Fuel tank for 1989 Ford ranger with 6ft bed.

[MaD]

One of the ways we make sure the tank is fume free is to fill it completely full of water (we meaning the old 48-56 classics group)... that said, modern gasoline is hydrophillic meaning it LOVES water and grabs onto and bonds with it (ruining the gas) - that's the ethanol in the gas. If you don't get rid of the fumes, you are heating a bomb, if you use water (you got to fill it 101% full - no air) then you got to figure out some way to really really really dry it out afterwards.

Ok, I've drained all the gas out and wiped what was left with rags. As of right now it's air drying. Do you think the fumes would dissipate after a couple of days?

 

[Jazzer]

^+1 Brain75

A shop vac on blow inserted as far as possible into the tank is a good way to dry it out.

 

[Brain75]

no amount of air exchange will remove the fumes as far as I understand (no practical myself), even filling it with water, draining and then waiting too long the pores of the metal/plastic will weep out gasses... it's kind of a fill it and weld with it full (that's what the propane service professionals do to fix propane tanks) or drain it and immediately fix it before fumes re-accumulate.

 

[Brain75]

the old 48-56 crowd has done a lot of digging into this and several of em have fixed their steel tanks (the old unlined steel tanks rust too pieces the instant e-## gas touches em), myself, I just pitched the tank after 3 tries of cleaning it out and switched to a full size bronco plastic tank (in my '48).

I've not heard of anyone blowing themselves up, but mostly it is an older/?wiser?/safer crowd - not so many reckless 16 year olds who will try mig welding in a closed garage with a freshly emptied gas tank right next to a 5 gallon bucket full of gasoline.

I have no idea how hot a harbor freight plasti-welder is and how that correlates to gasoline's flashpoint, I assume there's no spark since it's not steel welding.

whatever you do, just be conscientious and safe - and have a fire extinguisher on standby.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Ive had great luck with this stuff....

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

A plastic welder shouldn’t get hot enough to cause a problem. There’s no spark. As long as you don’t smell gas fumes, I’d say you’re good to go.

 

[Jazzer]

A degreaser washout might help pull more gas out.
Or balance it so you can fill it with cold water almost up to the repair, to limit the exposed HDPE area. HDPE starts melting at about 418F, if that helps.

 

[MaD]

Ive had great luck with this stuff....

View attachment 120351

I've decided to go with this. The crack is in a bad spot to try and plastic weld. Here's the 1st layer.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I don't remember if anything goes behind that flange, if not I'd be tempted to take a big O ring and cut it and wrap it in there a few times and seal with that stuff if you are going that route, wouldn't hurt to do a couple layers first though

 

[MaD]

I don't remember if anything goes behind that flange, if not I'd be tempted to take a big O ring and cut it and wrap it in there a few times and seal with that stuff if you are going that route, wouldn't hurt to do a couple layers first though

The heat shield does. I cut a piece from the fuel filler hose and I'm using that. I did multiple layers all around.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I've decided to go with this. The crack is in a bad spot to try and plastic weld. Here's the 1st layer.

Ive sealed everything from radiators to fillernecks with that stuff. It should do you well

 

[MaD]

Ok, so it started leaking quickly after my quick fix attempt. I cleaned off the seal all and jb weld, luckily both came off very easy. I ended up cutting the top of the tab off. Then I used a solder to melt the ring around the tab and melt the nub left of the tab over the ring and so far it's been holding up well.