89 BII

[McWillies]

One thing I forgot to ask earlier, not sure if it's normal or not. I've noticed that when I drive, my fuel gauge goes down like usual depending on how much I drive. After shutting it off and going about my business, the next time I start it up, the gas gauge is slightly lower than when I shut it off. Couldn't really give you an accurate measure of how much, buts it's just enough to be noticeable, maybe a centimeter or two. Anyone know what could cause this?

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[JerryC]

Well, the issue is I can't fill up all the way because my filler neck has a crack in it. I usually put 14 gallons in when I reach a quarter tank and that brings me right at the F. I suppose I have 3 or so gallons left to fill.
I'm glad it's doing better too!

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Which part is cracked? Is it just the outer house or The actual filler neck?
I bought s replacement hose kit (it's two hoses and a coupler) from a place called filler neck supply a few years ago. I have read that people have modified filler necks from ranger pickups without too much trouble.

 

[McWillies]

Which part is cracked? Is it just the outer house or The actual filler neck?
I bought s replacement hose kit (it's two hoses and a coupler) from a place called filler neck supply a few years ago. I have read that people have modified filler necks from ranger pickups without too much trouble.

Just a few inches behind the fill hole. When I fill up all the way, gasoline pours out of the crack, so I guess it's cracked all the way through. I still have the junk BII that I can get a filler neck off of, just have to find the time and motivation. Picked up some techron on my way out today, just gotta wait till my tank gets low then I'll dump it in.

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[Dangerrangers]

Sorry about the confusion. I meant that I would like to do the axle swaps/lifts at the same time, I just needed to know how much the axles would be. The 4.0 will come later. Mainly what I meant by the phasing is which mod should I do first? I have been looking at some 33s for it, are there any ones you could recommend around the $160-$180 price range? About the driveshafts, is there any way to buy it? If not, what kind of mods am I looking at?

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As far as tires go I bought a set of MasterCraft MXTs and love them , there awesome on and off road ,tough, aggressive and are holding up much better than other big name over priced mud tires that I also have and they are made by Cooper tire right here in the USA.. Have fun with your build and take your time and do it once and dont screw yourself by having to redo things. You've come to the right place to gain knowledge from some really good people....Enjoy

 

[McWillies]

Beautiful day today. Coolest it's been all summer, low 70s in the morning and low 80s in the daytime. Welp, set off to school this morning in my lil ole bronco ii and she decided to start going slow on me. Seems like the issue from before (slow acceleration, uphill issues, etc.) has come back to haunt me. Feels just like it did before the shop fixed the timing issues, after I goofed it up. Not when it was only going 45mph btw, before that when I would complain about her being slow and having little to no power. It seems like I've noticed it doing worse the last week or two, but I figured it was just me adjusting to the new feel of it. Turns out I might've been right. Can't remember much from this morning, so I'll explain the symptoms from when I was driving home. Was pulling onto the main road out of my school, I pulled out with plenty of space between me and the guy coming towards me, but when I hit the gas I just didn't have the oomph. He ended up catching up to me while I was still accelerating. When getting to the Interstate, I really started to notice the difference. Had to floor it to accelerate up to speed to merge, then had to keep it more throttle than I'd have liked to keep the speed. Basically that was the situation the whole way home. My grandpa talked to his friend (head mechanic at a ford dealership) and he said it may be the fuel filter. It makes sense to me, I've never changed it and there's no telling how long it'd been since the guy before me changed it. So, what am I supposed to buy to replace my fuel filter? Quick search on the parts store's websites and I see two options. The first is a tiny yellow filter, kinda like an air filter for a carbed engine but tiny (best explanation I can think). The second is a canister shaped item with a nub on each side (for the fuel lines I presume). Which one do I need? Looking at my fuel filter in the driver side frame rail near the oil pan (?), it is the canister shaped bit.

 

[wildbill23c]

Could be a plugged catalytic converter. Loss of power is a good key to the cat being plugged. The fuel filter on my 88 B2 is in the frame rail on the driver's side up towards the front wheel maybe they moved them in the 89's.

 

[McWillies]

Could be a plugged catalytic converter. Loss of power is a good key to the cat being plugged. The fuel filter on my 88 B2 is in the frame rail on the driver's side up towards the front wheel maybe they moved them in the 89's.

I'm fairly sure it's not a clogged cat, I had it running good for the last 3 weeks or so (after changing plugs, wires, and fixing the timing), but just today it went back being slow as molasses. Fuel filter is the first thing I want to check, if that isn't it then I'll start investigating other things. Either way it probably needs a new fuel filter. Thanks for the help my friend.

 

[McWillies]

Been reading up on the fuel filter replacements so I'm not caught off guard. Have a few questions. Do I have two fuel filters, the canister and the cartridge type? I don't have the little push-pull type disconnects on my fuel lines at the filter. They are little plastic retaining clips, do I need a special tool for these? I imagine I could just spread the legs of it, freeing it, then pull it right out.

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[RayInStl]

Both do the same thing. The yellow one is just see-through so you can tell if it's clogged. The metal one would look similar if you cut it open.

I wonder if they failed to adequately tighten your distributor down after they did the timing. I would check the timing to start, since that's what it was before.

A word of caution: If the timing is off again, you could have a bearing in the distributor failing. I had this happen on my 83 2.3 Ranger and it ended up being the death of it. My distributor spun and the engine ran rough then died. I had just had the engine out to change gaskets and paint it, so I figured I had not tightened the hold-down bolt enough. So I redid the timing on the side of the road and took caution to make sure I tightened it well.

I didn't get another mile before it spun again, this time with a violent backfire. This time I could tell the distributor was shot so I got another at a parts store. When I started it up, it ran fine for a few minutes, but then made a terrible racket. After pulling the head, I found a piece of metal in the number 3 cylinder and it beat the hell out of the piston and marred the bore. My best guess is that the backfire had knocked something loose and it was sucked into the motor after I started it back up.

So inspect the distributor. Make sure there's no chirping sounds coming from it indicating bad bearings. It's not common, but it really bit me in the rear end.

 

[McWillies]

Welp, I got the new fuel filter in this morning. Doesn't seem to have made much of a difference. It might've gotten slightly better, but I'm not sure.
I'm stumped. I was really hoping it would be something easy like that, but I guess I'm not that lucky. I've been thinking about what might have changed yesterday and the days before. Only thing I can think is where I got my fuel, and the weather. Last two times I filled up I was at the same exxon station, which is a different station than I usually get my fuel. Not sure how the weather would've affected performance, but yesterday when it started acting up, it was cooler than it's been in months. Only 70° but still. Maybe I should go find my tin foil hat [emoji23]

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[McWillies]

Both do the same thing. The yellow one is just see-through so you can tell if it's clogged. The metal one would look similar if you cut it open.

I wonder if they failed to adequately tighten your distributor down after they did the timing. I would check the timing to start, since that's what it was before.

A word of caution: If the timing is off again, you could have a bearing in the distributor failing. I had this happen on my 83 2.3 Ranger and it ended up being the death of it. My distributor spun and the engine ran rough then died. I had just had the engine out to change gaskets and paint it, so I figured I had not tightened the hold-down bolt enough. So I redid the timing on the side of the road and took caution to make sure I tightened it well.

I didn't get another mile before it spun again, this time with a violent backfire. This time I could tell the distributor was shot so I got another at a parts store. When I started it up, it ran fine for a few minutes, but then made a terrible racket. After pulling the head, I found a piece of metal in the number 3 cylinder and it beat the hell out of the piston and marred the bore. My best guess is that the backfire had knocked something loose and it was sucked into the motor after I started it back up.

So inspect the distributor. Make sure there's no chirping sounds coming from it indicating bad bearings. It's not common, but it really bit me in the rear end.

Took it to the dealership to look at it but they won't be able to until next week sometime. Where might I find the yellow one? I changed the canister shaped one.
I'm sure they tightened the distributor down, that's why my timing was off in the first place. They said some bolt was snug, but not tight and that caused my timing to get off track.

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[RayInStl]

Ah. I understand now. I thought you were talking about one of these:

Now I think you might be talking about what's inside that? Otherwise, I'm not sure.

 

[McWillies]

Ah. I understand now. I thought you were talking about one of these:

Now I think you might be talking about what's inside that? Otherwise, I'm not sure.

It's similar to what's inside that, but slightly bigger. I read up on it and it's another smaller canister inside the frame rail farther back than the other. On some models the canister opens up and has a little filter in it with an o-ring. Some models don't have a filter at all in the canister. And some don't have the canister at all.

Attached a picture of the filter, but I can't find one of the canister that it goes in.
Found a picture of the canister. It's called a fuel filter cartridge I believe.

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[JerryC]

Follow the lines forward and you find the all metal fuel filter. It has a quick disconnect at each end. It's not too far from the canister. It's mounted inside the frame rail on my 88.

 

[McWillies]

Follow the lines forward and you find the all metal fuel filter. It has a quick disconnect at each end. It's not too far from the canister. It's mounted inside the frame rail on my 88.

That's the one I replaced. When I said canister I just meant the shape. Where is the one that I showed in the picture at and would it restrict fuel flow?

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