'95 Supercab Rehab - Dumb Questions Thread

[lowspeedpursuit]

Did LSD clutches and rear diff fluid, which was almost my last "minor new owner project".

Left-most friction:

Dunno how that happens, dunno where the other ear ended up. I couldn't find it in the diff, and I couldn't find it in the oil pan with the big piece.

Ultimately I think it makes the most sense to pull the 4.56 Explorer rear and D35 chunk from the old truck, regear for this truck using 4.10s I already have, swap this truck's 3.73 axles directly into the old truck and drop back down in tire size, and keep the 4.56s on the shelf since D35 gears can be difficult to get a hold of.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yukon is making the gear sets again…

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Sort of, right? 4.11 is limited stock, 4.56 is backordered, 4.88+ is NLA.

Last time everything was backordered, it was well beyond their estimated times, IIRC over a year. They're also almost twice as expensive (list price) now as they were before that production gap.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Does anybody have an ID/source for the brake/clutch pedal shaft bushings? I had rolled the dice on Dorman 74016, all of which are way too big.

I see a couple likely candidates, but preferably somewhere that sells them in real life. Although if I can't find my spare brake booster, this is probably going to become a multi-day project regardless.

EDIT: '94 manual says 387957, which crosses to D8TZ-2471-A, which is '94-down, and the shoulder is bigger. Fordpartsgiant doesn't return anything for "similar parts that fit '95". I don't have the '95 body manual. No aftermarket crosses anyway.

EDIT 2: I decided I would get the rest of the '95 manuals when I needed something that was notably different from '94. Happened pretty soon. Unfortunately, the information I was looking for isn't in here:

'95 no longer breaks the components out of the pedal bracket assembly, so I guess from Ford's perspective you buy a new assembly and that's it. Obviously that's less than helpful.

Amazon has new Chinese pedal assemblies marked '95-'06 under the '06 part number 6L5Z-2455-BB for $45, $30 on sale. The Dorman bushing set was $10-$15, so it's possible the knockoff pedals are the move here.

I cut the black bushings from the Dorman set (medium ID, but thinnest material) down to the first slit in the shoulder to replace my inside two that were trashed, reused the outside two, slathered everything in white lithium grease, and sent it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Sort of, right? 4.11 is limited stock, 4.56 is backordered, 5.13+ is NLA.

Last time everything was backordered, it was well beyond their estimated times, IIRC over a year. They're also almost twice as expensive (list price) now as they were before that production gap.

Well balls…

I looked like 2 months ago and they had a few hundred sets in stock…

Guess the 4.10 gears are staying in the Choptop for awhile…

 

[sgtsandman]

Well balls…

I looked like 2 months ago and they had a few hundred sets in stock…

Guess the 4.10 gears are staying in the Choptop for awhile…

I'm kinda in the same boat with the torsen LSD for the front axle on the 2011. I'm on the contact list, theroretically, for when they do become available. That was projected to be in May. But crickets so far.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Okay, so, new RPM-dependent chirp on cold startup that resolves within minutes at most, not related to the belt drive, doesn't care if the clutch is in. May localize to driver's rear of engine, but it's hard to tell. Actual mileage is unknown.

Oiling? Something external? Or this cam sensor deal that's supposed to explode on 3.0s, not 4.0s, I didn't have on my '94 2.3, and appears to be jammed under the firewall?


EDIT: I've got work, but it looks like my part is '95-specific and rockauto has Dorman, Cardone, and Cardone Reman, so if anyone thinks the noise is that, opinions on whether Cardone new is worth it, what to look for when I pull it out to make sure my cam is okay, and what this "alignment toolkit" is are welcome.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Brakes are working but take increased pedal effort after replacing pretty much everything: cruise master, booster, pads, driver's caliper, and everything in the rear. New booster is confirmed doing something (pedal softens a bit when I start the truck). No improvement after re-bleeding.

What's the culprit here? I bought the most bullshit discount master, but they all have the same bore regardless of 9"/10"/discs in the rear, right?

 

[scotts90ranger]

I believe there's an adjustment on the rod on the booster that goes into the master cylinder, it's been so long since I've dealt with it that I don't remember how to do it though...

 

[Rick W]

I believe there's an adjustment on the rod on the booster that goes into the master cylinder, it's been so long since I've dealt with it that I don't remember how to do it though...

I’ve had to fiddle with that rod on the town cars. Moving it just a hair can make a big difference, start small and work up. On the town cars, I can pull the master cylinder back far enough that I can adjust it without disconnecting the lines. If you make it a hair too long, the brakes will drag.

For what it’s worth

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Thanks guys. Damn, I brought the old booster with me and traded it in directly for the reman, so I couldn't even match the rods. There seems to be a static spec of 0.98" for the length, so it's frustrating it would be wrong out-of-the-box:

I'll take a stab at it when I have the time.