85 Ranger getting some teeth...

[85_Ranger4x4]

Ok, I can't really tell where the stud in (drivers side) in your pics. I do recall that one side will be close to the edge of the crossmember. That was one more reason why I added two extra bolts per side on mine, using the 3/8" holes in the mounts as guides.

It is between the steering box and the rag joint in the pic. It doesn't really look like a stud but it is, for some reason my camera wanted to focus on everything but it. It is in the corner closest to the camera.

Initially I thought I had them backwards so we switched them, and that mount fit almost as ugly on the other side. The Mustang's driver side mount fit just as good on the other side though. It is really close to being in line with factory V6 mount holes on both sides.

 

[Teddyzee]

Yes, those are my pics.

I think you'll find that once you drill and slot some holes, you will actually have no issue. (with your current mounts)The engine will drop considerably.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Yes, those are my pics.

I think you'll find that once you drill and slot some holes, you will actually have no issue. (with your current mounts)The engine will drop considerably.

Right now the DS is sitting on the mount because the stud pretty much missed the crossmember.

It isn't that the engine is too high or anything, it is too far ahead even with it up against the firewall. But it will not go any farther back...

I know the crossmember is different in some way between 2wd and 4wd, surely I am not the first 4wd guy to try these mounts?

 

[hddave1]

im just asking because i will be doing this v8 conversion to my 2wd 85 ranger..can you move the mount that missed the cross member to the center or even offset it alittle so you can drill and mount it and make a plate drilled to match the engine and motor mount..maybe pull the engine away from the firewall about a 1/2 inch.. or and im just asking but could that mount be welded to the cross member..when i do my conversion , i think i will use the 2.9 engine mounts and make 1/4'' plates drilled to match the best position for the engine.. maybe mod the firewall...just asking

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

im just asking because i will be doing this v8 conversion to my 2wd 85 ranger..can you move the mount that missed the cross member to the center or even offset it alittle so you can drill and mount it and make a plate drilled to match the engine and motor mount..maybe pull the engine away from the firewall about a 1/2 inch.. or and im just asking but could that mount be welded to the cross member..when i do my conversion , i think i will use the 2.9 engine mounts and make 1/4'' plates drilled to match the best position for the engine.. maybe mod the firewall...just asking

For this particular swap I think two DS Mustang mounts are the ticket. This truck always has been a rebel.

So far it seems everybody else gets along fine with just the Mustang mounts swapped side to side, although it doesn't sound that uncommon for the drivers side mount to be close to the front of the crossmember.

I wouldn't weld in a mount, it would make it kinda tough to change down the road.

On a different note, where would be a good place to start for spark plugs? With Duraspark and a carb it is a much different setup than it had originally in '87, but with a 4bbl and respectable compression it is also a much different setup than they had back in the DS/carb days in the late 70's.

 

[5.0]

My stubby little 4x4 C5 slipped right in, almost easier than the 2.8/A4LD came out, I also had the front tires about flat.

Another trick for putting the engine in with the transmission attached is to jack the rear of the truck as high as possible and support the rear axle with jack stands, then lower the engine in and use a floor jack under the transmission to level things out once it gets in. I was able to drop in my 5.0 HO with complete FEAD and AOD with no problems.


.

 

[5.0]

For this particular swap I think two DS Mustang mounts are the ticket. This truck always has been a rebel.

So far it seems everybody else gets along fine with just the Mustang mounts swapped side to side, although it doesn't sound that uncommon for the drivers side mount to be close to the front of the crossmember.

.

I had similar problems on my first swap and was thinking it would be easier to use two of the same mount, which I may do on my current swap.

I also have some '73 to '79 F150 mounts which didn't seem to work well, but I can't remember what the problem was. I may try them again just because I'm curious about what problem I had that I can't remember.


.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Another trick for putting the engine in with the transmission attached is to jack the rear of the truck as high as possible and support the rear axle with jack stands, then lower the engine in and use a floor jack under the transmission to level things out once it gets in. I was able to drop in my 5.0 HO with complete FEAD and AOD with no problems.


.

I thought about that, but we didn't have to. Not sure if I had to the front tires, but went ahead and pulled the cores while I was waiting for my help to show up.

I had similar problems on my first swap and was thinking it would be easier to use two of the same mount, which I may do on my current swap.

Glad to hear I am not the only one that has fought this, that other mount fit both sides like a dream.

Mount came in, headers came in... I am behind yet again.

 

[rednine4]

Thanks for documenting the progress so well..... I will be posting a build thread coming up here in the next month or so... just prepping the body and frame in the meantime and finishing up rounding up parts.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I got the crossmember notched and engine set down in there. Looks great from the top, down below I have about 1/8" between the rear sump drain plug and the passenger side traction beam pivot bracket... ideas?

I tried two washers between the crossmember and the mount, didn't really seem to do a heck of a lot. The only other thing I can think of is to start shimming between the mount and the block...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Tried 1/2" of washers between the mounts and block along with the two washers between the crossmember and mount... still nothing. Investigated farther and found DS of the oil pan is bottoming out against the crossmember. Moved all four washers to the DS to try to kick the engine over to the other side and little to no change.

If I did it again I would use the V6 mounts and plates, at least then you could adjust them up and down the crossmember for height. These have no adjustability aside from stuffing vast amounts of shim material between parts.

Engine is pretty much centered side to side (as you let it down it tries to center itself) and the base of the DS valve cover is a long 1/2" from the firewall.

 

[Teddyzee]

Yes, it's much easier and more effective
to shim at the block. I forgot I had put
a shim or two on the crossmember.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Yes, it's much easier and more effective
to shim at the block. I forgot I had put
a shim or two on the crossmember.

Which way did you have to shim yours?

Even though it is centered between the fenders mine is hitting on the DS of the oil pan and I don't think I have enough room to get the drain plug out. Clearancewise I need to go up and to the passenger side.

I pulled my DS mount out to compare with what everybody else has used, they both look like they project out from the block the same amount, but the drivers side Mustang mount looks to have a steeper angle between the mounting tabs and the pad... which I think would help.

 

[Teddyzee]

I shimmed the driver side slightly, like one
washer, between the mount and the crossmember.
This was only for looks.
The 2wd trucks have no clearance issues
With the oil pan.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Well I think I got it in there.

What I did was I left the washers between the block and mounts and lifted it up until I was happy with how things were downstairs and noted what needed to happen upstairs. DS mount didn't move, PS mount was 1/2" off the crossmember. I got some more washers and tested it to see how it looked with weight on the mounts... perfect. So I went digging thru the scrap bin and found a 1/2"x3" hung of steel with a hole in it even, trimmed it down and it fit perfect. I hit with some black paint to cover up the orange (Allis-Chalmers steel in my truck, an unexpected bonus )

I stuck the valve covers on to see how the heater box fit (it didn't) and I couldn't contain myself, I had to throw the carb and aircleaner. Depending on the timing works out, that aircleaner won't work with the big Duraspark distributor cap.

I got the tranny crossmember set in place, I knew it was going to be close but I was able to use existing holes on the passenger side (I wasn't trying to) The frame narrows slightly up there, so I had to shorten up the crossmember to fit there. I still need to drill a new hole in the DS of the crossmember.