A few questions....

[baddad457]

I've read dozens of times how advancing or retarding the cam affects an engine, but the only real way to find out is to actually run it in all three positions and see how it does. Without actually knowing how your cam is actually ground in respect to centerline (and the only way to know that is to degree it yourself) no one can for certain tell you if you need to advance or retard it. So all that considered, I just run em straight up going by the timing marks. Never had a regret from doing it this way.

 

[dangerranger83]

The cam i am putting in it is a stock Mustang HO cam.

 

[baddad457]

I'd just run it straight up. If you don't like it, then you can always change it (although that's not an easy job)

 

[dangerranger83]

Ya i got the cam in and put it at factory. Only took and hour or so and rotated the engine a few times and nothing binded up or hit, i.e. piston and valve, so all is good. Pics are in my build thread.

 

[dangerranger83]

How do I get the old dipstick tube out since this one is broken, just tap it out from the inside?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Maybe heat the block up with a mapp torch then tap on it if it dont tap out easy.

 

[baddad457]

If you can get to it from the inside, then by all means drive it out that way. It's a press fit, it should come right out easily.

 

[dangerranger83]

As seen in the picture, the oil pan is off so I can get it from in the block. The trick is finding another tube.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

As seen in the picture, the oil pan is off so I can get it from in the block. The trick is finding another tube.

Sent from my SGH-T499 using Tapatalk

That is the trick...

I have the Lokar one in mine, I really don't like it. It is too fat to work well with my 88400 headers and just like my Lokar trans dipstick is hard to read. It has to pass between the cylinder head and header just right and I think it wipes the oil off/smears it around to boot.

I find it hard to believe with all the 5.0 Mustang fanfare out there nobody makes an OEM replacement dipstick/tube that I could find...

 

[dangerranger83]

I have I've that was given to me and it some aftermarket one that will work hell our high water. I still have my headers on my engine and have tested where my new dipstick will be and it will fit fine.

I do agree about there not being much of a dipstick after market, guess people don't check their oil anymore.

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[baddad457]

I do agree about there not being much of a dipstick after market, guess people don't check their oil anymore

Yea, like the guy I bought my "new" 95 F150 from two weeks ago. 1 Quart of oil and maybe a gallon of rusty water came out of it when I pulled the roller 351 out. Lucky for me the #4 rod didn't make it past the #8 rod and into the block wall. His dad told me they could'nt figure why it just quit on him

 

[dangerranger83]

Got the broken tube out, a 5lbs sledge (all I had atm) helped with that. For anybody not looking at my build thread to see that all of this advice has been working (and I will condence it all one day) heres a picture of the engine as of today, alot more of them are in the build thread, page 55 to be exact.

And yes she is now an HO engine too.

 

[dangerranger83]

Well now im on to intakes. Going to go 4 barrel dual plane intake, have my mind set on that but now heres something worth thinking about...

For an extra $18 I can get on with an airgap in it. Have been reading that they can give a bit more HP's. But have also read that in the cold, it can make starting your engine and driving a bit harder until the engine fully warms up too. And also if you drop something in the airgap, it may not be fun getting the object out.

Point being, would it be worth the extra $$ to get it, doesnt seem like I would be out to much anyways.

 

[baddad457]

I'd do it. And I run all my carbs without chokes. Cold starts are simply a matter of babying the gas pedal a few minutes at best. The last motor I had in the Ranger (Explorer 5.0 with a Ford A321 topped with a Holley 570) would fire up and idle without a choke, without a priming shot and without baying the pedal down to 25*F.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Chokes make everything easier, especially up here where you can hope to hit 25 degrees for a high and stay below that for weeks on end.

I pump the pedal once and usually the engine doesn't make it a full turn before it is running with the 1403 Edelbrock carb.