4.0 SOHC head gaskets/timing chains

[SenorNoob]

Use a little teflon tape to make the nut stay in the wrench/socket better is often useful. If you can see the studs from the starter hole I'd paper tape the nut in a short socket (Stuff a little something in before the nut to hold it all the way out.) and cut out just enough to get to the threads.

 

[JJMaine]

That's a good idea Ill try that. I wouldn't be so nervous if I knew it were easy to get them out with a magnet if I drop one.

I'll try the paper tape method and stuff a rag under it while I do it

 

[SenorNoob]

With the bellhousing being aluminum it shouldn't be to hard to drag a magnet through for some fishing if ya have to.

 

[JJMaine]

Let's hope not but it wouldn't be the first time

 

[JJMaine]

Do you guys vacuum full the cooling system or does the Ranger do just fine with the traditional fill it up and run it with the rad cap off to bleed the system?

Also, how long should I crank the engine over to build oil pressure? I'm a ways off from that point but figured I'd ask while I'm thinking of it

 

[Uncle Gump]

I wouldn't use clear flood mode... I'd pull the fuel pump rely. Make sure battery is up... been sitting for a bit... crank it a couple three times for 3 or 4 seconds. Should be plenty. Put the realy back in... fire it up.

I can't say I've ever vacuum filled a ranger coo,ing system.

 

[JJMaine]

Im going to pull the relay for sure. I checked my tps reading when I had my scan tool plugged in and the tps only showed 92% throttle with the pedal pushed all the way down (I have done the zip tie trick on the throttle cable). I'm worried if I go full throttle and turn the key something bad might happen haha.

 

[JJMaine]

Downhill slope now I think. Ran out of daylight but I got the bell housing bolts all in, torque converter nuts torqued on, everything bolted to back of cylinder heads and O2 sensors plugged back in, starter on and intake manifold. The rest of the work is in the engine bay and maybe through the wheel wells but no more climbing underneath!

Next weekend it should be an early Christmas for me

Not much different to look at under here but some work was accomplished today:

 

[JJMaine]

Does the end of the starter shoot out to engage the flexplate like on my snowmobile starter? I was just expecting to have to finagle it so the teeth line up but the starter dropped right in with no effort. I'm guessing that's normal and makes more sense to me than having the teeth engaged full time?

Also had a bit of a scare with the top Starter bolt. I threaded it in most of the way easily with just my fingertips due to the hard access past the front differential so I know it wasn't cross threaded. But I put my 1/4" ratchet on it (all that will fit up there) and the bolt got very tight. Tried backing it out and it got even tighter.

After pooping my pants and stomping my feet a little I went and got some PB blaster and shot some in the back of the threaded hole (thank god it isn't a blind hole) and then the bolt turned in fine with my little ratchet. Didn't dare try to take it out or mess with it so I tightened it up and called it good. Hopefully my starter lasts a lot longer lol.

The only thing I can think of is the temp difference and dissimilar metals between the bell housing and the bolts? Bell housing was maybe 20 degrees outside temp and the bolts were in my warm shop and then in my pants pocket while I climbed under the truck. I remember taking those bolts out, once they were both cracked free they came out by hand easily. Hopefully no debris got in there and mucked up the threads but I don't think so. I covered the end of the transmission with a garbage bag as soon as I took the engine out...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The starter shoots out.

 

[JJMaine]

Awesome thanks.

 

[Uncle Gump]

When you turn the key... the starter solenoid is energized. This pulls the plunger in which throws the starter gear into the ring gear. When the plunger bottoms out... the contacts close to supply power/current to the motor and it spins.

 

[JJMaine]

Aha that makes sense. After I posted that I thought about it and I was thinking of a motorcycle starter where the teeth stay engaged but the sprag clutch allows the gears to spin freely while the engine is running. Obviously my truck doesn't have a sprag clutch

Starter on the brain because that bolt worries me. Going to put it out of my mind and cross that bridge when the starter goes out lol.