2000 4 cyl 2.5L Ford Ranger Trying to remove cylinder head

[Duane867]

Push harder...... Some times they can be a bitch,

 

[Duane867]

Well I found at least one of the culprits that caused my Ranger to overheat. I pulled the water pump. It had completely rusted off whatever was connected to the inner flange. It was probably pumping because it was still connected and spinning with the outer flange(pulley and serpentine belt), but it was just spinning, basically a flat disc with nothing attached, in the radiator fluid.

John

You definitely need a new head or head work then I would say, and I would definitely have the block tested. Sounds like you were seriously over heating for a while.

 

[johnrhadfield]

To Duane867:

I started working on my Tahoe this weekend and it ocurred to me that if I make 1 bad mistake then I might disable my Tahoe and I would have no vehicle at all to get to work.

Your right the block needs to be checked. If I had more money and time I would.

It is too late for checking the block because I went for it and put 200 down for fixing the cyl hd and another 150 for gaskets and bolts.

It should be ready Wednesday. Another 250 then.

Then I am going to put everything back together. If it's good it'll run if it's bad I'll take the rebuilt cyl hd back off and try to put it on another good block.

If I can get another 50 k off this engine(even though it's not perfect) that gives me time to find another engine/cyl hd and learn to rebuild one and fix my Tahoe.

So I have WD-40 sprayed on the pistons and clean rags on top of the block to try to keep out dust.

And I am waiting on Wednesday.

Thanks,

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

To Duane867:

Other than getting the block looked at, what else needs to be done.to put the engine back together?

Do I use something on the block where the old cyl hd gasket used to be?

Should I rotate the engine and spray more WD-40 and try to clean things?

As of yet I haven't rotated engine since I found TDC cyl 1.

I haven't had time to remove the fuel line yet. Is it possible to push too hard on the garter spring?

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

To the forum:

Does anyone have any suggestions on cleaning the old gasket surface?

John

 

[Earl43P]

Sure. You want as mild an abrasive as you can get away with. A lot comes off easily with a sharpened piece of plexiglas used as a scraper. A plastic putty knife works too.

I'd start with a rag and a solvent, then green scotchbrite pad.
Move up to red pads if you must.

My last resort would be 400 grit sandpaper.
Don't get carried away.

 

[lordkyleofearth]

Johnrhadfield,

I recently rebuilt my 97 2.3 with only basic tools and zero prior experience. It is very doable and was easier than I expected. Timing is pretty simple, just get the marks lined up when you install the belt and the computer does the rest.

If your head it unusable, I have an extra head and 2.3 block lying around.

 

[HareRazor]

Did you check and make sure that the block is straight where the head meets the block yet? If you don't already have the cylinder head I find it easier and cheaper most of the time to replace the entire engine then just replacing a head. Especially if there was water in the oil it could do a number on the bearings.

 

[lordkyleofearth]

If the head is off, the bearings are mot much more work. May as well go all the way while you are there.

 

[johnrhadfield]

Sure. You want as mild an abrasive as you can get away with. A lot comes off easily with a sharpened piece of plexiglas used as a scraper. A plastic putty knife works too.

I'd start with a rag and a solvent, then green scotchbrite pad.
Move up to red pads if you must.

My last resort would be 400 grit sandpaper.
Don't get carried away.

To Earl43P:

What type of solvent?

I think a plastic putty knife is the best and safest suggestion I have heard yet.

Thanks,

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

Johnrhadfield,

I recently rebuilt my 97 2.3 with only basic tools and zero prior experience. It is very doable and was easier than I expected. Timing is pretty simple, just get the marks lined up when you install the belt and the computer does the rest.

If your head it unusable, I have an extra head and 2.3 block lying around.

Oh wow. I am in West Texas, where are you?

What did you use to rebuild the engine Haynes, Chiltons, this site?

Thanks,

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

Did you check and make sure that the block is straight where the head meets the block yet? If you don't already have the cylinder head I find it easier and cheaper most of the time to replace the entire engine then just replacing a head. Especially if there was water in the oil it could do a number on the bearings.

To HareRazor:
Will you explain in more detail what you mean by "Did you check and make sure that the block is straight where the head meets the block yet?"

Also Engine Pro is telling me it's going to be Friday instead of today Wednesday. I think that cyl hd is supposed to be difficult to find.

I guess I will be replacing the whole engine if this my current engine is bad.

Thanks,

John

 

[johnrhadfield]

If the head is off, the bearings are mot much more work. May as well go all the way while you are there.

Will you explain in more detail how to check the bearings?

Thanks,

John

 

[Duane867]

With the head off timing and TDC means diddly do da day.
Rotate the hell out of it all you want it doesn't mean anything at this point.
Go easy on the WD. the more that shit you spray on it the more you have to clean off next week when you re assemble it.
You can use a haynes manual for reference for keep in mind what ever manual you use will not be specific to your year truck or specific year engine. Every thing will pretty much be " similar steps for different years" under each step shown. Haynes manual is a little better but still the same one size fits all text.

If you are dead set upon rebuilding it your self you'll need much more then basic tools to do it right. You'll need plasti-gauge ( this is literally thin soft plastic strips that smash down under pressure to a predetermined thickness under the crank bearing as you rotate the crank so you can accurately set crank main bearing cap torque. it is a must) , a torque wrench, a ridge reamer (to cut away the ridge left above and below the piston travel points in the cylinders so you can slide the pistons out), a 1/2" drive metric and standard socket set and ratchet, a 3/8" drive metric and standard socket set and ratchet, piston ring compressor tool to install the newly ringed pistons ( it compresses the rings so you can get the piston and rings in the bore), a file to file the rings to a perfect fit ( they are never, ever never plug and play. You always have to file the ends down to get the right fit and proper compressive seal to the cylinder wall.) a complete master rebuild kit ( round $300 - $400 or more I would think for a good one with wrist pins, all bearings, and all gaskets. More for a kit containing pistons and crank ), you'll need snap ring pliers, a dial indicator, an inside micrometer and an outside micrometer, Tap and die set to chase threads on bolts and in the block to clean them. The list is pretty extensive to really do the job right. You can do it, but by the time you buy all the tools you don't have now to finish the job correctly, buy the rebuild kit, buy and engine stand, rent a hoist etc etc etc...
Your likely only going to be saving $4- 500 from a professional build.
Personally I would pay the $500 in labor to have them do all the work.
But.. times are hard and I understand where you are coming from completely. ( there right now my self ).

What he meant by checking for straight is laying a straight edge on edge over the gasket surface from the head to the block, on the block. this will reveal any warpage present.
Usually NEVER happens on the block. Generally that happens to the head alone and you do the procedure on the head.

 

[lordkyleofearth]

Oh wow. I am in West Texas, where are you?

What did you use to rebuild the engine Haynes, Chiltons, this site?

Thanks,

John

San Antonio area. I used a Haynes but it left me scratching my head many times. Find a machine shop that is friendly, because the book does not have the engine torque specs (some of the ones it had were wrong and resulted in me breaking a piston rod cap bolt).

If you are dead set upon rebuilding it your self you'll need much more then basic tools to do it right. You'll need plasti-gauge ( this is literally thin soft plastic strips that smash down under pressure to a predetermined thickness under the crank bearing as you rotate the crank so you can accurately set crank main bearing cap torque. it is a must) , a torque wrench, a ridge reamer (to cut away the ridge left above and below the piston travel points in the cylinders so you can slide the pistons out), a 1/2" drive metric and standard socket set and ratchet, a 3/8" drive metric and standard socket set and ratchet, piston ring compressor tool to install the newly ringed pistons ( it compresses the rings so you can get the piston and rings in the bore), a file to file the rings to a perfect fit ( they are never, ever never plug and play. You always have to file the ends down to get the right fit and proper compressive seal to the cylinder wall.) a complete master rebuild kit ( round $300 - $400 or more I would think for a good one with wrist pins, all bearings, and all gaskets. More for a kit containing pistons and crank ), you'll need snap ring pliers, a dial indicator, an inside micrometer and an outside micrometer, Tap and die set to chase threads on bolts and in the block to clean them. The list is pretty extensive to really do the job right. You can do it, but by the time you buy all the tools you don't have now to finish the job correctly, buy the rebuild kit, buy and engine stand, rent a hoist etc etc etc...
Your likely only going to be saving $4- 500 from a professional build.
Personally I would pay the $500 in labor to have them do all the work.
But.. times are hard and I understand where you are coming from completely. ( there right now my self ).

What he meant by checking for straight is laying a straight edge on edge over the gasket surface from the head to the block, on the block. this will reveal any warpage present.
Usually NEVER happens on the block. Generally that happens to the head alone and you do the procedure on the head.

Yes and no. To do it RIGHT yes, this is a fairly accurate list, but you can cut some corners. I did it with basic tools and a stack of rent-a-tools from autozone and the like. My rings fit fine (triple checked them because I was surprised too) out of the box, but I did break one during installation The only tool I'd add is a Piston Ring Groove Cleaning Tool. I had no idea it even existed until I called a friend to ask why my pistons wouldn't fit back into the block.

Play it by ear. Use a straight edge and feeler gauge to make sure nothing is warped, plastigauge the bearings several times (rotate the crank 90* and check again over and over until you get back to start) to check the crank. I was able to hone the cylinders satisfactorily at home with the rental stuff, the engine had some miles on it but the cylinders were not so bad that I had to have them bored out.

Since it is taken apart right now, go check things out and see what condition things are in. You may not need extensive work and it could be an easy DIY rebuild (or it is really pooched and you are better off with a different engine) Don't worry about the bearing conditions, the sets are <$20; just replace them with new ones (if you decide to rebuild it) Anything you don't know how to do just youtube; its full of DIY help.

I grabbed a rebuild kit that was just seals and gaskets, it was around $100. I think I spent about $1000-$1200 on my rebuild, including a new alternator, belts, tensioners, battery, clutch and some various engine bolts. 10,000+ miles later it is running fine and has no problems with oil loss. This was my first engine pull/rebuild/install ever.