2000 4 cyl 2.5L Ford Ranger Trying to remove cylinder head

[johnrhadfield]

Lot's of important information here. I'd like to do this 100% right. Money and time are both in short supply for me now. I am trying to keep my Tahoe running, while I get the Ranger runnning, after the Ranger is running then I can spend about 300 on new fuel spider(with new pressure regulator) on the Tahoe. I figure I am getting fuel in the oil so I will change oil every 1000 miles, as I now can see that "extra things" in the oil can destroy cranksahft bearings.

I am getting at least a new level as a straight edge to at least try to check for warpage on the block.

I have a sharp plastic scraper to remove gasket.

I may if things turn out remove the engine on the Ranger and completely rebuild it. However, is it possible for now to just drop the oil pan and check the crankshaft bearings? Or does the engine need to be completely removed? What else can I check in the block while the block is still in the truck?

Any way to post a pic on this website? It appears I need to upload a pic to another website then reference it with the "Insert Image" icon.



John

 

[Duane867]

Tahoe....
If you are getting fuel in your oil on the Tahoe then I would think the wire loom ( "spider harness" ) is not the problem. Its either fouled spark plugs, or the pressure regulator alone. Did the dealer tell you this or engine pro or ..?
All changing your oil every 1000 miles will do for you is hurt your wallet and ultimately the V8 in the Tahoe.
New oil has a high detergent level. Changing it so often will most certainly break down gunk in the engine and drive it straight to the pick up tube or oil passages.

Ranger....
Have to remove the engine to check the crank bearings. The engine cradle is in the way. You cant really check anything very well with the block still in the truck honestly.
Do not use a level. A level is not a straight edge. Its a level. ;-) Buy a good quality steel rule about 2 feet long and you have a straight edge.




Posting pics.....
When you post, look at the little tool bar above the box you are typing in. See that little mountain icon ? Click that and you can copy and paste the image address in the window that pops up.

 

[johnrhadfield]

I am trying to create a link to my picture(s). http://www.4shared.com/photo/yzxc_zZz/IMG00171_2.html
http://www.4shared.com/photo/1C-IWJl2/IMG00176.html

If you left click you can zoom in. You can download and zoom in even closer with Windows Photo Viewer or with a similar program.

Only one piston has wear marks straight up and down like this and it's only on the viewable side of the pic.

I always changed the oil on my Ranger every 2500 miles.

My logic is that I took good care of my Ranger since I bought it brand new in 2000 and my gamble guess is that my engine may get me another 10k-50k as is. Thus buying time to fix the Tahoe.

And the Ranger set maybe 10 days - 2 weeks with antifreeze in the pistons, which I learned I that i needed to remove spark plugs and turn engine over. When I finally emptied the oil pan clearly green antifreeze had seperated from oil and was on the bottom and first liquid out of drain plug.

I'd like to look at the crankshaft bearings and I should. The problem is I need to rent a warehouse location/engine hoist/engine stand. I could do that. My "hurry" is that the Tahoe probably needs a new fuel pressure regulator. I will go to auto parts and rent a fuel pressure tester and test.

I worked late Friday and was unable to contact Engine Pro for status of cyl hd. I will on Monday.

I scraped the gasket off the block with plastic scraper. I can still see the old imprint of the old gasket. I guess I dont need a mirror finish? Just most of the gasket?

Already looked at block with level(even though I need a straightedge). All things looked equal. I will see about renting a straight edge.

Also brown carbon on top of pistons? I assume I can clean pistons with carburetor clearner?

Also can I rotate engine either direction? or just one?

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

At Autozone - Fuel pressure tested nearly steady at about 55. For my Tahoe SFI model it's supposed to be 56-62 psi.

That's at the bottom end of the range.

Strange thing whenever put about 15 gallons of Super-unleaded and a bottle of Berrymans B-12, it runs great. Nearly no rough idle at all, except when starting then it warms up and goes. A little rough at a red light, but accelerates great. That's the condition that I tested the fuel pressure at today.


However, when there is low fuel level and no Berrymans it has a rough time accelerating and I have to back off the gas then reapproach until I find a a short interval sweet spot approach of acceleration for a short time then rough idle again. Back off again. Repeat.

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

Ok. I get my cyl hd from Engine Pro after work today. They also bougjt the gasket kit and cyl hd bolts. I scraped remainder old gasket. Not much was left. WD-40 seemed to have loosened up most of it.

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

To the forum:

2 things I need help on:

I am trying to put cyl hd back correctly on top. I am told there is a danger of damaging the valves.

This is what I think is going on. The crankshaft, camshaft, and oil pump all spin independently and the only thing that ties them together is the timing belt, timing marks and the computer. I know I am supposed to put #1 cyl at TDC. #1 cyl would be all the way up and also #4 cyl would also be all the way up too? Then before I put cyl hd on top I should turn camshaft with a socket to get it close to the timing mark on the plastic cover? Or get the samshaft so that the #1 intake valve is just to the top of open or beginning to open?

Then turn oil pump indicator until it aligns with mark also.

Do I have that right?

The second thing is getting enough of the old gasket off the block. I saw Engine Pros example in their shop it was sanded pretty smooth. It was smoother than what my plastic scraper did. I am thinking I need to remove more gasket but I don't want to remove metal. Any suggestions for a solvent?

John

 

[lordkyleofearth]

I, very carefully, used a razor blade to clean the top of my block. It worked like a champ.

The lima 2.3 engines are non-interference so if you jack up the assembly the engine won't run, but you also won't damage anything. Just align all the timing marks, slap on a belt, and let the computer do the rest. Easy as can be.

While you are there, replace your water pump, tensioner, and idler. IIRC they are cheap and it saves you having disassembly everything later.

 

[johnrhadfield]

I, very carefully, used a razor blade to clean the top of my block. It worked like a champ.

The lima 2.3 engines are non-interference so if you jack up the assembly the engine won't run, but you also won't damage anything. Just align all the timing marks, slap on a belt, and let the computer do the rest. Easy as can be.

While you are there, replace your water pump, tensioner, and idler. IIRC they are cheap and it saves you having disassembly everything later.

To lordkyleofearth:

I'd say 99% of the gasket was removed when I took the gasket off. There appears to be a "gasket film" or something left showing the outline of the old gasket. I guess the heat and pressure forces some gasket onto the cast iron. This is what cvarefully needs to be removed? It doesn't seem like much.

I am thinking of using the razor blade. I think I could do it that way if I was very careful. My fear is that it is steel on steel and I might gouge the surface.

Did you just scrape like shaving?

I am just trying to get the surface smooth, but not gouge it?

The 2.5 is also non-interference (I was told).

I did some researching and found out that: #1 TDC on the cyl hd is both valves closed (and 1 valve on #4 will be open) and #1 TDC on the block is #1 all the way to the top(and so is #4).

I guess I'll set it up like that with: the crankshaft mark at 1'o'clock, #1 cyl on the block to the top, and #1 cyl on the cyl hd with both valves closed(5'o'clock?). Then with oil pump on it's mark I will put on the timing belt.

Also 2 dowel pins are still stuck in the cyl hd, I guess I can pull those with pliers and not hurt anything?

I was told by Engine Pro to turn the engine manually without plugs if nothing stops the turning then I won't do any damage.

Thanks,

John

 

[lordkyleofearth]

So long as the mating surfaces are smooth and flat you should be fine. I don't recall if there was any discoloration where the old gasket was removed, but I doubt I would have worried about it. Run your finger along the surface and see if you can feel any disruptions; worry about those.

I think you are way over thinking the timing issue. Align the marks and everything should be right (proper positions). As far as the dowel pins are concerned, they just mate one surface to the other. I'd leave them there and not worry whether or not they are bonded to the block or head (once assembled, the pins are stuck in both).

 

[4b316]

John,we usually use a scots pad to finish the surfaces.Dowels are to locate the head on the block and keep it from sliding around and ruining the gasket.Don't worry about the timing till you get it back together.Are you going to repair your head or get another?Set your crank keyway at 12 oclock

 

[johnrhadfield]

To lordkyleofearth and 4b316:

Thanks for the input.

I already have the cyl hd back from the Engine Pro machine shop. I am preparing everything for the installation this Saturday and Sunday.

I am trying to find the least messy method. Engine Pro suggested sanding, but I don't like the idea of bits of sand falling into the pistons even though I can put rags inthe pistons. I think they boil the engines for rebuilding so they could easily wash the sand out. They suggested I stuff rags into pistons, but just don't like that.

I tested the pistons by spraying about a 1/2" deep of WD-40. They held the liquid over an hour. Then I got the idea after I use a razor(razor gasket remover from Autozone) to "shave" and make the block surface smooth, that I could put WD-40 in the pistons beforehand to help clean out any gasket material by usinf diabetic syringes to help pull out the liquid(and at the same time small bits of material).

I just want to do what's correct whether that is sanding, razor blading and/or Scott's pad.

I am told it needs to be smooth.

Dowels are stuck in the cyl head and I don't want to remove them from the cyl hd and put them in the block, if I don't need to.

I think I am way overthinking the timing issue, but I was just trying to mechanically find TDC#1 before I put the belt on to sorta "double-check" my work.

I hear I cannot be 180 out on this Ford engine design, but that I could be say for example 120 degrees out and bend a valve.

I am told both valves on cyl hd #1 cylinder need to be closed for TDC #1 (compression stroke TDC) and that the crankshaft #1 cylinder piston needs to be up flush with the top of block (#4 piston is flush also). (Technically I am told there are 2 TDCs but I am only interested in the compression stroke).

Also I am told midnight diamond/pointer on the camshaft sprocket is for making sure I am on the exact right tooth? How's that?

And that 5'o'clock pointer on the same camshaft sprocket is for timing with the crank and oil pump via timing belt.

Also, I am told every 2 revolutions of the engine brings me back to TDC#1.

John

 

[HareRazor]

What he meant by checking for straight is laying a straight edge on edge over the gasket surface from the head to the block, on the block. this will reveal any warpage present.
Usually NEVER happens on the block. Generally that happens to the head alone and you do the procedure on the head.

Yep that's exactly what I meant. I just know how frustrating it is spending a lot of time and money on something that doesn't work out the way I hoped, and I like to double check everything.

 

[4b316]

Sounds like you are ready.Don't worry about the valves hitting,they are non interference and can't hit the piston.Did they mill the head for flatness?How much?

 

[johnrhadfield]

Sounds like you are ready.Don't worry about the valves hitting,they are non interference and can't hit the piston.Did they mill the head for flatness?How much?

Yes. They milled it for flatness. Should I ask how much?

Is that a valve clearance issue?

I also heard I could use a little vaseline on the gasket to help keep it in place, while I put the heavy cyl hd back on. Any ideas on placing heavy cyl hd, seeing how it is heavy?

Should I use that orange/red loctite on the cyl hd bolts?

John

 

[4b316]

Just be nice to know how much it was milled.Nothing on the gasket.If you are worried about it moving around,pull the dowels and put them in the block.Head is not that heavy,get two guys to put it on if too heavy or arkward.No loctite,just torque to specs