A few questions....

[dangerranger83]

They are only $175 on summit for a set of 16 of them (for the 1.6 or the 1.7), I say it is worth it. But getting the stock rocker studs out might be a pain in the ass, never had to do that so will have to look up how to do it.

As I see it if i can get a cam for $45-65 and the rockers for $175 then it would be worth the 60ish HP increase.

 

[baddad457]

If you're working on a roller motor, the heads don't have rocker studs, they've got pedestal rockers, you simply unbolt the stock rockers and bolt down the new ones, and torque the bolts to 25 ft/lbs. The 15 HP figure I mentioned was what Ford got when they equipped the 93 Cobra 5.0 with roller rockers (GT40 heads) They don't flex in service like stamped rockers may do, the increased ratio helps the lift at the valve, the roller trunions greatly reduce firction and oil temps. (all Ford's findings)The only downside is you may have to clearance the oil baffles in the valve covers to accomodate them.

 

[dangerranger83]

Ya after I typed taht I took a look at my engine and saw that I didnt have studs. Im not worried about valve covers and mods to them since I dont have a definate set yet, only the ones given to me when I got the engine and they are after market ones.

One thing I did find in my research of these is I will need Pedestal Rocker Channels for them. I didnt see any kit say that they come with them but did find a great set of instructions on how to install them and it said and showed them being used. Also I did read that the push rod does turn on a roller lifter, thats one way you know they arent being over tightened.

 

[baddad457]

New rockers should come with the channels. These are required to keep the rockers aligned on the valves. Roller pushrods do not rotate in servce as the flat tappet ones do. This is because the roller lifters do not spin in their bores to impart the same spin to the pushrod. There should be no freeplay in the pushrod once the oil pressure comes up when you start the engine.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

They are only $175 on summit for a set of 16 of them (for the 1.6 or the 1.7), I say it is worth it. But getting the stock rocker studs out might be a pain in the ass, never had to do that so will have to look up how to do it.

As I see it if i can get a cam for $45-65 and the rockers for $175 then it would be worth the 60ish HP increase.

When the store brand is $175 and name brands are $3-400+... you have to ask yourself "what is the difference?"

That is why I walked.

 

[baddad457]

Crane Energizer 1.7's are listed for $240 on Summit. These are the same as the Cobra roller rockers. I've got a set that had well over 100K miles on em when I bought em plus whatever miles I put on em while they were in my 89 Ranger for 9 years. I pulled em and kept em for future use before I sold the Ranger earlier this year. They showed no sign of ever wearing out anytime soon.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Crane Energizer 1.7's are listed for $240 on Summit. These are the same as the Cobra roller rockers.

All depends on how much the extra 5-10hp is worth to you.

On a better engine with better heads I would be more inclined to do it, but I don't think it will make much difference on a E6 headed engine.

 

[dangerranger83]

I cant see them not benefiting somehow plus since the mileage on this engine is unknown, might as well replace them since they are prone to wearing out and Im there anyways.

Heres a link to the 1.7 ones on summit, same price as the 1.6.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66878/

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I cant see them not benefiting somehow plus since the mileage on this engine is unknown, might as well replace them since they are prone to wearing out and Im there anyways.

Heres a link to the 1.7 ones on summit, same price as the 1.6.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66878/

The pushrods wear but I don't think the rocker arms are really wear prone. Milage unknown but both pushrods and RA's looked new in mine.

The example I was given was 15hp on a '93 Cobra. I don't know if they had the E7 heads or GT40's... either are a substantal improvement over the E6's that we have. The E7's are 25hp more with an HO cam and the GT40's are more yet... then the 15hp is added on top of that.

Post 51:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61372&highlight=hedman+88400&page=4

Its your baby, do whatever but that was my logic behind why I didn't go that route.

 

[baddad457]

All the Cobra 5.0's had GT40 heads. And a different cam grind, which was a tad less than the HO's specs.

 

[dangerranger83]

I just kinda figure it cant hurt anything and if anything help. Plus I have never put on a set of these rockers and it would be nice to do that, always love to learn and build what I am working on.

I need to get mine cleaned up before I can work on it, currently it is a grease ball and being winter I dont want to work on it then stop and whatnot but its killing me to have it just sit and me not touching it. But I want to have most of the parts for it ready so when I do go to tear into it, I can do it with little fuss and nothing stopping me. Guess Ill have to fight the cold and degrease it and whatnot.

 

[dangerranger83]

Did some reading in the tech library and found a oil filter relocation kit for about half the priced of an advanced adaptors one. Doesnt come with the oil line but I think I can get that cheap enough for what Im saving on buying this setup.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-291/Application/?prefilter=1

 

[dangerranger83]

Been thinking about when the time comes to test fit the engine. I wanna say having the bellhousing on the engine would help me out a bit, but not having the tranny attached to it, would help me know how far back I can go to get the bolts in and out of the bellhousing for when the tanny does have to be put in or taken out (plan on going with a manual tranny so clutch may have to be serviced) plus when I have that then I can make my measurements for my steel plates motor mounts holes at the sametime. I know people say having a body lift really helps but I want to try to get away with this and not have to do a body lift.

May be one of those things that is easier done then said...sorta.

Also order a goodie for my engine, more details when it arrives.

When tax season does arrive and I get my taxes, Ill be going to the JY to go see what trannies they have and go from there, hopefully find a manual with a np205 on it. Dont want to have to use a bronco with a dana 20, I want a twin stick transfercase.

Oh almost forgot to ask, I know that the 351W and the 302 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern but am wondering if I do find the tranny setup that I am looking and a 351W has it, will the flywheel, clutch, starter, etc... work on a 302?

 

[baddad457]

302's and 351's used the same flywheel up til about 1981-82, then the 302's went to the 50 oz/in crank.

 

[dangerranger83]

So that tells me that i can use a 351W bellhousing, tranny, etc... but have to use a 302 flywheel, clutch and starter???