1989 Ford Ranger (manual trans M5OD) 2.9l engine swap to 4.0 from 94 Ford Explorer (auto trans)

[Rjack90]

I double checked that pretty quick. The line I have coming from the fuel filter I have going to the fuel pressure regulator. I’m not sure why that spring is so damn stiff but it seems like it would take a lot of pressure to open it. I can turn the key on and it shoots fuel out the line just before the reg but when I check the fuel rail I got nothing. I even pulled the reg off the rail and cranked it and it just won’t push fuel through the reg

 

[SenorNoob]

I just checked mine to be sure. Line from fuel filter goes to rail. Line from regulator is return going directly back to tank.

 

[Shran]

Good call on using the Ranger harness. I used a 94 Explorer engine & dash harness on a swap years ago and it was a real mess trying to get the wiring right. The dash part was not super hard but the rear lights, fuel tank stuff, etc mostly goes through the body on the Explorer and under the cab on the Ranger platform so there was a lot of wires to splice.

Not sure what to say about the fuel issue, are you sure you have the fuel lines connected correctly? I had them on backwards one time and it fought me forever.

 

[SenorNoob]

Mine is plumbed backwards from OP's description. It's run that way for 12ish years now.

 

[Shran]

Yeah I believe it should go from the filter, to the rail, then out of the regulator into the return line and back to the tank.

I had it backwards on my 5.0 swap because I had to build fuel lines from scratch and it made more sense in my mind that the regulator would come first in the system but actually that is not the case.

 

[Rjack90]

I just checked mine to be sure. Line from fuel filter goes to rail. Line from regulator is return going directly back to tank.

Hey thanks for that. Swapped the lines with supply going to rail and return to regulator and got it flowing.

 

[SenorNoob]

So is it running now?

 

[Rjack90]

Yeah it fired up but I have some other issues. I thought I primed the engine by cranking motor over with ignition unplugged and fuel relay out. Oil pressure did not register on dash. I plugged ignition in and fuel relay back in. Fired up but ran rough and back fired. Only ran for about 20 seconds. Checked the oil pressure sensor on side of block and but a mechanical one in to be safe.
I am getting no oil pressure even with the mechanical when I crank.
I then primed the engine using a weed sprayer through the engine oil pressure sensor hole and turning the motor by hand. Put gauge back on and still no pressure.
Pulled the intake manifold back off and went in through camshaft drive gear where the oil pump rod is but I’m having a hard time getting on the shaft with the drill and socket. Doesn’t seem like it’s spinning it.
I didn’t think I could put that oil pump in wrong only fit one way

 

[Brain75]

This donor, any history on it, was it supposedly working before? Did you test compression & leakdown before putting it in?

 

[Rjack90]

The motor is a reman long block from jegs. Came with new oil pump I installed.
I had a running donor 94 explorer 4.0 I with low compression. Parts off of it below:
Engine oil pan
Valve covers
Intake manifold
Crank shaft sensor
Timing chain cover
Water pump
Radiator
Alternator
Power steering pump
Ac system
And all little sensors on manifold etc.

The wiring harness was too much for me so went the easier route and went junkyard an got full engine bay wiring harness out of 91 ford ranger automatic.
I have had to re pin a lot of the plugs to get all the electrical working but I’m pretty close. Lucky the colors were there just in wrong spot.

I did not do any compression test. Didn’t think I needed to on reman.

 

[Brain75]

understood - I didn't do a thing to my first transplant and got lucky / had a nice junkyard, they proved it working before pulling it (before all the changes to safety) since I was a 16 yr old kid,.... shortly after that learned to do a lot of testing before the work of putting it in.

Anywho... Oil pump install went smoothly no issues? (last oil pump I touched was in a '48 flathead so a bit different)
could you link me to the oil pump on JEGS please.

 

[Brain75]

Did you catch that one side of the shaft is 3 7/8" and the other is 4 1/8" (approx, Ford says it is 4.20") .... and the direction is longer side towards the pump, shorter side towards the block:

https://free-auto-repair-manuals.com/wp-content/uploads/PDF/Ford/107000000028.pdf

I haven't had to do this to a cologne block yet, but that same pdf says prime before install - don't know how they expect that upside down..... on my old '48 you prime it by packing it with vaseline during assembly.
Any cologne rebuild guru's have the correct how to on priming?
edit: see next post

 

[Brain75]

I searched and searched for it using the 2.8, 2.9, 4.0 OHV keywords and got nothing but searching just OHV I found this - and if you didn't get a way to prime it before assembly then 15 seconds long (to keep from burning up starter).... I might even go 10 seconds limit unless it is a new starter, good clean cables and you really don't want to chance having one more part to replace:

TSB
01-24-6 ENGINE - ENGINE OIL SYSTEM PRIMING PROCEDURES - SERVICE TIPS

Publication Date: DECEMBER 3, 2001

FORD: 1995-1997 PROBE, THUNDERBIRD
1995-2000 CONTOUR
1995-2002 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, MUSTANG, TAURUS
2000-2002 FOCUS
2002 THUNDERBIRD
1995-1996 BRONCO
1995-1997 AEROSTAR, F-250, F-350
1995-2002 E SERIES, EXPLORER, F-150, RANGER, WINDSTAR
1997-2002 EXPEDITION
1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2000-2002 EXCURSION
2001-2002 ESCAPE, EXPLORER SPORT TRAC, EXPLORER SPORT
LINCOLN: 1995-1998 MARK VIII
1995-2002 CONTINENTAL, TOWN CAR
2000-2002 LS
1998-2002 NAVIGATOR
2002 BLACKWOOD
MERCURY: 1995-1997 COUGAR
1995-1999 TRACER
1995-2000 MYSTIQUE
1995-2002 GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE
1999-2002 COUGAR
1995-2002 VILLAGER
1997-2002 MOUNTAINEER



ISSUE:
Reports of premature engine failure suggest some overhauled, new and/or remanufactured engine oil systems are not correctly primed prior to initial engine start-up, after being installed in the vehicle. This may cause oil starvation during initial engine start-up.
ACTION:
Prior to starting a new, overhauled or remanufactured engine, the oil pump and oil system should be primed to eliminate the possibility of oil starvation at start-up. Refer to the following Service Information for details.

SERVICE INFORMATION


Overhead Cam Engines (OHC):

Overhead cam engines use a G-rotor pump design and is driven by the crankshaft. If the engine is overhauled, the oil pump (prior to assembly) should be fed oil through the oil pick-up passage, prior to installing the pick-up tube and screen assembly. This can usually be accomplished by rotating the oil pump while oil is being fed into the oil pump inlet. Once the oil pump is primed, the oil pump can then be installed onto the engine.

Remanufactured engines are usually cold tested before leaving the plant. As a result, the oil pump should not have to be removed from the engine and primed.

Overhead cam engines, whether overhauled or remanufactured, prior to starting the engine, ensure the engine crankcase is filled to specification with engine oil. Disable the fuel supply to the fuel injectors (disable inertia fuel shut-off switch) and crank the engine in fifteen (15) second increments, until the oil pump is primed. An oil pressure gauge can be used to assist in determining when oil pressure is obtained.

NOTE: ENSURE THE INERTIA FUEL SHUT-OFF SWITCH IS RE-ENABLED PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING TO START ENGINE.



Overhead Valve Engines (OHV):

Overhead valve engines (push-rod type) use an oil pump driven by the camshaft via an intermediate shaft connected to the distributor or camshaft synchronizer assembly.

Whether the engine is overhauled or remanufactured, the oil pump should be primed prior to starting the engine. If the engine is overhauled, ensure the crankcase is filled to specification with engine oil and using an engine oil pump priming tool kit, (commercially available) rotate oil pump until it is primed. An oil pressure gauge can be used to assist in determining when oil pressure is obtained.

If a remanufactured engine is being installed, after the installation has been completed, ensure the crankcase is filled to specification with engine oil. Disable the fuel supply to the fuel injectors (disable inertia fuel shut-off switch) and crank the engine in (15) second increments, until the oil pump is primed. An oil pressure gauge can be used to assist in determining when oil pressure is obtained.

NOTE: ENSURE THE INERTIA FUEL SHUT-OFF SWITCH IS RE-ENABLED PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING TO START ENGINE.



Regardless of engine design, it is extremely important that the engine oil pump is correctly primed, prior to initial engine start-up.


OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
NONE

WARRANTY STATUS:
Information Only

OASIS CODES:
401000, 497000, 499000
---------------------------
Sounds like you could pull the camshaft synchronizer, spin the pump with a drill (don't need a special tool - just grab a youtube video on the how) - is that possible on the 4.0 OHV?
one youtube video I found the guy claimed he didn't get pressure till the 3rd cycle (45 seconds)....

 

[Rjack90]

Hey Fellas, having some issues with no start once warmed up.
Long story short, truck ran great for first week, with most electrical in cab working. Mid week radio shut off with no power i figured I had the wrong pin supplying it with power in the firewall bull head connector since it would loose memory every time you shut truck off.
Went to fix the problem and found a black and white wire and a grey and red that could be switched. Switched and went to fire up it cranked but no fire. I switched wires back to my og, it fired up but had low idle 500rpm and check engine light came on.
All gauges still working and reading good i took it for a few mile drive to get it warm up and let the cpu reconfigure. Ran fine still idles low but didn’t die.
shut it off and went to fire back up, just crank no start.
Have spark and fuel still nothing.
Let it sit over night cranked and fire up. Still low idle. Let it run for 2 min shut it off ram some test and now back to won’t start. I still have spark and fuel.
Any suggestions?

 

[SenorNoob]

Check codes?