable valve train, if desired.

 

[avid]

@avid
When you describe your 35k rebuild as clattering, do you mean top end noise? If so, pop the valve covers, remove the rocker arm assemblies, thoroughly disassemble, clean and inspect all components. If serviceable:

1) All the oiling orifices can be opened 1 machinist drill bit size from stock
2) deburr all rockers, pedestals and shafts
3) chamfer all 90° edges, blend out

There are other ways to.imptove this non-adjustable valve train, if desired.

Yes I think it's just standard valvetrain clattering, which from what I've read is typically bad on 4.0s. It's a "ticking" sound. But to be honest the Mazda engine with the cracked heads sounded tighter than the rebuilt Ranger engine ever did. (The rebuilt Ranger longblock was from O'Reilly's and think it was PowerTorque Brand or something like that).

Hmm...

 

[19Walt93]

Yeah. But how many nuts are involved?

I was going to say just me but truthfully, marrying her was the smartest thing I've ever done.

 

[Shran]

I would probably find a cheap kiddie pool to put under the engine. Or large commercial baking sheets work too.

I use one of those rectangular black plastic concrete mixing tubs for stuff like this, they are the perfect size for a lot of things IE pulling a transmission pan or draining coolant on certain vehicles. Easy to drain too since they've got corners.

When I was a kid I always thought it was weird that my dad had like 10 of them but then I discovered how handy they are... guess I am becoming my dad.

 

[avid]

I use one of those rectangular black plastic concrete mixing tubs for stuff like this, they are the perfect size for a lot of things IE pulling a transmission pan or draining coolant on certain vehicles. Easy to drain too since they've got corners.

When I was a kid I always thought it was weird that my dad had like 10 of them but then I discovered how handy they are... guess I am becoming my dad.

That's exactly what I'm using. I have several as well. We also use them for cat litter boxes. BUT, they used to cost like $4. Now they are more like $10-$15 so I think stores figure out people use them for other stuff too.

Old plastic totes also work well. You can pick them up at garage/estate sales for nothing, especially if they don't have lids which you don't need. I just picked up a short long one (maybe 8" tall x 16" x 36") for a buck on Sunday.

As a side note, those black mixing tubs are worthless for mixing mortar or concrete unless you only need a tiny, tiny amount or truly hate yourself. It's much easier these days to buy a paddle attachment for a heavy duty drill or dedicated mixing unit and mix in a 5-gal bucket. Then you can use the same setup for cement, mortar, plaster, thinset, drywall mud, etc.,. Leave the hoe and tub in your memories where they belong.

 

[Shran]

My dad would mix up concrete in them and let it cure, then dump out the big block and use them as pavers on the walkway going up to their house. Easier than building forms & doing a big pour for a sidewalk I guess but they are heavy as hell.

I use them during deer season too to catch drips when I've got deer hanging in the shop, and during butchering to catch all the trimmings. Easy cleanup.

And yes I wish they were still $4!

 

[avid]

My dad would mix up concrete in them and let it cure, then dump out the big block and use them as pavers on the walkway going up to their house. Easier than building forms & doing a big pour for a sidewalk I guess but they are heavy as hell.

I use them during deer season too to catch drips when I've got deer hanging in the shop, and during butchering to catch all the trimmings. Easy cleanup.

And yes I wish they were still $4!

That's pretty clever to use them as forms for sidewalk pads but yeah, heavy as hell. I was a bricklayer in a former life so I'm acquainted with a) tub-mixing and b) heavy as hell.

 

[RobbieD]

... guess I am becoming my dad

Alas; the fate which befalls all of us, and that which we all denied in our foolish youth.

What goes around, comes around.

 

[gaz]

@avid
30k miles is where I was taught to adjust the valvetrain. Since these are non-adjustable and it's making noise, it would be prudent to perform and thorough clean/inspection.

 

[avid]

@avid
30k miles is where I was taught to adjust the valvetrain. Since these are non-adjustable and it's making noise, it would be prudent to perform and thorough clean/inspection.

Thanks for the response, Gaz. Ok, I will do it and update.

 

[avid]

@avid
30k miles is where I was taught to adjust the valvetrain. Since these are non-adjustable and it's making noise, it would be prudent to perform and thorough clean/inspection.

Welp, the driver's side looked good. Passenger side looked ok but one pushrod on cylinder 1 was a bit flat. I looked in at the lifter and the cap was coming off. The other cylinder 1 lifter was also losing it's cap.

I didn't dig the other one out as I'll need to remove the lower intake at a minimum anyway.

Thoughts?

 

[Mechrick]

The 4.0 is a bit different than most OHV engines in that the pushrods are solid and don't send oil through them to the rockers. The rockers are oiled by separate galleries from the lifters. The plastic cup is there to retain a bit of oil to keep the bottom of the pushrod lubed.

Usually the wear happens on the top of the pushrod at the rocker, but since lifters are available and it's a roller setup I'd probably replace them.