4.0 SOHC head gaskets/timing chains

[JJMaine]

Do I have to run it until the thermostat opens before I can fit more coolant in it?

 

[JJMaine]

I let run up to temp but it just keeps dribbling coolant out of the radiator? A few bubbles but mostly coolant. I have the heater on full blast as well.

 

[SenorNoob]

Sounds like it's full then. Fill the expansion tank, take it for a drive to get everything warmed up to temp, then let it set long enough to completely cool down.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yes, the fluid is expanding with temperature change.

 

[Uncle Gump]

You the man JJ...

I just want to commend you. You took it right to the problem... stared it right in the eye... and it took your whoopin.

Let her warm up a few times... double check fluids. Do a couple short trips... double check things... then just drive like a boomer.

 

[JJMaine]

Couldn't have done it without you guys I thank you all. For that matter all of the guys on this thread are the ones that have helped me and answered my questions from day one. If I'm not mistaken, Uncle Gump was the first one to respond to my first question (probably a dumb question haha).

I gave the upper radiator hose a few squishes and that seemed to wake it up. Sucked down a few more quarts after that and then equalized. I'll do as you say and keep checking and filling as necessary.

 

[JJMaine]

You are basically looking to prime the system. So, don't over think it. If you oiled things while you assembled them, even if the priming isn't effective, you should have enough protection from the assembly oil to minimize any potential damage to the bearings.

Regardless, there is always going to be some break in wear on a rebuild and you are going to want to change the oil and filter pretty quickly after first start. About 200 - 500 miles. Again at 1,000 miles. Again at 3,000 miles. Then go to standard oil changes. You don't want to cheap out on oil filters for this either. Get the oil filter with the smallest micron filtering you can if you don't normally use such filters. K&N, Purolator Pure One or Boss, Mobile 1, and a few others generally are going to be the finest you can get. Motorcraft should be good as well. After the break in, you can run whatever filter you like.

I used Motorcraft oil and filter. I will probably change the oil a bit sooner than normal and probably going to go to 3,000 mile intervals instead of 5,000 considering how much sludge was in my oil pan. Not sure that was my fault though, I think one of the previous owners was a little slack.

 

[sgtsandman]

I used Motorcraft oil and filter. I will probably change the oil a bit sooner than normal and probably going to go to 3,000 mile intervals instead of 5,000 considering how much sludge was in my oil pan. Not sure that was my fault though, I think one of the previous owners was a little slack.

A thing to consider, not that there is anything wrong with using Motorcraft oil and filters. Auto parts stores sell synthetic oil and usually a good filter as a package for a pretty decent price. Some even offer the Motorcraft filter as an option in the package now.

Synthetic blend tends to not have a significant advantage over pure conventional oil. Motorcraft oil filters are just as good as K&N, Purolator Pure One or Boss, and Mobil 1 filters. So, it's a zero gain or loss there.

The engine was designed with a synthetic blend in mind. So there is no harm in running it, but you may be able to get the on sale synthetic cheaper and keep the engine internals cleaner going that route.

 

[JJMaine]

I order my oil and filters from Rock Auto because it's so cheap. Even with shipping it cost almost half as much for Motorcraft oil and filters per oil change (if you order 2 or 3 oil changes worth at a time). I'll have to see what they have on there for full synthetic. I'm not against using it. I've just always used Motorcraft because I'm lazy and it takes all of the thinking out of it.

 

[Shran]

Well done! Glad to hear it's all back together and running.

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks! Just went for a short drive and all seems good driving wise. Little wobbly on the brakes from sitting and being crusty and also the tires being frozen into the ground for a couple months In sure

The only thing so far I've noticed is that I only have defrost no matter what I put the selector to. Like the doors won't switch? I'm not familiar with that stuff as I haven't had to fix it yet lol. Is that a coolant issue or a selector switch issue? Getting great heat, it just all comes out of the defrost up by the windshield (better than nothing for the winter though)

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'm not too sure, I believe that is the default setting. So if you're controls are operated by vacuum, I would suspect a disconnected line or leak.

 

[JJMaine]

I did break the end off of the little vacuum line that plugs into the ball on the fender. I fished the broken end out and plugged it back in with a zip tie but maybe that isn't sealing perfectly. Did try to see if that vacuum was available cheap but couldn't find it.

It's the one that plugs into the drivers side valve cover, PCV, EGR and over to the fender ball.

Also just wrestled with the fender ball this morning when putting my inner fenders on so maybe something came undone I'll have a look. Thanks!

 

[Uncle Gump]

I believed floored nailed it.

Without proper vacuum... you lose those controls.

 

[JJMaine]

I guess if that's my biggest issue then I'll be happy.

Ill take a look in the manual and see if I can find all of the vacuum lines for the heater and inspect them