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8 Spark Plugs


i just found the motorcraft spark plugs for my truck on amazon for about $3.50 each. and shipping is anly about $5. my total was a little over $33 shipped to my door. definitly cheaper than the $6.99 ive been seeing per plug
 
8 spark plugs

Just did my intake side on my 94 this afternoon. I used extensions, but no swivels. No intake removal of any kind.
Use an old spark plug wire without the metal clip inside to start your plugs without cross threading them. Once enough threads are taken you just pop the wire off of the plug and get your socket and seventy two feet of extensions.
Oh, then you tighten them...but not too much.
If your truck is like mine, you will be back. These trucks don't go away quietly. 250,00 plus and starting on a new block today. :icon_cheers:
 
Although I've thought about it, I've never removed the intake on my '94 2.3. Just use the socket and extension. A couple of other things I do that I haven't read here is I use anti-seize on the threads and silicone dielectric lube inside the boots. Boots go back much easier and makes the next time around (and it will happen) go better plus helps to keep the skin on:yahoo:.
 
I too have never removed my manifold. I can get my hand in there to get the plug hand tight and not cross threaded and get in there with a jointed extension and no problems for me.
 
when i did mine when i first got the truck i removed my manifold, and had to make the gasket since nobody had one. one thing i noticed and was pissed about was the fact that all my intake runners from the throttlebody down were black inside. going to order an entire intake gasket set and bust out the dremel and do some mild porting/polishing on my vacation...XD btw 8 plugs make for a more complete burn of the fuel in the chamber, they also swirl arranged the ports instead of bathtub chamber like a 302. the extra swirl of the air/fuel helps increase cylinder filling at low rpms helping the torque number. thats why even tho the 2.3 is over square (3.78 bore x 3.125 stroke) which is usually for a high horse application it boosts the low rpm torque number (100hp and 130 ft lbs in my 92.)
 
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when i changed mine i just poped them in a old 1/4 hose and then threaded them on then pulled the hose off. it worked amazingly well for those driver side plugs. just hope i didn't cross thread them...lol
 
when i changed mine i just poped them in a old 1/4 hose and then threaded them on then pulled the hose off. it worked amazingly well for those driver side plugs. just hope i didn't cross thread them...lol

i do that all the time here at work on deep plug holes (vt750/vt600/xv17/xv19 motorcycles, crf and yzf dirtbikes and yfz450/trx450r/400ex atvs) works like a charm dont it?
 
you can usually tell right away if you cross thread anything. INSANELY HARD TO TURN so if they went in about as easy as they came out then you didnt cross thread them
 
Ive changed all 8 in mine without removing anything except the plastic intake tube on the passenger side to make it a little easier. For the drivers side i use i think its either a four or six inch extension hooked to the socket, and either another six inch hooked to that or a universal in between the two. I dont have too much problem gettin the plugs in and out, but as stated previously, the fuel rail really gets in the way tryin to get the boots back on when your working on the back 2 drivers side.
 
Wah! Wah! Wah! - 1969 Ford Thunderbird Landau 429 Thunderjet, Last 2 plugs nearest the firewall either lift the motor or cut holes in the inner fender.
 
first gen toyota tundra had to be redesigned, the owners manual said remove the engine from the frame to change the plugs, plug wires were next to the framerails from the bottom. ill take the 429 with holes in the fenders.
 
well...... i noticed everyone said "did it just fine on my ... 94 , 99, and so on" I attempted on my 89 ranger.
Got the ones on the passenger fine, new plugs and wires... but then on the drivers side ... could not get the wire off the plug nearest to the fan ... or the one near the firewall.... i am at a lost what to do point... i do have a swivled socket, a 6 in extension, a 10 in extention and probably need a spark plug wire puller i guess i just dont see how i am going to do this with out making it a 2 hour project :(
 
One suggestion for you. If you're going to work the plugs without removing the intake manifold, make sure you use anti-seize (or whatever that stuff is called) on the boots so that they come off easier next time. Otherwise, the plug wires under the intake can be a pain to remove due to clearance problems. Nothing like stuck rubber to get you pissed off really quick!
 
All you need are four things to change all 8 plugs.....
long handled spark wire pliers
Long and short extension
Universal elbow
ratchet.

No pulling the intake or taking the hood off.
Why make things overly complicated ?
 
On my 2000 2.5 I find it easier to remove the upper intake manifold.
Once the upper intake is removed you then have access to those two coolant hoses that run to the intake and then down into the block. Make plans to replace those with 1/4 ID heater hose. Also Ford recommends replacing the PCV every 60,000 so throw one of those in as well.
My first set of plugs were ford, from the factory and I got about 100,000 before replacing. THose plugs were double Platnums. Ford apparently no longer makes double P's for that truck and recommended a single Platnum plug. I install those and replaced them at 60,000 and they looked like crap. This time around I used double platnum Autolites so hopefully they will last to 100,000.
You need a new gasket for the EGR and the upper intake when all done.
 

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