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2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.


You're getting good advice, and franklin2 is describing a good way to do it, and why. You do need to find cylinder #1 TDC on its compression stroke. It helps to first clean up the timing marks on the crank pulley; find the 0 mark, and paint it or chalk it so that you can see it better. The "finger in the #1 spark plug hole" does work good.

Try to get a good look at the distributor hold down bolt; if it's the original bolt it may have a security-type head. If so you'll want to know ahead of time if you need to get a specialty socket (most have gotten replaced by now with regular hex bolts, though).
 
Video - 1:
Video - 2:

I rotated the motor to the distributor is at #1 spark. It was a pain in the ass to rotate the motor.
 
So, the rest of the parts are coming today. Im ready to get this party started!
 
Make sure that you were on the compression stroke. If you're rotating the crank by hand, removing the remaining spark plugs will let it rotate easier (don't get the plug wires' order mixed up- marking the plug wires will help). It's even better, if you were due for a plug change anyway.
 
In your videos, you’re a little over 20°BTDC.

Thanks for watching it and giving info about it! So I need to do a full rotation or back it up a little bit?
 
Make sure that you were on the compression stroke. If you're rotating the crank by hand, removing the remaining spark plugs will let it rotate easier (don't get the plug wires' order mixed up- marking the plug wires will help). It's even better, if you were due for a plug change anyway.

Im confused, SO TDC isnt at the top of the compression stroke? The 2.8 is really dumb around the #1 plug and where the crank is. So I cant really hold my thumb and rotate it. Unless I dont need to do that.
Sorry, Still new to this type of thing. Trying to be 100% sure/right about this. I dont wanna screw anything up.
 
Facing the engine, you are turning your wrench in a clockwise direction, right?

You’ll just be rotating it a small amount until the scale and the pointer go from 20 to 0. Look at where the rotor is pointing, if it’s at the number 1 post on the cap, you’re on the compression stroke—if it’s pointing 180° from it, you’re on the exhaust stroke.

Keep in mind, the entire point of this is to get the new distributor installed so the pointer is pointing in roughly the same direction as the old distributor (when it was removed). Nothing special happens when the engine is at TDC.
 
As franklin2 pointed out, the crankshaft turns twice for every single camshaft rotation. So you actually have two TDCs: one on the compression stroke (both valves closed, air / fuel mix in the chamber being compressed, spark plug about to fire); and then a second one on the exhaust stroke (exhaust valve open, exhaust exiting the chamber). Think "four stroke": intake stroke, compression stroke, (ignites here), power stroke, exhaust stroke.

If your distributor is still undisturbed, if the crank is at the 0 mark, and if the rotor button is at the distributor cap #1 spark plug wire, you should be good. Confirming compression stroke by pressure in the #1 cylinder spark plug hole simply takes the guesswork out it.
 
You probably already know all of this, but just in case...
 

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Keep in mind, the entire point of this is to get the new distributor installed so the pointer is pointing in roughly the same direction as the old distributor (when it was removed). Nothing special happens when the engine is at TDC.

This is a good point. At the risk of confusing you, you really don't need to find TDC AS LONG AS YOU PUT THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR IN EXACTLY LIKE THE OLD ONE CAME OUT. If the old distributor was getting ready to fire on #5 cylinder, you pull it out and put the new distributor in the same place to where it's getting ready to fire #5, then everything is good.

But finding TDC #1 is a good exercise and learning experience I think. From your other post I think you had the rotor pointing to #1 already correct? If you did you are good to go. You don't have to be dead on TDC, just in the neighborhood.

The way this is going to go, you are going to pull the old distributor out, put the new one in, you might have to fight it a little bit to get the oil pump shaft to go in, and then you are going to put the lockdown clamp and bolt for the dist in place, and you are going to tighten it so you can still grab the dist and just turn it, but it it will not turn on it's own.

Once you are ready to start it, if you have trouble you are going to go out and grab the dist and turn it a little bit one way and the other till you can get it running. Then later you are going to put the timing light on it and dial it in to the correct reading on the scale. And then you will go ahead and tighten the dist clamp bolt tighter so it doesn't move at all.
 
And, you already have a vacuum gauge, which can be real handy when you're setting the timing.
 
Alright, I believe I've found TDC. I pulled the plugs, labeled the wired, and rotated the motor and have my brother put his thumb over #1 and I turned it until he couldn't feel air coming out. The cap lands on or a little bit after #1

Harbor Fart didn't have a timing light in stock. So I'm either gonna have to wait till Monday to see if they get one in truck or wait till the 29th or may 14 (my birthday) to get one off Amazon....

Like you said, I can use a vacuum gauge to set a rough timing. I pulled the carb off to get to the distributor easier and to better cap the tree. Now, I've got to get the junk distributor out and drop the new puppy in!
 

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It probably doesn’t matter, but you’re about 30° before TDC in your picture.

Should I roll it back or should I just start pulling the old and putting the new one in?
 

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