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A few questions....


Okay found this on ebay.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stock-5-0-Roller-Cam-Mustang-/190617535129?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5135096600253229700

Its a stock one as it says and Im only going for just an HO engine so anybody think it would be a good one to get? Im trying to keep myself from overbuilding this engine when I dont need to.

Should be good.

I picked up one locally for $35 though. Pop an ad on craigslist, almost every Mustanger has at least one of these laying around.
 
Thats what Im afraid of that one is just laying around. One that has attention brought to it since being out and taken care of is a better way plus ebay has buyer protection and whatnot.
 
Even I have an HO cam from an engine or two. They're great cams if you've got the gearing, but the low end torque is lacking for anything heavy. Above 2500rpm they scream to redline.
 
go pull a late 90's truck cam from the yard and buy some e bay arms...that and a good 5-600 cfm carb would be pretty stout.

though i would run a mild aod (simply a be controls valvebody kit) into a 208 for a road truck.


i suggest to open up the core and run a summit radiator with the taurus fan and a 4cyl fox fan switch, on a 40 amp relay, setup the ground side on a 3 way switch for control-ability.
 
Thats what Im afraid of that one is just laying around. One that has attention brought to it since being out and taken care of is a better way plus ebay has buyer protection and whatnot.

Mine looked like it was just pulled and coated in grease. I would rather look at it in person and say yay or nay right there than deal with the Ebay buyer protection.

And if it is a fail I know which house to throw it at. :icon_thumby:
 
Even I have an HO cam from an engine or two. They're great cams if you've got the gearing, but the low end torque is lacking for anything heavy. Above 2500rpm they scream to redline.

:icon_confused: Have you ever looked at the specs on one ? They're essentially a mild RV cam. And only slightly more cam than the truck roller.
 
There are no HO engines out in my local yard and my goal is to go HO. As for rockers, I plan on getting new ones along with push rods and roller lifters if I can find them for a decent price but stay stock unless I can get perfomance ones that allow for the use of stock valve springs, I really dont want to have to mess with the head to much. Like said, I dont need a high performance 302 but if I can get that easy extra 50ish HP by just changing the cam, Ill do it while the engine is apart. May just end up rebuilding the stuff above with OEM parts to make life simpler.

I want to assume that any Ford factory HO cam will work in my engine. And of anybody finds a good deal on one, let me know if you can.

I do plan on opening up the core for the rad since Im just going to use the current FEAD stuff, why spend more on this then I need to? If I cant find an exploder rad. on here or one in my JY that will suite me then Ill look into the summit one.

As for the info. about the what cooling setup to use bobby, thanks, thats the info I am looking for but want it to be all self automated, I dont want to have to manually turn it on or off and control it and whatnot.

EDIT: Looked on summit and there are a ton of rads to choose from, anybody have a suggestion (link, part number, etc...)
Above all depends on my budget and also my tax check, plan on having a good chunk of that going towards this swap, mainly to buy a tranny and transfercase.
 
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:icon_confused: Have you ever looked at the specs on one ? They're essentially a mild RV cam. And only slightly more cam than the truck roller.

Too much duration for an RV cam, especially a mild one. I pulled an HO from a '92 T-bird sport and put it into my '89 Towncar, with 4600lbs to push it was a dog compared to the bird. Swapped to a Lunati cam with smaller specs and it was so much better on torque.
 
Too much duration for an RV cam, especially a mild one. I pulled an HO from a '92 T-bird sport and put it into my '89 Towncar, with 4600lbs to push it was a dog compared to the bird. Swapped to a Lunati cam with smaller specs and it was so much better on torque.

Must be something other than that. The overlap difference between the HO and F4TE is only 9*. And the HO's intake duration is only 20* difference according to Ford's 5.0 book (276 vs 256 for the F4TE) exhaust duration is the same listed in this book with both at 266+ But these are only the advertised numbers, not the @.050 numbers. But in a Ranger, it shouldn;t matter at all, your not talking about a 2000 lb weight difference as you would with a full size car or truck. I ran mine with a mildly built 302 packing a B303 and a full house 331 and neither lacked bottomend. The only time the 302 did was when I ran it with a Vic Jr and Canfield heads, with a high rise dual plane, the power came on off idle to 1500 with no problems
 
There are no HO engines out in my local yard and my goal is to go HO. As for rockers, I plan on getting new ones along with push rods and roller lifters if I can find them for a decent price but stay stock unless I can get perfomance ones that allow for the use of stock valve springs, I really dont want to have to mess with the head to much. Like said, I dont need a high performance 302 but if I can get that easy extra 50ish HP by just changing the cam, Ill do it while the engine is apart. May just end up rebuilding the stuff above with OEM parts to make life simpler.

I want to assume that any Ford factory HO cam will work in my engine. And of anybody finds a good deal on one, let me know if you can.

I do plan on opening up the core for the rad since Im just going to use the current FEAD stuff, why spend more on this then I need to? If I cant find an exploder rad. on here or one in my JY that will suite me then Ill look into the summit one.

As for the info. about the what cooling setup to use bobby, thanks, thats the info I am looking for but want it to be all self automated, I dont want to have to manually turn it on or off and control it and whatnot.

EDIT: Looked on summit and there are a ton of rads to choose from, anybody have a suggestion (link, part number, etc...)
Above all depends on my budget and also my tax check, plan on having a good chunk of that going towards this swap, mainly to buy a tranny and transfercase.

If I were you, I'd forget the HO and get an Explorer cam. This is the same F4TE grind used in the 94-95 trucks and vans. Run it with a set of 1.7 full roller pedestal rockers and you'll love it. The rockers alone will net you about 15 horses, cooler oil and reduced friction from the roller trunions vs sled fulcrum rockers.
 
Must be something other than that. The overlap difference between the HO and F4TE is only 9*. And the HO's intake duration is only 20* difference according to Ford's 5.0 book (276 vs 256 for the F4TE) exhaust duration is the same listed in this book with both at 266+ But these are only the advertised numbers, not the @.050 numbers. But in a Ranger, it shouldn;t matter at all, your not talking about a 2000 lb weight difference as you would with a full size car or truck. I ran mine with a mildly built 302 packing a B303 and a full house 331 and neither lacked bottomend. The only time the 302 did was when I ran it with a Vic Jr and Canfield heads, with a high rise dual plane, the power came on off idle to 1500 with no problems

Could just just been a bad combo, but with my Ranger being 4000lbs I'm not that far off from where I want to be. The HO cam runs 220@0.050. Besides, I'm into low end power anyway so the LUN510A1 (206@0.050) cam I used before would be perfect again.
 
I thought the Explorer cam was an HO cam since its an HO motor. Now if i were to go with the 1.7 full roller pedestal rockers would I have to change out the valve springs, push rods or rollers or would factory ones do the job? How would going with the 1.6 ones do, I assume I wouldnt have to change a thing since its factory lift specs. I looked them up and they are the same price so if thats the case then I would go with the 1.7 if I dont have to deal with valve springs, push rod and rollers change.

doing this on a budget but I do understand that these are parts that could have alot of wear on them and would be worth the change and upgrade. I just dont want to go overboard on this when I have no need to.
 
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I thought the Explorer cam was an HO cam since its an HO motor. Now if i were to go with the 1.7 full roller pedestal rockers would I have to change out the valve springs, push rods or rollers or would factory ones do the job? How would going with the 1.6 ones do, I assume I wouldnt have to change a thing since its factory lift specs. I looked them up and they are the same price so if thats the case then I would go with the 1.7 if I dont have to deal with valve springs, push rod and rollers change.

doing this on a budget but I do understand that these are parts that could have alot of wear on them and would be worth the change and upgrade. I just dont want to go overboard on this when I have no need to.

You don't have to change anything in going to 1.7 rockers. I would though recommend new pushrods as the roller rods do not get rotated in service as those in a flat tappet motor do. The roller rod's pushrod ends wear to a somewhat knife edge after about 100K miles because of this. The net increase in lift at the valve is .030 vs a 1.6 rocker and being that they're priced the same, it's just that little bit of extra power that makes it worthwhile over buying 1.6's. I've noticed all my motors start and run smoother with roller rockers.
 
I thought the Explorer cam was an HO cam since its an HO motor. Now if i were to go with the 1.7 full roller pedestal rockers would I have to change out the valve springs, push rods or rollers or would factory ones do the job? How would going with the 1.6 ones do, I assume I wouldnt have to change a thing since its factory lift specs. I looked them up and they are the same price so if thats the case then I would go with the 1.7 if I dont have to deal with valve springs, push rod and rollers change.

doing this on a budget but I do understand that these are parts that could have alot of wear on them and would be worth the change and upgrade. I just dont want to go overboard on this when I have no need to.

You could try it with the stock rocker arms and if you don't like it, it wouldn't take much to slip them out if you decide you need more power/sneak up on a set.

I would skip the 1.6's if you do make the jump though. Really IMO I don't know if that is enough of an improvement to justify the price otherwise.

I figured that they were good for 15hp on an engine with much better cylinder heads... I couldn't see where $3-400 would pencil out that well for a maybe 5-10hp.
 
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