Any way you can check the actual advance the computer is causing? Maybe 22* on the table is really 44* or something?
Only tangentially related, but how far can the computer actually adjust with a locked rotor?
Edit: Why does that graph have things up to about 11,000 RPM?
Yeah it shows on the screen what the timing is doing. But since I have it entered that the engine is set to 15* it bases everything off that.
Default setting is like 38* max.
Some people use a dyno to tune with, and then they probably have to have room in case someone tries to put one of the multiport kits on a 3.0...
Ok, when I said it starts and runs great it was as like a great starting point for it to learn off of. It did start awesome and idled smooth. It stalled super easy with the clutch and kind of hunted around as the clutch went in and out. So a great starting point but far from where I wanted to end up.
Thinking about it yesterday I had a realization. I set up the distributor exactly how they said. Set engine to 15BTDC set the dizzy so a reluctor paddle lines up with the sensor, make the nearest post on cap #1, tighten dizzy and go from there. Now I see the quick install card says to leave the dizzy loose, lock the timing in the computer and check after it starts. Their literature could use a lot of work...
Anyway the other day I checked timing the same way I have for eons with the thing, set the gun to what I want the timing to be and make sure the line is at the pointer. With the explorer FEAD it is hard to read the scale so I always just adjusted it on the gun and put the one line I painted on the pointer, 11* was its sweet spot. It hit me yesterday that when everything checked out day before yesterday I was going off the new yellow line not the white one at TDC I normally use... so the actual real world base timing was 30*. Without touching anything while it was actually running the yellow line just happened to work out to land at the pointer.
So I reset that last night and double checked it both ways. Timing gun set to zero the new yellow 15* BTDC line lines up. Set the gun to 15 and the old white 0*TDC line lines up.
It bugged me as I was setting it up how it was going to work because the rotor wasn't really pointing to a post if it was all supposed to be zero, maybe the Ace's distributor does. And maybe that offset is my problem too.
So I did that and cleared the fuel learn table. Holy buckets. Low end power is phenomenal now, easily breaks both rears loose on my gravel driveway off idle. Haven't stalled it yet and ran it back and forth on my road and got it up to 45mph. Having not driven it for over two months it seemed to pull hills better than before. The cutting out thing is still there but is moving higher, I am getting 28* of advance now.
Current plan is to set it back to original specs and start over on everything. I wonder if it still set to trying to run some settings with the base timing set to 30* and is slowly learning how to run correctly now.
And with only a 42 page manual that doesn't even cover what all the wires do it is kind of hard to figure out what all is happening behind the scenes.
