lil_Blue_Ford
Cut & Weld
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V8 Engine Swap
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2007
- Messages
- 12,629
- Points
- 3,101
- City
- Butler
- State - Country
- PA - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Engine
- 5.0
- Transmission
- Automatic
- Total Drop
- 4”
You don’t need axle pivot drops until you get over about 2” or so, it becomes a ball joint adjustment issue where your ball joint adjustment is maxed out at 2-3”. What rolls the front axle is the stubby radius arms, being short they describe a sharp arc and the bushings don’t allow much movement. My Choptop, since I put long arms on it, I’ve never had a lot of trouble getting coils in or out, it does take a little fiddling and shoving to get the coils seated correctly, but the longer arms make a smoother arc that makes it easier to get everything where it needs to go.You guys are probably right that long arms are worth my time, but if I let it scope creep too much right now, the truck will still be up on jackstands instead of dewinterizing my boat.
I feel like for seating the coils easier, you really need pivot drop too, no? I can push the beams lower than the coils are tall, but the problem is the angle of the perch points the coil outward, away from the bucket. Single cab coils you just kind of fold in half, but the supercab coils don't bend like that.
I do understand that scope creep can be a real problem though, I’ve had it happen on projects and I’ve also had where I was trying to keep from expanding the scope and found something that needed fixed and forced scope creep. Guess it’s a vicious cycle if you work on your own stuff.

