2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[AndyB.]

you would be turning the engine forwards (like you’re tightening the crank pulley to bring it to the 0° mark.

I only pointed this out because you’re going to need to know how to read that scale when you get a timing light.

Is there any chance a timing light is a free loaner tool at a parts store near you?

 

[MadMax_636]

Pulled the old distributor out and the oil pump shaft came with it. Also, a little bit of crud fell into the hole. If yall can guide me on how to get it all back together that would be awesome! Im just nervous about doing anything since the shaft came out and Ive never heard of that happening. Ive always heard having to find it when putting it back in. Im also worried about the crud and about if I should try cleaning out the port. Since I wanna do this as right as I possibly can.

Thats just how I am. I start off nervous and worried about doing stuff but ones I get good at it. I can do it without thinking about it. This is just the most Ive dont on a engine before....

 

[MadMax_636]

you would be turning the engine forwards (like you’re tightening the crank pulley to bring it to the 0° mark.

I only pointed this out because you’re going to need to know how to read that scale when you get a timing light.

Is there any chance a timing light is a free loaner tool at a parts store near you?

I can check and see. Idk if they loan them out since they sell them for like 45-50 bucks on the low end.
Next time I'm there I'll ask though.

 

[AndyB.]

Do you know if this engine has been apart before for a rebuild? When this left the factory, it had a small retainer to keep it centered and to keep it from pulling out.

Put the shaft back in the oil pump before installing the new distributor, the pointy end of the shaft goes up. You can drive it with a socket and extension to make sure the shaft is in the oil pump.

 

[MadMax_636]

Do you know if this engine has been apart before for a rebuild? When this left the factory, it had a small retainer to keep it centered and to keep it from pulling out.

Put the shaft back in the oil pump before installing the new distributor, the pointy end of the shaft goes up. You can drive it with a socket and extension to make sure the shaft is in the oil pump.

Don't know, as far as I know. Its all original. I found some old wasp nests (empty) which might confirm its age. She's got around 93k on the clock. Sure that's 193 or 293k.

What should I do about the crud that fell in? Use a shop vacuum to get it out or what?

 

[franklin2]

The crud fell down on top of the oil pump and down in the pan. Nothing you can do about it now. The pump has a screen on it to catch the big stuff. Once you get it running and the oil splashes around some and gets hot, you can change the oil.

Getting the oil pump driveshaft back in place can be touchy sometimes. I usually get a long 1/4 drive extension and a socket that fits the shaft with some thick wheel bearing grease on it so the shaft won't fall down into the engine. Then with a flashlight I carefully put it back down into the pump. Then work the socket off without pulling the shaft back out.

Next time the dist is pulled, the shaft is going to come out again, and hopefully stay in the dist and not fall into the engine. Like someone mentioned, it's supposed to have a retainer to keep it in the pump, but so much crud gets on the dist shaft, it gets stuck in the dist and the retainer slides off and falls into the pan also. It happens a lot on the v8's too.

 

[MadMax_636]

The crud fell down on top of the oil pump and down in the pan. Nothing you can do about it now. The pump has a screen on it to catch the big stuff. Once you get it running and the oil splashes around some and gets hot, you can change the oil.

Getting the oil pump driveshaft back in place can be touchy sometimes. I usually get a long 1/4 drive extension and a socket that fits the shaft with some thick wheel bearing grease on it so the shaft won't fall down into the engine. Then with a flashlight I carefully put it back down into the pump. Then work the socket off without pulling the shaft back out.

Next time the dist is pulled, the shaft is going to come out again, and hopefully stay in the dist and not fall into the engine. Like someone mentioned, it's supposed to have a retainer to keep it in the pump, but so much crud gets on the dist shaft, it gets stuck in the dist and the retainer slides off and falls into the pan also. It happens a lot on the v8's too.

Thanks for responding. What about putting the motor to 0°? Since I really cant read or understand the crank wheel. Also I've got the shaft back in and like Andy said. With a socket and extension. Did I get it right or not?

 

[MadMax_636]

Used vacuum like inside the spark plug hole until it got pushed out and then rotated it slightly til it went back in. Then turned it back to the middle (not going in or being pushed out). Timing wheel says 0°.

 

[MadMax_636]

The distributor won't go all the way in....

 

[AndyB.]

There could be a few things going on.

You’ll want to try rotating the rotor a bit by hand to get the drive gear teeth to mesh up with the cam.

It’s also possibly the oil pump driveshaft is t in all the way.

It’s also possible all the blech that fell in is keeping the distributor from bottoming out. I’d try to clear out some of what was showing in that picture.

 

[AndyB.]

You could also try rotating the oil pump driveshaft a bit with a socket, to help it line up with the recess in the bottom of the distributor.

 

[MadMax_636]

There could be a few things going on.

You’ll want to try rotating the rotor a bit by hand to get the drive gear teeth to mesh up with the cam.

It’s also possibly the oil pump driveshaft is t in all the way.

It’s also possible all the blech that fell in is keeping the distributor from bottoming out. I’d try to clear out some of what was showing in that picture.

Ok, Its getting late and Im gonna call it a night. I got it to fit in a little more and when I spin the rotor I feel resistance. So It might be getting to the oil pump shaft or its mating with the teeth. idk.
When I left it for the night. It wasnt wobbily as when I took the photo. Im work on it later more tomorrow. First thing.

 

[MadMax_636]

You could also try rotating the oil pump driveshaft a bit with a socket, to help it line up with the recess in the bottom of the distributor.

I might get myself a large magnet on a stick tomorrow. Since I need one anyways. I tried using the socket I used to drive it in and I couldnt feel resistance. Maybe the socket was to bit but idk. My phone was at 18% and was slow as paint drying. I had to push the shutter button like 5 times to even get the last photo I uploaded/posted.

Again, Thank you ALL for the help! At the end of this! Id like to buy yall a beer or something to show my gratatude!

 

[MadMax_636]

Like someone mentioned, it's supposed to have a retainer to keep it in the pump, but so much crud gets on the dist shaft, it gets stuck in the dist and the retainer slides off and falls into the pan also.

Is that something I should be worried about? When I got the dist it had a sticker saying if the shear pin or gear is worn or broken the oil pump and or drive gear should be replaced. Using the wrong distributor, worn drive gear, or defective oil pump drive will result in extensive engine damage..... Im only stating what the sticker says.

You said it happens a lot on V8s and as if its normal and its nothing to be worried about.

 

[AndyB.]

The missing retainer isn’t anything to worry about.

I think the distributor remanufacturer is trying to cover themselves. If the oil pump seizes up, the roll pin or distributor drive gear can be damaged—you didn’t have either of those conditions.