2000 4 cyl 2.5L Ford Ranger Trying to remove cylinder head

[4b316]

Are any of the yards a you-pull-it?that would be the best way.Most of them have a money back or exchange.If you are willing to try,just get a used head and put it on your block.If you think it is worth your time,have your bottom end checked.While you are at the yard ,check on the price of a complete engine,maybe you will want to go that way.I can pull a complete motor at my local you- pull it for $99.99 plus tax plus $25 core

 

[johnrhadfield]

To 4b316:

About a month ago City Motor Supply(Dallas/San Antonio) said 1000 something for a rebuilt engine(core exchange) with a 6 month warranty. I have to supply a good cyl hd. Then they'd put it together. They said that cyl hd is popular.

About 3 weeks ago a mechanic I know said he found a used Ranger engine in for about 700. He wanted me to pay a good amount to install it though.

You say $99.99 plus tax and plus $25 core to pull and engine at a "u-pull-it"? That is an entire used engine for 99.99$ + 25$= 124.99 plus tax$ for a new used engine?

One possibilty is to tow my Ranger to a u-pull-it once I find a suitable engine. Then rent an engine puller? Or they have one there? Pull my engine, do the exchange, drive/tow back to the house, wire up connector details later?

How far am I from pulling the engine now? I have mount bolts and transmission bolts. I know I have to be careful of not breaking O2 sensors. (Once saw someone use cyl hd bolt holes to raise an engine out.)

(Sidenote - I guess its possible oil pump is bad. I always thought it was just the flaky guage acting faulty. The oil pressure guage went from no reading erratically to full pressure. Then no reading. It did that for about 3 to 4 years. Engine ran fine.)

Another possibility is going to Engine Pro and have them rebuild a used cyl hd for 450. First I have to tow my Ranger there early one morning and leave it, for them to check the block before they rebuild the cyl hd. Although, I may have a different mechanic shop test the block.

Actually, time is on my side. The 3rd possibility is I could scout out Clarks tommorrow and see what they have to offer for cyl hds. And learn a little more. I was working on a different issue and ran into a mechanic at Autozone that said he could rebuild a good cyl hd in 20 minutes.

If 4b316 can get a whole used motor for 124$, I sure feel like I have a lot more to learn when I am probably going to pay 450$ + 65$(block check/leakdown test).

Who knows the block may be bad. I may need a new used engine anyhow.

Thanks,

John

 

[Duane867]

To Duane867:

What specifically led you to imagine that scenario?

Everything 4b316 has said has lined up with reality as fact.

Just the knowledge I have Iearned alone is "good" already and disproves your "no good can come of this".

John

I'm sorry guy, I was just being funny.


Seriously though, you are NOT going to find a 2.5L or a 2.3L engine in working order at a u-pull-n-pay style junk yard for $99 and a $25 core thats in full working order. Any junkyard for that matter. They are just to sought after for spare parts. If you find one its going to be trashed, I can just about guarantee you of that. They just don't die, but when they do they do it in spectacular fashion.
They also drill holes in the oil pan the day they receive them. You have to remember John they are in the junkyard for a reason. You never know the reason ( and neither does the junk yard ) until you tear into it. It may have a cracked block, cracked cylinder wall , thrown rod.. anything. They are also not going to allow you to remove your old engine and cradle the new on their property for the core. They all usually have a strict policy on auto repair on their lots by the customer just like auto zone and all the parts stores have.

If you go used then go to a yard that specializes in "take off parts". They check the mileage, abuse, all that crap and price the engine accordingly as well as offer warranty accordingly. But again, you ain't getting a good engine for $125 bucks.

If you really love your truck, the body and interior and transmission are in great shape then I would look into buying a complete reman including head off the net and having it shipped to a business. Pick it up there load it in a friends truck and install it at home. Other wise pay to have the head and block checked out then have the head rebuilt or the whole engine top to bottom.

 

[4b316]

John,we have bought 2 motor from our local u pull it.One,a 454 chevy out of a 78 ton truck and a dodge dakota v6.One had a bad head and took it back and got another.We get,manifold,intakes and all brackets.You don't starter,carb,alternator and such.We are pretty lucky to have a good u pullit and there are 3 within 90 miles of us set up by the same guy.(next week they are on the weekly sales slip for $75)I agree with Duane,they ar not going to let you pull it there in the yard to exchange,you would have to rent a engine puller and pull your engine to take there.A lot of ways to go,repair your motor,go to a yard to get one or get one from a good engine builder.Consider your cost and time vs just walking away and getting another truck.

 

[4b316]

Here is a price list from the u pull it.When I need a motor ,I usaully look for one that has been in a wreck http://superpageshosting.com/vincesupullitcom/2002prices/view.nhtml?profile=2002prices&UID=43

 

[johnrhadfield]

Well I think I need to put this on temp hold. My other vehicle(only one running) is running rough with a P0300 P0172 P0175 P0134. I think it's the fuel injector spider. 300$ for a new one.

In any case, I found a couple used Ranger engines pretty cheap at a yard. They offer a 90 day warranty if a real mechanic(one listed) puts it in. Or I can do it myself with no warranty.

I may go the used engine way. However, I feel confident Engine Pro can finish this cyl hd work correctly.

Until I can get back to my Ranger(in the driveway) I think I will cover the block with an oily towel and fill block with oil. Then I will place cyl hd and box of oily parts under an oily towel also. Will the rust finish off the cyl head if it is not submersed in oil?

Any suggestions on storage until I can get back to Ranger?

Thank y'all,

John

 

[Duane867]

Nope, just keep it away from moisture. DO NOT pour oil on top of your pistons or fill the block with oil. Just sit the head back on the block , stuff rags in the exhaust and intake ports and walk away. It'll be fine. I'm glad you found an engine.
But for the love of God man please pay the mechanic to install it your scaring me ~

Think one thing through...... if you pay a mechanic to install a junk yard motor for you and its junk... you pay him to remove and install another one as well. You really need to find a yard that specializes in what are known as take off parts. They specialize in good used parts only and scrap the rest.



What the hell is a fuel injector spider ?

 

[johnrhadfield]

To Duane687:

Do you mean by "specializes in take off parts" that they offer a guarentee/warranty?

Thanks

To the Forum:

Well I unfortunately as I said before I need to put Ranger on hold while I fix other truck.

Still not sure about new/used engine or just having cyl hd repaired. I heard that most cyl hd (motor shops) just weld the cracks.

I took cyl hd back to Engine Pro so they can store it for now. Engine Pro said the just spray WD-40 inside engine Block and throw oily towel over it.

Other than measuring for a 1/8th difference in the Pistons is there anything else I can do to check the blocks?

Could I pour water in the water jackets to see if it leaks to bottom of pan?

John

 

[4b316]

You could try that but acrack usaully doesn't show up till it builds up pressure.If you have any difference in piston height,you have a problem.You can get a "T" mike and set it across the cyl. and measure each piston stroke.There might be a couple thousandths difference,but thats it.1/32th inch takes you into bad rod or main bearings.Very little sideways movement of the piston in the cyl..Very little ridge at the top of the cyl.I don't like to be able to catch my fingernail on the ridge.

 

[Duane867]

If you had a brand new engine, ran it 10,000 miles and tore it down for a rebuild you would more then likely have to use a ridge reamer to get the pistons out unless it was a fully balanced and blueprinted race engine IMHO.

John,
Take off parts are GOOD used parts taken off wrecked vehicles. Their engines and transmissions usually come with warranty. Even though the Junk yard have a 30 to 90 day warranty, they have no idea what shape the engine is in before hand because the chances on it never running since the day it was junked ( or the day before until you go there ) are super high so they have no idea never having heard it run. Take off parts are usually tested. Including engines and transmissions. They run the engines on a stand, and check transmissions for end play, gasket seals, and electrical functions. They do this because thats how they make their bread and butter. Junkyards do it by scrap and odd ball parts. Not usually from entire set ups that are ready to roll.
You can obviously do what ever you wish because its your truck, but personally I would let them check the block and head out and go from there. If the block is good pay the man to rebuild the head and install it.

 

[johnrhadfield]

To 4b316 and Duane687:

I took the cyl hd back to Engine Pro, even though I still have this on pause until I replace the fuel injector spider (8 fuel injectors connected to fuel meter body looks like a "spider"), on my other truck.

I sprayed WD-40 all over cylinders and top of block and placed towels over the top of block. (Per Engine Pro).

As I said before, they want to check the block.

I heard that the block needs to be "boiled out"? Is that for complete tear down of the block? Or is there a way to open up "oil galleries"/plugs and clean inside engine while still in the truck?

Ideally, I'd like to rent a storage and tear it down so I know how to "fix everything", but that I would probably have to buy more expensive tools.

So I think I'll have Engine Pro check the block and rebuild cyl hd. Just as soon as I get my other truck 99%. (Maybe this weekend)

Thanks,

John

 

[Duane867]

Sounds like they want to tear down the engine to bare block, dip it and bake it to check for cracks. NOT A GOOD SIGN of a company not trying to rip you off if engine pro told you that 1st thing out of the gate with out mentioning compression checks or simpler means 1st. If you heard that on the net or from a friend thats one thing but if a company told you that 1st thing then take it some where else pronto. ( Unless ther eis more then your telling us there would be no earthly reason to tear the block down with out doing a few simple tests 1st.)
There is a way to clean galleys and such with the engine still in the truck but the truck has to be in running order 1st.



Now......
Fuel injector spider ? You mean the wire harness leading to each fuel injector ?
What is the year make model and engine size of the truck with this problem ?

 

[johnrhadfield]

Sounds like they want to tear down the engine to bare block, dip it and bake it to check for cracks. NOT A GOOD SIGN of a company not trying to rip you off if engine pro told you that 1st thing out of the gate with out mentioning compression checks or simpler means 1st. If you heard that on the net or from a friend thats one thing but if a company told you that 1st thing then take it some where else pronto. (Unless ther eis more then your telling us there would be no earthly reason to tear the block down with out doing a few simple tests 1st.)There is a way to clean galleys and such with the engine still in the truck but the truck has to be in running order 1st.

That is really just what I was wanting to do to be thorough after trying to read up and wanting to do as much of it myself as possible.

Now......Fuel injector spider ? You mean the wire harness leading to each fuel injector ?What is the year make model and engine size of the truck with this problem ?

That is correct. 1997 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 4wd. My error codes were P0300(random cylinder misfire) P0172(too rich) P0175(too rich) P0134(bank 1 O2 sensor 1).

I changed spark plugs and wires(and tightened a slightly stripped distributor cap screw). I reset computer/battery - all codes went away. It ran great for about 30 minutes. Then only P0300 showed back up. It regressed to about as bad it was before I started. I suppose spark plugs are corroding again.

(Also later a P0141 code (bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor) which I cleaned the O2 sensor and reset battery and it went away).

I talked to a mechanic in Lubbock and he said that Tahoes around that year had a problem with fuel injectors (poppets). Autozone keeps 2 of the replacement fuel meter spiders on hand. It's supposed to be a common error.

I am pretty sure the problem is somewhere on the fuel meter body/fuel injectors/fuel pressure regulator.

It also has a bad smell and alldata says that too high a fuel pressure causes a bad exhaust smell.

I also think I will use some pipe/plumbers tape to help tighten distributor cap threads (for now).

I probably should get the fuel pressure tested.

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

Well I found at least one of the culprits that caused my Ranger to overheat. I pulled the water pump. It had completely rusted off whatever was connected to the inner flange. It was probably pumping because it was still connected and spinning with the outer flange(pulley and serpentine belt), but it was just spinning, basically a flat disc with nothing attached, in the radiator fluid.

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

I am trying to get the fuel line to disconnect on my Ranger.

I have the right disconnect tool.

I put it into the side of the connection where I can see the garter spring.

I am pushing the tool into the garter spring and it goes in but the connection does not seperate.

I am not doing something right.

Any ideas?

John