'95 Supercab Rehab - Dumb Questions Thread

[SenorNoob]

Do you have compressed air available? They often get build up inside that makes them impossible to get apart. Alternating cleaner (I use brake cleaner), penetrating oil (PB Blaster), and compressed air should clean it up enoughtto get it apart.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’ve used a variety of tools on those things. Finally broke down last year and bought a set of the aluminum tools for releasing those and they work better than any other tool I’ve tried. The hard part is that at least around here, rust tends to creep into the end of those fittings up to the first O-ring which makes getting it apart next to impossible. I try to clean out the spring area as best I can and try to get the fittings to rotate before I ever try releasing the spring. If I can get some movement, there is a better likelihood of it coming apart.

 

[Rick W]

Another thought about putting it back together. Of course, clean both sides of the connection as best you can. When you put the new O-rings and springs in, dip them in a little rustoleum.

No, wait a minute, that’s the other project,I didn’t mean that. Goop, E6000, that’s what I meant to say

Put the tiniest bit of E6000 or GOOP on them, and if there’s a tiny little pit somewhere, you won’t get the pinhole leak. But you’re just using a tiny tiny little bit.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Today's the day for the cam synchronizer.

I'm having trouble understanding what's going on back there. Upper intake is off. Engine is (hopefully) at #1 compression TDC. Cam sync bolt is loose.
Is this thing supposed to spin, or start lifting out, or something? It doesn't move at all, and the bolt is directly underneath the plug. I assume it's just stuck? But I don't want to snap the sensor off, and I can't see a goddamned thing.

Honestly not sure how you're supposed to align the new one. Apparently '95 doesn't take the alignment tool, it has this little window. But since it's impossible to see behind the engine, I don't see how I can look through the window. This dude is installing the window sync, but he has the engine out. Service manual talks about using a voltmeter for final alignment, but you're still supposed to use the window first.

EDIT: Plug snapped off the sensor. Still zero movement. Whoever designed this thing is a toolbox.

EDIT 2: Suggestions from around the web include "hit it from below or through the passenger wheel well", which is... not a thing. Maybe if it would already rotate so the connector was facing further aft/towards the passenger side? And "slide hammer up off the sensor screw-holes", which I also don't see happening. Even with the trans crossmember nuts off and the transfer case jacked up into the bottom of the body, the slide hammer won't clear the cowl.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Lower intake manifold out, small chain around what's left of the sync housing, slide hammer as close as possible to straight up like 20x, in case anyone else on the coast or rust belt ever has to deal with this thing:

At least with the valve covers off I can confirm I found TDC compression, and with the manifold out I'll be able to see the window. Just have to wait on gaskets.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

What's the deal with upper intake manifold gaskets? I hadn't really looked at it, but what I have new (and what the manual shows) is a long paper gasket, and what I have in my truck is 3 pairs of shaped o-rings pressed into the bottom of the upper intake manifold.

Looks like rockauto thinks paper is '95-down and o-rings are '96+, but my manifold says "95" on it.
Typical transition-year bullshit?

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yep, I would suspect so, ford liked to change things mid year...

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Forgive me if this is documented somewhere obvious, but is it possible to convert from the 4.0 "big nut" fan clutch to an ordinary 4-bolt deal?

Every time I have to take this thing off, it turns what should be a 15-minute job into 2 hours of cussing.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Forgive me if this is documented somewhere obvious, but is it possible to convert from the 4.0 "big nut" fan clutch to an ordinary 4-bolt deal?

Every time I have to take this thing off, it turns what should be a 15-minute job into 2 hours of cussing.

Every 2.9, 4.0, 4.9, 5.0, 7.5 that I’ve worked on uses the nut.

I did find a tool that makes it way easier though.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

In for a better tool. I have the parts store special W80585 with extra plate welded to the long wrench. It's garbage, but there's so little front-to-back clearance I figured anything that fits would have to be equally thin.

More pressingly, I guess I screwed up the valve covers, because I've got a pretty significant oil leak burning off the exhaust out the back of the driver's side. Don't see how, since I have new gaskets with rtv on the seam and bolts torqued to spec, but shit happens.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

In for a better tool. I have the parts store special W80585 with extra plate welded to the long wrench. It's garbage, but there's so little front-to-back clearance I figured anything that fits would have to be equally thin.

More pressingly, I guess I screwed up the valve covers, because I've got a pretty significant oil leak burning off the exhaust out the back of the driver's side. Don't see how, since I have new gaskets with rtv on the seam and bolts torqued to spec, but shit happens.

I use that wrench to hold the pulley and one of those flat wrenches the parts stores sell for removing the nut. If the nut is really tight, I’ll hold that tool in one hand and smack the wrench with a 4# dead blow until it comes free.

These stamped tin valve covers are notorious for leaking. People say it’s the gaskets but I’m pretty sure the real problem is the flimsy tin. If I had a plasma table I’d probably cut a reinforcement for it or something. The old 2.9s used little winged tabs to help spread out the force from the bolts. Wish I would have saved a pile of those back when that stuff was plentiful. I’ve taken to slobbering things down with gasket shellac and snug it before the stuff fully dries but it’s not an ideal solution.