A few questions....

[dangerranger83]

There are days that my current engine needs the choke but once fired over and running I put out on half choke warm out up for a minute or so and start driving with it on half choke and as I go down the road I turn the choke off. This year I think I had to use full choke once to keep her going.

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[Teddyzee]

If your junk runs well, "cold start" is really a non-issue.
As much as I prefer EFI, my buddy's 5.0 with a 4bbl and Performer Air Gap ('85 RX7) starts right up with no issue in the dead of Winter after sitting for months.

Don't know if he has a choke, but two pumps of the pedal, turn the key, voila!

 

[dangerranger83]

Air gap intake it is.

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[dangerranger83]

Okay well hopefully going to get an intake and dizzy off a member here in the next week or so for a good deal. Not an air gap intake but an Edelbrock Performer 289 intake and MSD E-Curve dizzy.

First questions is if I dont find a 4 barrel carb in time, I assume this next part, can I slap a 2 barrel on a 4 barrel intake temporarly without an adaptor?

And also what is a good rev-limit point to be able to set on a 302? The truck will be a DD/ trail/ mudder with the np435 trans behind it and 3.73 gears with my current 32 tires.

Also how do you go about hooking up the MSD dizzy with the e-curve? From pictures that I have seen, it has a 3 in 1 wire hook up that goes to a canister type coil, what they go to im not sure, and another lone wire by itself.

 

[baddad457]

With the Performer 289, you won't have to worry about a rev limit. The intake is going to perform that task for you. And yes, you can run a 2 bbl on it with an adapter.

 

[dangerranger83]

Instead of buying an adaptor, I'll just go to the JY and find a 4 barrel carb and make life easier.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Instead of buying an adaptor, I'll just go to the JY and find a 4 barrel carb and make life easier.

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I don't think I have ever seen a 4bbl at u-pull-it. I can guess which vehicles had one though because they are missing both the intake and carb.

Good luck but you are going to have to catch it early.

 

[dangerranger83]

My local JY has a lot of older vehicles in it. They also have a few school buses there that have already pulled parts in them and one of them is full of nothing but carbs and stuff like that. I have popped the hoods of a few trucks and cars out there and have found a for barrels and some were even older holley carbs. They charge like 35-45 for 4 barrel carbs. Hopefully in the next few weeks I can start kicking more butt on this swap. Between helping the fiancee move, stuff happening to the truck, ranger meet up in a week, I have had to put it on the back burner for a bit.

Got a dipstick and tube for the engine though so progress hasn't stop on it.

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[baddad457]

I'd steer well clear of those old Holley's. The only thing they're good for is a parts source. You'd do better on ebay shopping for a little used (appearance is everything here) 1850 600 cfm Holley. You can pick these up for $100-150 and if you choose wisely, you can get one thats may need nothing more than a new accellerator pump diaphram and powervalve. These are the only parts of the newer Holleys that are subject to dry rot.

 

[dangerranger83]

Really just a 4 barrel that can get me decent power and mileage would be great and also reliable.

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[snoopjonnyjon]

I'd steer well clear of those old Holley's. The only thing they're good for is a parts source. You'd do better on ebay shopping for a little used (appearance is everything here) 1850 600 cfm Holley. You can pick these up for $100-150 and if you choose wisely, you can get one thats may need nothing more than a new accellerator pump diaphram and powervalve. These are the only parts of the newer Holleys that are subject to dry rot.

I couldn't agree with you more. Even buying a brand new 1850 is only $250. It's easy to spend more than that trying to fix old junk carbs, and still not get it right.

 

[dangerranger83]

Okay driveshaft time.

As you all know, going to be running an np435 with a np208 that has a rear slip yoke. Now the question is, what would be the best way about going with this for a driveshaft? Most that I have seen dont have a rear flange on them from the year that the trans got pulled from and I will be wanting to run one since I plan on upgrading to a 3 inch flange. Also, I doubt this, but since mine has a rear slip yoke like an automatic, would a slip yoke from a vehicle that has an automatic work in a np208 transfercase that I have? What vehicles can I be on the look out for with the closest combo that I would need and it just need be shortened?

 

[dangerranger83]

Okay may have the driveshaft thing figured out.

Now today i was putting the oil filter adaptor on the block and it doesnt sit as it should I will say, wants to have two of the outputs pointing forward and down and the other two pointing up and back. Is there really any way of fixing this or am I screwed? Im wanting to run my oil pressure sensor on it but the other two as said are pointing in a way that the block will get in the way. Other then running from the factory location, which wont work due to I will be running the can style pressure for custom guages, maybe I can but not sure, I can T off the proper line to the filter and do it that way.

And I did forget what the right answer to this one is but on the adaptor, it has a port that says IN and one that says OUT, which goes to what on the filter housing that holds the filter?

Also the person that I am getting the parts off of has got back with me but is now finding out a shipping quote for me.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I think you can maybe unscrew the threaded piece in the middle a tad to adjust it. I am going to try to re-aim mine in a different direction and that is my plan anyway.

I am actually wanting to aim them how you have yours. Right now it is angling back.

IN/OUT is in relation to the flow in and out of the block. Out is going out and in is going in.

 

[dangerranger83]

That makes life easier. And knowing what the inlet/outlet folws of the filter are, that will be no problem to hook up. Only thing is going to be running an oil cooler after the filter to keep that from somehow getting plugged uup with crud from the engine over years of driving.

I figured with my driveshafts, just kinda mix and match and I should be good. Just find out what joint sizes that I will be needing, add the flange for the rear shaft and in theory I should be golden.

Im told by guys running v8's under thier hoods that have more power then Im going to be making that they havent had a problem running their 7.5 axles yet. My only thing is my current driveshaft has the 1210 joint and 2.5 flange and I need the 3 inch flange with at leasst a 1310 joint so thats on my todo list to get.