93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version

[85_Ranger4x4]

I wanted one badly, but just sooo spendy. I'm sticking with the 3.5" for mine and printing out a mount for it

Its amazing how much they get for that stuff, the gauges I want are about a grand.

 

[ryan]

Its amazing how much they get for that stuff, the gauges I want are about a grand.

The little OBD based ones are pretty solid alternatives - used one in my buggy

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The little OBD based ones are pretty solid alternatives - used one in my buggy

I'm thinking something like this with the two big gauge pods on a custom bracket to fit behind my original gauge bezel.

71-73 MUSTANG W/O CONSOLE 69 SERIES

New Vintage USA, Classic style gauges, hot rod, muscle car, truck, custom gauges, NVU, Squarebody, OBS

newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com

I haven't gotten super serious about it but I like the concept of accurate gauges.

 

[Curious Hound]

More disassembly today. I was going to begine re-assembly with new parts. But, I'm not ready. The timing chain assembly I ordered seems to be wrong. Plus, I need some new bolts for the water pump. Two of them broke. Both successfully removed now.

This bolt broke outside the water pump.

this bolt broke midway through the timing cover.

Let's hope these are the only circumstances that this engine ever finds itself in this orientation.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Those bolts are good for that... thanks to Ford's genius timing cover design.

What is up with your new timing chain?

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yeah, I bought some generic cheap unit and it went in just fine...

 

[Curious Hound]

Those bolts are good for that... thanks to Ford's genius timing cover design.

What is up with your new timing chain?

I ordered the wrong thing, Probably the 4.0l set. It was a single row roller chain. The sprockets were bored different and it had plastic guide assemblies. It's on the way back to Summit and the correct set is on the way here along with, hopefully, enough studs and bolts to replace all the timing cover/water pump fasteners. Couldn't find a set exactly for the Explorer engine. Found a set for Mustangs, pre-95. But they didn't all look right in the picture. Then found a 3 piece water pump stud set that looks like it has 1 in the length I need. So I ordered 2 of the 3 piece sets and one of the Mustang sets. Out of all that, I should be good. I'll post the results and part numbers for future generations when I get it worked out.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I ordered the wrong thing, Probably the 4.0l set. It was a single row roller chain. The sprockets were bored different and it had plastic guide assemblies. It's on the way back to Summit and the correct set is on the way here along with, hopefully, enough studs and bolts to replace all the timing cover/water pump fasteners. Couldn't find a set exactly for the Explorer engine. Found a set for Mustangs, pre-95. But they didn't all look right in the picture. Then found a 3 piece water pump stud set that looks like it has 1 in the length I need. So I ordered 2 of the 3 piece sets and one of the Mustang sets. Out of all that, I should be good. I'll post the results and part numbers for future generations when I get it worked out.

I used bolts, partially because that is how it was and partially so I could remove the timing cover down the road (like if I break a bolt replacing the water pump) without having to drop the oil pan.

 

[Curious Hound]

I used bolts, partially because that is how it was and partially so I could remove the timing cover down the road (like if I break a bolt replacing the water pump) without having to drop the oil pan.

I'm not sure what you're saying. The only difference it would make if I used all bolts instead of some having studs sitcking out of their heads, is that I wouldn't have as easy of a time mounting other things in some of those positions. No matter which it is, if it breaks, both the water pump and timing cover must come off to remove the broken piece. All the bolts/studs either go through the timing cover into the block or through the water pump & timing cover intp the block.

I'll have to look later and see if oil pan has to come off. I'm out for dinner and trivia night right now.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I had one corroded in the timing cover bad enough that it held it tight and I ran with it broken for a few years...

 

[Curious Hound]

I had one corroded in the timing cover bad enough that it held it tight and I ran with it broken for a few years...

Both of these were like that. Engine is on the stand in the shop. There's no reason to avoid dealing with it properly right now.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I get ya, I would fix it in your shoes as well... when mine broke I was changing the water pump in a camp site in the sand dunes on memorial weekend because the belt kept falling off (one row of the bearing was apparently missing, no leak somehow), I just kept running it until it leaked which it didn't , fixed it right when I tore the engine down...

 

[Curious Hound]

I get ya, I would fix it in your shoes as well... when mine broke I was changing the water pump in a camp site in the sand dunes on memorial weekend because the belt kept falling off (one row of the bearing was apparently missing, no leak somehow), I just kept running it until it leaked which it didn't , fixed it right when I tore the engine down...

I would agree with that decision.

 

[Curious Hound]

I'll have to look later and see if oil pan has to come off.

It does.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It doesn't.

FIFY

When I did my FEAD swap in 2012



When I did my head swap in 2023 (and broke a bolt removing the PS bracket)



When I pulled my brackets in the JY I had that Explorer stripped down to the timing cover. I was looking right at it. Had my brackets and stuff in one pile and the radiator/condenser and everything else in another pile, I had gone to town stripping this thing. It had one broken bolt in the water pump flush with the timing cover so the timing cover had to slide straight off. Not possible without shearing the oil pan gasket in half (cover would probably break first) IIRC I made two trips up there fighting with the thing and gave up and ordered a new cover.

Without a broken bolt when you remove the dampener you have enough slop in the front seal you can easily remove the cover. If you notice my 1yo one piece gasket did stick to the cover and one end tore off each time but a dab of silicone and it is still bone dry.