93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version

[Curious Hound]

FIFY

When I did my FEAD swap in 2012



When I did my head swap in 2023 (and broke a bolt removing the PS bracket)



When I pulled my brackets in the JY I had that Explorer stripped down to the timing cover. I was looking right at it. Had my brackets and stuff in one pile and the radiator/condenser and everything else in another pile, I had gone to town stripping this thing. It had one broken bolt in the water pump so the timing cover had to slide straight off. Not possible without shearing the oil pan gasket in half (cover would probably break first) IIRC I made two trips up there fighting with the thing and gave up and ordered a new cover.

Without a broken bolt when you remove the dampener you have enough slop in the front seal you can easily remove the cover. If you notice my 1yo one piece gasket did stick to the cover and one end tore off each time but a dab of silicone and it is still bone dry.

Ok. So the answer is; if no broken bolts, it doesn't. Or, if it hasn't been stuck together for 30 years. I don't like the idea of sliding the timing cover off in a sgearing movement against that gasket.

 

[bobbywalter]

302/351 windor cleveland idioms.

was always wiping out pumps so i rarely broke bolts. a mixed blessing.

i always broke bolts working on others and always got stud bolts whenever i was scrounging at the junk yard. i have a hoard somewhere i can not find. these are necessary for the older FEAD setups.

there are two setups for these bolts last i looked recently readily available from the dorman help. but could not use them to fix my sisters truck...i ended up truss bolting hers due to time constraints as the shop it was at wanted 1200 to do the job.

so it is driving with 3...THREE missing bolts via the truss bolt....untill i can get to it properly.

shit you do to get out of the woods so to speak.

as to the idioms.

this is the best thing about the LS platform...that i love if you are a ford guy.. you dont have many dumbshit areas where people can goop it to death sealing it up...though there are plenty of dipshits that manage to.

for the most part with the paper gasket systems... i do not put this style system together wet. you would have to be an idiot to do that. or really like fawking up surfaces scraping and whizzer wheeling stuff to death.

i will light film wipe with my finger the pump and or covers on the removal side surfaces and glue the gasket to that and let it setup dry.. then i anti-seize the bolts and threads and inner cover holes with q tips and put the cover on with the gasket dry.

sometimes even oiled depending on what it is.

you do whatever the hell you want....but the key is not leaving it together too long. the other dirty trick was learned from worn/corroded covers...

lightly chamfering the port holes for the flow paths and adding small orings.

this may be something to consider since i dont think you will be tearing up water pumps....like me. i will say my rev limiter was often valve float....not 6250...

 

[Curious Hound]

I was planning on using anti-seize. But hadn't thought about coating those holes. Great idea.

 

[rubydist]

Yes. I hooked my Ranger cable to the 4R70w, works just fine. Done it in two trucks now.

I thought the arm on the transmission was flipped top to bottom for a floor shift v. column shift ??? Don't you have to change that to connect a column shift cable to a transmission that was for a floor shift?

 

[bobbywalter]

I thought the arm on the transmission was flipped top to bottom for a floor shift v. column shift ??? Don't you have to change that to connect a column shift cable to a transmission that was for a floor shift?

depends

 

[Curious Hound]

I thought the arm on the transmission was flipped top to bottom for a floor shift v. column shift ??? Don't you have to change that to connect a column shift cable to a transmission that was for a floor shift?

The floor shifyer I have/had in mind can push the cable either direction.

 

[Curious Hound]

My musical instruments arrived today.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I thought the arm on the transmission was flipped top to bottom for a floor shift v. column shift ??? Don't you have to change that to connect a column shift cable to a transmission that was for a floor shift?

Floor shift won’t use a Ranger cable. In fact, the floor shift A4LD (first and second gen’s only) did not use a cable but a bar linkage. I have an extra floor pan with the linkage and shifter here that I salvaged years ago.

Both of the trucks I’ve done the 5.0/4R70w swap to were 00 Rangers with column shifters and the donors were Explorer/Mountaineers with column shifters. I just hooked the Ranger cable to the 4R70w and that was that, didn’t bother to swap cables or anything.

@Curious Hound has it right, a push/pull shifter is needed for a floor shift

 

[Curious Hound]

Floor shift won’t use a Ranger cable. In fact, the floor shift A4LD (first and second gen’s only) did not use a cable but a bar linkage. I have an extra floor pan with the linkage and shifter here that I salvaged years ago.

Both of the trucks I’ve done the 5.0/4R70w swap to were 00 Rangers with column shifters and the donors were Explorer/Mountaineers with column shifters. I just hooked the Ranger cable to the 4R70w and that was that, didn’t bother to swap cables or anything.

@Curious Hound has it right, a push/pull shifter is needed for a floor shift

There are options available. Shifting is not one of my biggest concerns at this moment. I have long arms. I can just put a hole in the floor and reach through.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

There are options available. Shifting is not one of my biggest concerns at this moment. I have long arms. I can just put a hole in the floor and reach through.

So, I’ve actually driven both my Choptop and F-150 by grabbing the shifter stub (my Choptop has been converted to have a shifter stub) when the shifter failed. It’s an entertaining way to drive around. I do recommend using a leather glove on the hand you’re operating the shifter with, lol

 

[Curious Hound]

Got a little bit done yesterday afternoon and today. Not much to show in pictures. I pulled the torque converter and let it start draining in a pan. Then, removed the pan from the transmission so it can drain. After that, I got out some taps and chased the threads on all the mounting holes I could access on the bottom, sides and ends of the block. Scraped old gaskets from mating surfaces. Installed new oil pump and pickup. Beat on brand new oil pan with a ball pein hammer so it would clear the new high volume oil pump. Installed the new timing chain and sprockets and torqued the cam sprocket bolt. I wrote that down and recorded it here so if I forget whether or not it's torqued, I can find out without disassembling the engine. There will be more notes like that recorded throughout this process.

The magnet in the transmission pan. Lots of fine material. No big chunks. Yay!

How much can you beat on an oil pan wuthout damaging it? Adjustments made in the upper and right sides of that well down by the drain plug.

New oil pump and pickup tube.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I've noticed some aftermarket pans need adjusted just to clear the stock oil pump.

Are you doing freeze plugs too while you are there?

I had to replace one like two months after I swapped it in and it really really sucked.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Got a little bit done yesterday afternoon and today. Not much to show in pictures. I pulled the torque converter and let it start draining in a pan. Then, removed the pan from the transmission so it can drain. After that, I got out some taps and chased the threads on all the mounting holes I could access on the bottom, sides and ends of the block. Scraped old gaskets from mating surfaces. Installed new oil pump and pickup. Beat on brand new oil pan with a ball pein hammer so it would clear the new high volume oil pump. Installed the new timing chain and sprockets but I couldn't find the cam sprocket bolt so I need to circle back and get that installed and torqued after I source one. I wrote that down and recorded it here so if I forget whether or not it's torqued, I can find out without disassembling the engine. There will be more notes like that recorded throughout this process.

The magnet in the transmission pan. Lots of fine material. No big chunks. Yay!
View attachment 140115

How much can you beat on an oil pan wuthout damaging it? Adjustments made in the upper and right sides of that well down by the drain plug.
View attachment 140116

New oil pump and pickup tube.
View attachment 140117

FIFY

If only I had a way to edit posts this could be a lot of fun...

 

[Curious Hound]

I've noticed some aftermarket pans need adjusted just to clear the stock oil pump.

Are you doing freeze plugs too while you are there?

I had to replace one like two months after I swapped it in and it really really sucked.

I've thought about freeze plugs. But they appear to be in great shape. No rust. No signs of leaking or weeping. I think I'm going to take my chances and not disturb them. This was not a northern salt-belt vehicle.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I've thought about freeze plugs. But they appear to be in great shape. No rust. No signs of leaking or weeping. I think I'm going to take my chances and not disturb them. This was not a northern salt-belt vehicle.

Mine went from the inside out.