1989 Ford Ranger (manual trans M5OD) 2.9l engine swap to 4.0 from 94 Ford Explorer (auto trans)

[Brain75]

man I misread that - thanks robbied for repeating back which made it stand out to my brain.. I thought you got the wiring harness for a manual not an auto in your 2nd round.. So yeah there is some nonsense to do to fix that. Since it is not in "Park" that right there will get your no start issue....

 

[Rjack90]

Appreciate it. I will take a look. The wiring harness I am using is from a 91 ford ranger, big white plug included. I will try to find the diagram for that…. I didn’t end up using any of the wiring off the 94 explorer I just used it for hard parts valve covers, timing chain cover, engine oil pan, etc.

 

[Brain75]

I don't think the big white plug changed much (like 1 gauge on the cluster) over the life of the 2nd gen... but yeah there is some very slight changes. I keep forgetting that 2nd gen isn't just 89-92 rangers/explorers, but that explorer went a couple more years past that (93-94) so you are staying all "in the same generation" which makes this all but plug and play.

 

[Rjack90]

Hey robbied

I'd have to look at the diagrams, but on your "no start" condition I think the auto trans harness has a takeoff on the starter circuit after it comes through the firewall to run it down to the gear position sensor on the auto. If your truck was originally a manual, you should have the triple-function switch (clutch switch) already in place, and just need to jumper the auto harness.

Hey Robbie could you go into some more detail on this jumper the auto harness?

 

[Brain75]

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagram_StartingSystem1990.JPG

simpliest diagram I could find that shows what you are doing...

Find the pink and red/light blue stripe on Connector 163 and jumper the two together... As you can see in stock config on the manual the clutch switch keeps you safe and the auto parts don't exist, in your config you have parts of both, the clutch switch and the auto safety switch - you are just bypassing the "Park/Neutral" safety switch so it passes current through and the clutch switch still does the job.

 

[Rjack90]

Thank you. I will get working on this

 

[RobbieD]

Hey robbied

Hey Robbie could you go into some more detail on this jumper the auto harness?

Sorry; I'm late to the party. Just follow what @Brain75 posted.

 

[Rjack90]

Hey Fellas did the jump on the two wires. She cranks with the key but still no fire up and still no fuel past fuel pump regulator. Maybe stuck closed.
All of the other issues are still there. No lights on the rear what so ever. The fan controls is working like a dimmer switch on the back light with no air. Radio is getting power but not working.
Is it possible I have the wrong cpu? I ordered from parts geek and I am not very confident. I will attach a picture. The connectors all were very clean and hard to make a mistake when they only fit in one location.
One thing I forgot to mention was the 94 had a cam shaft synchronizer where the distributor would go in the back. The 91 wiring harness did not have a connector for one and I didn’t notice it at the junkyard. With the research I have done 91s just ran off cam position sensor and plugged that hole. I used the cam shaft synchronizer to plug my hole since I didn’t have anything else and just left it unplugged.
Just looking for your thoughts on next move.
If you are willing to make a phone call I think it would be an easier conversation on the phone otherwise no worries and will appreciate any help I can get.
Rick
(208) 670-0873

 

[Brain75]

I wasn't aware of much of any way to test a FPR, so I googled... apparently using a hand pump to rule out vac leaks on the vac line and a fuel pressure gauge to show consistent good readings is about it...

Testing Your Fuel Pressure Regulator: Tips and Techniques

The fuel pressure regulator is a vital component of your vehicle's fuel system, responsible for maintaining optimal fuel pressure for efficient engine performance. Testing the fuel pressure regulator is crucial, as it ensures the engine receives the correct amount of fuel, preventing issues like...

www.sitefuel.com

and a youtube that explains a whole bunch

If you don't think there is a gross air leak in the vac line (so bad it wont even open) then I would say time to spend the $$ on it.

 

[RobbieD]

Do you have an operable "Check Engine" light? If you do, it should light with key on, and go out as the engine starts running; this is the computer showing that it's receiving pulses from the crank sensor. It's a useful check for troubleshooting. It sounds like you've got gas at least to the FPR, but not spark and/or injectors. If the computer can't see the crank spinning, it doesn't know to fire the injectors or the coils.

The fan controls is working like a dimmer switch on the back light with no air. Radio is getting power but not working.

I know that getting the motor running is rightfully the first priority. But, your fan symptom especially, and possibly the radio, point toward a grounding problem.

It may be a good idea to review all of your grounding circuits before doing anything else, as "Lack of Ground is the root of most Electrical Evil" (according to the Good Book; it's in there somewhere I think).

If you also have grounding issues on the engine management and ignition side, you can chase your tail 'till the cows come home and tear out all of your hair to boot because you're looking at all of the wrong things.

 

[Brain75]

thinking along the lines of Robbie's ground chase... did you open the big white plug again and clean up the contacts/use a little dielectric?

 

[Rjack90]

Do you have an operable "Check Engine" light? If you do, it should light with key on, and go out as the engine starts running; this is the computer showing that it's receiving pulses from the crank sensor. It's a useful check for troubleshooting. It sounds like you've got gas at least to the FPR, but not spark and/or injectors. If the computer can't see the crank spinning, it doesn't know to fire the injectors or the coils.



I know that getting the motor running is rightfully the first priority. But, your fan symptom especially, and possibly the radio, point toward a grounding problem.

It may be a good idea to review all of your grounding circuits before doing anything else, as "Lack of Ground is the root of most Electrical Evil" (according to the Good Book; it's in there somewhere I think).

If you also have grounding issues on the engine management and ignition side, you can chase your tail 'till the cows come home and tear out all of your hair to boot because you're looking at all of the wrong things.

Thanks for the advice. I will go through all the grounds. Picking up a new fuel pressure reg tomorrow.
I do have a operable

 

[Rjack90]

I do have a check engine light when I go to start. It goes out when I start cranking. She never starts due to lack of fuel. I am getting spark. Pulled a plug to see it.
I am going through grounds now and will just start cleaning every connector.
I did spray out the big white plug with electronic cleaner, it had old dielectric grease. I will go through it thoroughly tomorrow but nothing obvious sticking out.

I also went back through the cpu harness and all looks good. Pins are in right spot and all clean connections.
I did not have a reference for what computer to get for the truck since all the wire harness was pulled from 91 ford ranger 4.0 auto at junkyard and the computer was already gone. Is there a chance that’s the wrong computer. I am having a hard time tracking down the numbers on the cpu I bought to confirm its identity.

 

[RobbieD]

Sounds like you've got a good handle on it.

You'll get it.

Good luck!

 

[SenorNoob]

I'm wondering if you don't have the same problem I did at first. I hooked the fuel lines up the way they fit easiest. Turned out that I had them backwards at the fuel rail. I had to cut the ends off at the rail and swap them to get fuel flowing.