alwaysFlOoReD's first b-II

[Andres629]

Wow, I got lucky! Mine was rotted at the wheel wells, but everywhere else is really clean.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Some answers to questions I got on another forum;
I would have just drilled the spring perch to accept the spring bolt eye and/or the 2 1/2" block but didn't have a bit the right size that wouldn't drill into the axle tube at the same time....and didn't have the time or money to go buy one. This was done in a hurry because the truck that got stolen was written off and the insurance adjuster warned me that the DOT was sending a letter telling me that it wasn't road worthy without a salvage inspection. I've been through the salvage inspection process once before and it's a lot of expensive B.S.
I did weld the plate to the perch with two 1" welds, I am sure they will hold, but I will check to be sure.
Thanks.

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I busted the other ear flange off the clutch master cylinder the other day so I drove the b-II to my shop/ex-barn without the clutch. Other than worrying about starting off in first with the starter, there was no problems getting to the shop. You're wondering about the OTHER ear flange..... well, it broke off about 6 months ago and I jury rigged some plumbers strapping to hold it down so that the clutch would work. I guess that there was just too much stress on the other ear, so it decided to let go. I haven't swapped clutch masters before, so that's why I had some questions in another thread, thanks to everyone that helped!!! It turned out to be fairly simple to swap out, AFTER getting the old piece of shyte out, I still had to get the roll pin out from the master so that the line could be removed. That turned into about a 1 hour ordeal! I ended up using a ball joint press tool to press out the roll pin because I couldn't get at it with a punch and hammer. Reading between the lines of the instructions that I got with the new master, it seems that they expect you to punch out the pin while the old master is still connected to the firewall. Since I broke off the ear/ flanges, that wasn't an option. The new master was supplied with the push rod not connected, and you must make SURE to NOT connect it until you have the master bolted to the firewall for the last time. It was a pain to get the old master out with that rod connected, it would be even more of a hassle putting it back in. The new roll pin supplied went in easily with a squeeze of linesmen pliers. I also applied some silver colored 'neversieze' to the end of the new rod, I wasn't sure if that was necessary, or it may even be a bad idea if it collects dust and wears out the plastic bushing even quicker than the stock metal rod end. I had made a vacuum bleeder awhile back to help me bleed hydraulic systems and it wasn't working the greatest because air was getting around the threads of the bleeder screw. Next time I will take out the screw and use teflon tape around the threads to prevent air from getting into the line. I took some pics but I have to find the adapter to take them off my phone and upload them.

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I finally figured out how to get pics off my phone so here they are;

A pic of an old clutch master [I was thinking of using] and what came with the new clutch master;

A blurry pic of the line where it fits into the master. I carefully cleaned up the rust with a wire wheel and then replaced the o-ring.

A pic of the o-ring, it has a different profile;

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It's been a while since I've done anything to this. I built a mount to adapt a three point hitch snow plow to the front 2" receiver on the B-II a couple of years ago and have been meaning to upgrade the front springs since then....I finally got around to it.

Reference height pics, 12.5" at hub, 29.5" at fender lip




Just before I started on the spring;


The shock is a pain in the ass, I would have designed a hex into the top of the shock body to hold it from turning while undoing the top nut.

Unknown F-150 spring sitting on non-stock application washer;


how I tied the top;


pics comparing stock shock on right with rancho shock on left, the rancho I picked up at a yard sale years ago. It is for a 3" lift durango or something.


I had to make a bushing. I used some copper water pipe.


Installed;


I went to do the passenger side and the bolt came out of the beam. I suspect when I swapped out beams a few years ago I forgot to use thread locker;


Another reference pic for a d-28 beam spring mount bolt;


My set up for drilling out the washer to fit over the bolt. The washer is from a f-150 spring mount bolt;


washer over bolt;


from the bottom;
stock 84 B-II
unknown F150
88 x-cab F150 w/351 2wd
88 x-cab F150 w/351 2wd
87 stx hirider ranger


More later,

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

From the right,
the stock bottom washer
the stock top washer
F150 washer;


the new longer brake flex line, the same as in the tech section, Wagner bh120541 and bh120542, installed but before removing the metal bracket;


here you can see protrusions that have to be filed off in order to fit into the stock bucket bracket;




This is why there is a right and left side. I installed new copper washer but didn't pay attention to the end close enough. The flat portion is offset from the round part and will leak if installed wrong way. I caught the screw-up before I added fluid.;


My vacuum bleeder set-up. I grab vacuum from the engine and run it to the mason jar. It connects to a fitting that runs to near the bottom of the jar. Then another line runs from the top of the lid to the bleeder valve. With the engine running and keeping an eye on the master fluid level, I watch for the bubbles to stop and then close the bleeder valve;


After install reference shots;




And how it sits now;




I gained a little more than 3" and could use a drop pitman arm and alignment. It's not going to happen tho as all I use the truck for is plowing the driveway and the occasional snow wheeling trip. One of the things I have to do is get longer bumpstops or add a piece to the top of my beams....the shocks could bottom out if I hit a bump hard enough.
Some additional info;
spring nut = 1 1/8"
caliper bleeder = 11mm
bottom shock mount bolt head 18mm
shocks are Rancho rs5136
brake flex lines are Wagner bh 120541 and bh 120542
spring dia. `5/8", # of coils = 7

One other thing I have to fix is the clutch switch. It allows me to use the starter only infrequently. I haven't worked on one of them yet so hope I can just bypass it temporarily. If anyone knows if that is possible please let me know before I cut wires I don't need to.
Thanks for looking,

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I did some research on the clutch switch and it ends up being a real simple fix. Take a suitcase clamp and remove the plastic that prevents the wire from protruding thru. Clamp over the red and red with white stripe wires which shorts them together. From now on you can start the truck without having the clutch depressed. This will also make it easier when /if I stall out while out in the bush, especially on a hill.

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

This b-II is sold
Tho I got $500
Richard

 

[armadillon]

Future plans?

Sent from my SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'm in the middle of a forced move, new landowners with too high rent expectations. I still have a rust free body and lifted frame w/4.10 gears. I also have a rollover exploder w/ good 4.0 and 5-speed and 5.13 gears to put into the d-35 and 8.8. I hope to have time to put them together. But most important is to find a new spot.

Richard