Fuel tank for 1989 Ford ranger with 6ft bed.

[MaD]

OP posts pictures that clearly show an original plastic tank.


@MaD

I'd certainly check the top of the tank for the leak source before condeming it. Plastic tanks rarely spring a leak in the tank itself, unless its been punctured by something and that is typically on the bottom. I'd look for either a leaking seal, a broken/loose locking ring, or a rotted line letting fuel escape. Filler necks on these olders trucks are especially known to crack and leak with age.

Could have gotten a seal a little off when replacing the sending unit. Could have disturbed something when you did the work that lead to failure. May not have been anything wrong at the time, or anything you did during replacement, but seals and hoses can fail seeming at random. Especially so when dealing with this modern, ethanol loaded, fuel on older machines.

If you do determine the leakto actually be the tank, check out later model rangers as well. Up through 97 should have practically the same frame, so the tanks may fit with minor effort.

Ok, thanks for the information bro I will do that. I'm look over everything. Thanks!

 

[MaD]

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Aw man I never knew about this website, thanks!

 

[scotts90ranger]

If you got it full it would be way more common to have a leak at the filler neck or if you replaced the whole pump/sender unit I've seen pics of those broken too... on my '97 the filler neck is broken at the barb on the tank side, when I got it when I filled it up it would leak, bought a replacement but it was too short so I wrapped it with pipe wrap tape (nylon holds up to gasoline) and it's been that way for like 3 years and going... fixing it is on the list but not important at the moment, bigger fish to fry...

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If you got it full it would be way more common to have a leak at the filler neck or if you replaced the whole pump/sender unit I've seen pics of those broken too... on my '97 the filler neck is broken at the barb on the tank side, when I got it when I filled it up it would leak, bought a replacement but it was too short so I wrapped it with pipe wrap tape (nylon holds up to gasoline) and it's been that way for like 3 years and going... fixing it is on the list but not important at the moment, bigger fish to fry...

Yeah id for sure check the filler neck

 

[MaD]

Ok, I've dropped the tank and it's leaking from a knob that holds the heat shield. I'm upload pictures.

 

[MaD]

 

[MaD]

 

[MaD]

From the inside

 

[MaD]

What do you guys suggest I do?

 

[Brain75]

"officially" plastic tanks are not repairable... the marine (boat) folks have some products they use to patch onboard diesel/gas plastic tanks... I would start my hunt there cause unfortunately I have nothing beyond that for grate sage advice.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Myself I would trim the back side of that knob thing off on the side that's broken then go to Harbor Freight and get the soldering iron type plastic welder and go to town, HDPE is one of the more weldable plastics just don't be in a rush with that kit and let the heat do the job, don't force it or you will brake the tip off (I know from experience), the kit even comes with a bunch of extra filler material or use what you cut off and keep adding on top... I would gouge in with the tip so you get some "penetration".

That is unless a new tank is in the cards and findable... I'd still be tempted to try to fix it...

 

[JoshT]

First let me say that I have no experience with this.

Through my job I have access to fuel rated sealers that would work perfect to seal up that small crack. Unfortunately I can neither recommend it for your situation. It's an aerospace sealant and available to the public, but it would be cheaper for you to buy a new tank than to buy the sealant. Only reason I'd use it is because I cold carry the tank in and get one of the guys to use some of the left overs from sealing an aircraft.

Given your situation, I'd probably try some JB Plastic Weld. I probably give it a good cleaning, scuff up the surface of the tank with some sand paper to give it bite, then slather some JB plastic weld all over and around that plug.

In a different location I would suggest possibly using a plastic welder, but it might be a little difficult to get it in where that is at behind the "plug".

 

[Jazzer]

Good pics!

Not from my personal experience, but in the small engine repair industry many users find the JB Weld to be a temporary repair in contact with gasoline.

If you have a small patch of HDPE you can try this method also using the HF welder to press and smooth. Be sure the tank is completely fuel fume free, of course.

How To Weld HDPE - Hunker

You can weld HDPE, or high-density polyethylene, by heating the surfaces you're joining to the correct temperature with a heat gun, fusing the heated surfaces together, and then allowing the newly welded joint to cool.

www.hunker.com

if possible, I’d use the patch on the inside, or if not, grind the outside smooth first.

 

[MaD]

Thanks guys! I have some serious consideration to do. I'll probably cut the top of the knob to give me more room and weld the edges. Whatever I do I'll update.

 

[Brain75]

One of the ways we make sure the tank is fume free is to fill it completely full of water (we meaning the old 48-56 classics group)... that said, modern gasoline is hydrophillic meaning it LOVES water and grabs onto and bonds with it (ruining the gas) - that's the ethanol in the gas. If you don't get rid of the fumes, you are heating a bomb, if you use water (you got to fill it 101% full - no air) then you got to figure out some way to really really really dry it out afterwards.