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2.9L w/ MegaSquirt to 4.0L w/ Ecumaster Black and a Turbo build


Just dropped the block and pistons for rebore to oversize. Damn the prices went up by 40% :-/
If I convert the currency it will be around $500 for the machine shop.
How much does that cost in the US?
 
got my block from machine shop, started deburring it / grinding / sanding sharp and rough edges already.
I’m thinking to paint the block in a nice orange color rather than stock grey.
What do you think?
B1A2F172-1FD0-4EAB-9572-B8EE167A75C8.jpeg7566A3A9-5B40-4533-AE28-D516A1C65087.jpeg
 
got my block from machine shop, started deburring it / grinding / sanding sharp and rough edges already.
I’m thinking to paint the block in a nice orange color rather than stock grey.
What do you think?
View attachment 79512View attachment 79513

Looks good.

As far as engine paint, orange always reminds me of Chevy. If you prefer the block be a brighter color, Ford Blue is always nice.

My rebuild last year I painted the block black, sandblasted & clearcoated the aluminum parts, and painted the valve covers Ford Blue. Unfortunately you can hardly see it under the big plastic truck intake on the 95+ Ranger setup.

iuzfBXx.jpg
 
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Just dropped the block and pistons for rebore to oversize. Damn the prices went up by 40% :-/
If I convert the currency it will be around $500 for the machine shop.
How much does that cost in the US?

A simple rebore done local was $120 USD last time I checked for this v6. It is extra to have the rings sized and pistons installed but only like $80 more.
 
got my block from machine shop, started deburring it / grinding / sanding sharp and rough edges already.
I’m thinking to paint the block in a nice orange color rather than stock grey.
What do you think?
View attachment 79512View attachment 79513

Brother, orange is not for a Ford. Black or gray both look nice with aluminum or Ford blue valve covers. I tried silver but never again. Gray is great for finding the origin of a fluid.
 
Hahah you probably don’t know, but it’s easier to find a virgin in Czechia (world capital of porn BTW) than a Chevy in Poland ;-)
Ford is popular due to the European models.
V8s are Exotic, unless you own an Audi/Mercedes or so ;-)

I’ll think about it ;-)

Finally I paid $400 for reboring and resurfacing for CHG
 
400 € or USD?
 
I was not considerig that at the beginning, but as this seems to be all in now - should I get a hotter cam?
 
Where is the rpm your engine is going to spend most of it's time at? Hotter cam means higher rpm. And sometimes loss of torque at lower rpm.
 
With my current setup most of the time it’s around 2500-3000 RPM. But from experience I know this will be the range where my boost will begin to be alive. On the other hand a similar build was stuck with HP at a range of 300-320HP (crank) and adding more boost did not help much, but hotter cam helped and it’s now over 400. if I can get more HP with less boost…?
 
It's been a very long time since I learned about turbos... about 40 years ago, and I never kept up on it. But it sounds like you need to change the size of the turbo to come on earlier. Then again, a cam change will probably be cheaper and easier to change back if it doesnt work like you want. I would talk to the cam manufacturer to get their recommendation.
 
Well in theory… the ratio of the rocker arms is low in OHV. Therefore the valves barely open with stock cam. The 410 or 422 cam from Comp cams should help at least a bit. That’s what I read. Turbo to start earlier - either smaller one (that won’t be big enough for power at higher RPM range), or a turbo with a changing geometry - not sure if I want to complicate that build that much. That’s theory. Real life is that I Heard the dual springs and hotter cam helped - but only from one builder. So any other opinions more than welcomed.
 

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