2021 Ford Ranger FX4 TRS-3 Project Build

[sgtsandman]

Thanks @sgtsandman

I suspected it was the violet and gray. Can you get the diagram for the buttons in the console? That’s actually the easiest place to get the wire from.

With todays systems (CAN bus), I wonder if the truck will detect a problem if I tap in to the wire for the dash lighting?

This is the closest I could get. C3513 is the connector for the buttons that control Trail Control, Start/Stop, and the Rear Locker. They call it the Upper Multifunction Switch.

The Lower Multifunction switch has the buttons that control Tow/Haul Mode, Parking sensors, and Traction Control.

C3531 is the shift selector lever.

I think this will get you what you want. Let me know if I need to do more digging.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Switch Panel Installation:

​

To begin installation, you need to pull the lower trim panels off from both sides. They pull straight back

​

You'll find a screw of both sides that holds the panel the 12V outlets are in.

​

With those removed you can remove the panel by pulling straight back. There are (3) plastic clips that hold it in place. See the photo below.

​

Next, remove the plugs for the 12V outlets. I used a small screwdriver and pushed down and back on the tab to slide the plug off.

​

Next, locate the (2) plastic tabs inside of the12V outlets and push them up as you wiggle the socket to get it loose.

​

Next, side the metal socket out of the front of the outlet, and then remove the outlet cover.

​

Reinstall them into the new panel in the reverse order. Note that the socket is keyed (notched) to only go in one way.

​

I used a Wire Insertion Tool to insert wires through the edge of the rubber boot in the firewall where the wiring harness passes through. I love this tool. Just push the tip through the rubber boot and feed the wire through the handle.

(Wire Insertion Tool - Click Here)

​

You can see in the pic above that I connected all of the red wires to one wire. That wire runs to the auxiliary 12V fuse block I added on the passenger side kick panel. This wire will provide power to the switches. When the switches are turned on, they send this power to a replay that sends power to the lights.

All of the black wires go to a single black ground wire.

I used the wiring from the left side 12V outlet to power the USB charging port.

All of the blue wires go to a single blue wire that will illuminate the switches when the dash lights are on.

The green wires were labeled with blue painters' tape and connect to individual wires that lead to a relay for that particular light.

​

You have to re-use the white plastic clips from the factory panel on this new panel.

When installing, make sure the wires clear these clips and none of them are getting pinched anywhere.

I actually struggled a little to get this panel to snap in place. Probably from all of the wire behind it.

The side panels were a pain in the butt to get to snap in place as well.

I love the finished look of it. It looks like it came from the factory like this.

​

Link:

For anyone interested, you can purchase this panel at:

AIR ON BOARD (AOB) - FORD Panel for Ranger PX2 PX3

It takes the 900 Series Switches forund here:

AIR ON BOARD (AOB) - Toyota Push Switches - Switches - Products

They're labelled as light blue Toyota switches.

 

[Jim Oaks]

I took the TRS-3 Ford Ranger down to the Red River. I took some stock pics down there in the spring. Here's some current pics of the Ranger with the lift and tires.

(The above picture is actually in the middle of the river. The water is really low this time of year)

 

[Curious Hound]

Switch Panel Installation:

View attachment 99514
​

To begin installation, you need to pull the lower trim panels off from both sides. They pull straight back

View attachment 99515
​

You'll find a screw of both sides that holds the panel the 12V outlets are in.

View attachment 99516View attachment 99517View attachment 99518
​

With those removed you can remove the panel by pulling straight back. There are (3) plastic clips that hold it in place. See the photo below.

View attachment 99531
​

Next, remove the plugs for the 12V outlets. I used a small screwdriver and pushed down and back on the tab to slide the plug off.

View attachment 99520
​

Next, locate the (2) plastic tabs inside of the12V outlets and push them up as you wiggle the socket to get it loose.

View attachment 99521
​

Next, side the metal socket out of the front of the outlet, and then remove the outlet cover.

View attachment 99522View attachment 99523
​

Reinstall them into the new panel in the reverse order. Note that the socket is keyed (notched) to only go in one way.

View attachment 99524View attachment 99525
​

I used a Wire Insertion Tool to insert wires through the edge of the rubber boot in the firewall where the wiring harness passes through. I love this tool. Just push the tip through the rubber boot and feed the wire through the handle.

View attachment 99532
(Wire Insertion Tool - Click Here)

View attachment 99526

View attachment 99533
​

You can see in the pic above that I connected all of the red wires to one wire. That wire runs to the auxiliary 12V fuse block I added on the passenger side kick panel. This wire will provide power to the switches. When the switches are turned on, they send this power to a replay that sends power to the lights.

All of the black wires go to a single black ground wire.

I used the wiring from the left side 12V outlet to power the USB charging port.

All of the blue wires go to a single blue wire that will illuminate the switches when the dash lights are on.

The green wires were labeled with blue painters' tape and connect to individual wires that lead to a relay for that particular light.

View attachment 99528
​

You have to re-use the white plastic clips from the factory panel on this new panel.

When installing, make sure the wires clear these clips and none of them are getting pinched anywhere.

I actually struggled a little to get this panel to snap in place. Probably from all of the wire behind it.

The side panels were a pain in the butt to get to snap in place as well.

I love the finished look of it. It looks like it came from the factory like this.

View attachment 99529View attachment 99530
View attachment 99534
​

Link:

For anyone interested, you can purchase this panel at:

AIR ON BOARD (AOB) - FORD Panel for Ranger PX2 PX3

It takes the 900 Series Switches forund here:

AIR ON BOARD (AOB) - Toyota Push Switches - Switches - Products

They're labelled as light blue Toyota switches.

Nicely done and good write up. That panel makes a real clean installation.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

This thread just sold me a new tool I never knew I needed...

 

[Curious Hound]

This thread just sold me a new tool I never knew I needed...

Make sure you post it in the new tools purchased thread when you get it.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I seriously doubt

This thread just sold me a new tool I never knew I needed...

I ordered one of those last night... 30% off coupon too.

 

[Jim Oaks]

I love that tool. I use to poke a hole with a screwdriver and then try to force the wire through. Sometimes making the hole and them having trouble even getting the wire into it. It's amazing how easy this is. You can even stick a few 14-16 GA wires through at one time.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I love that tool. I use to poke a hole with a screwdriver and then try to force the wire through. Sometimes making the hole and them having trouble even getting the wire into it. It's amazing how easy this is. You can even stick a few 14-16 GA wires through at one time.

Beats stabbing it with a knife twice and wondering whats lurking on the back side.

 

[Curious Hound]

I bet I have some small brass tubing I could use to make one.

 

[sgtsandman]

This thread just sold me a new tool I never knew I needed...

Same. I never knew such a tool existed.

 

[Jim Oaks]

TRS-3 2021 Ford Ranger Bed Rack:

Youve already seen the TRS-3 Ford Ranger with the bed rack installed, but here's the details.

I started with a pair of Elevate Outdoor Truck Bed Crossbars I got from Amazon for $150.00. They have an 800 lb capacity. The cross section slides into the end pieces and bolts together.

​

The bars are held in place by j-hooks held in place by bolts.

​

Then I added an Arksen heavy-duty cargo basket that I got off of Amazon for $150.00 as well. It has a 150 lb capacity. I picked this one because it was the right dimensions to fit across the back of the bed behind the tool box.

The baskets hardware is designed to mount to a cross bar. My bars are going the right way, but I'm mounting the backet sideways, not longways.

To make it work I used 2" x 3" square U-bolts along with metal straps. I slid the mounts against the crossbars, drilled through the mounts, slid the u-bolts through, and bolted it all together. I used the metal straps to secure the u-bolts to the mounts, and used nuts and lock washers sandwiched between the metal straps otherwise the bottom of the strap would just keep bending back under the crossbar.

The shovel on the side is secured to one of the flat metal plates on the side of the basket and is held in place by a pair of quick fists. I also used a u-bolt over the shovel handle to keep it from accidentally blowing off going down the interstate. I remove the u-bolt when I'm going to be on the trail so I can grab it out of the quick fist when I need it. I don't think I like the shovel here and have thought about moving it to the inside of the bed.

​

Next up, bed lighting.

 

[Blmpkn]

It saddens me that we don't get to see a hole dug by the shovel. Looks like mighty easy diggin' right there too..

 

[Fast Eddie]

I see what you did there

 

[sgtsandman]

It's probably just me but I would have the shovel oriented the other way. I'm sure it doesn't make a difference but I would have the shovel head facing forward. It seems like it would be less likely to get things caught between the shovel and the basket.