1989 Ford Ranger 2.9L 4x4 Crank No Spark at Coil

[Stevenanderson]

Hello Forum members,

First of all I want to appreciate the forum creator for connecting Ranger owners. I am in need of some assistance getting my ranger back on the road. I am currently getting crank no start no spark at the coil. I have fuel at the rail checking the valve stem. I have a fully charged battery and with the help of the forum and similar websites was able to complete as many diagnostic using the multimeter and test light as possible.

I was able to test the connector at the TFI for 12V on run and for ground not start . I have 12V going to the coil and upon cranking 9V. With the test light I was able to see pulsing with at least a test light. The ranger has being in the family since new and the distributor and coil seem original. Because of the rush I purchased new cap and rotor because there was some corrosion on the cap.

I currently have no spark coming of the coil with a new wire. I installed a new distributor and coil and installed it a TDC. I have a secondary ignition switch thinking of installing but the truck is cranking and fuel pump is turning on.

Does the ignition switch pay a part in the spark issue?



Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Stevenanderson]

In addition, I am not getting a tachometer movement before and after installing the new distributor.

 

[RonD]

Cranking speed is about 200RPM so tach should move up a bit
Also if you have a CEL(check engine light) it will come on with the key then should go OFF when cranking, that means computer is getting spark pulse from TFI module

Yes, in 1989 there are still 2 wires from ignition switch to power spark system one for RUN and one for START, but if you got 12v key on and 9v, at the coil + terminal, while cranking both wires are working

You can spray fuel into the intake, 50/50 test, and see if engine starts
If it does then you have spark, but no fuel from injectors
If it doesn't fire/start that would confirm the No spark
Just a simple test that works on ANY gasoline engine, from a lawnmower to V12 engine
Spark or fuel(50/50) instant results

You have a TFI park system
Inside distributor is a magnet and Hall Effect sensor, the distributor shaft has a cylinder/cup with slots cut into it, as distributor shaft spins the "vanes" on the cylinder/cup cut off the magnet from the sensor, these are the spark pulses used by the TFI module, works the same as "points" did but no contact, so no wear

TFI module control the Coil's "-" terminal, and Grounds and unGrounds the coil to make it spark, this is also the Tach signal wire

Wiring diagram here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagram_Ignitionsystem_1989_2_9.JPG

The TFI is a self contained Spark system for start up, doesn't need the Computer at all when starting the engine
The timing pulse(spark pulse) is sent from TFI Module to the Computer so it knows how to time the fuel injectors, if computer gets this pulse CEL will go OFF

Computer does control spark advance, same as Vacuum advance on older model distributors, this is called the SPOUT wire, and its disconnected to set Base Spark timing, if/when you do that

So basically you have the sensor in distributor, the TFI module and the Coil, and of course the wiring that connects these units

TFI modules were/are a known issue, but when older, and "new" just means never ever..........ever tested, not "it works", so grain of salt for ANY "new" part

 

[Stevenanderson]

Thank you for responding RonD,

Good advice, The new distributor didn’t change anything regarding tachometer or spark at the coil.

I guess removing the old TFI from the distributor and performing those test should confirm it is the culprit.

I appreciate you taking the time respond to us members.

 

[RonD]

Do the 50/50 test, just takes a minute to do, use gasoline, Quick Start, carb cleaner, what ever you have that's flammable, lol

 

[Stevenanderson]

Thank you RonD,
First thing I did before checking for spark. Then I pulled 1# plug grounded with jumper cables and negative terminal no spark, checked spark at coil, notice the tachometer never moved. Checked I had fuel at the rails.
Oddly it started up for one day drove perfectly around Miami multiple stops no problem. Woke up next morning nothing since then I brought out multimeter and test light. I used test light to check for pulsing at the coil used phone to record close up while cranking saw light dim but I guess now that is the drop in voltage from 12v to 9v.
I really appreciate the content on the forums for some direction.
I see DIY all the time say don’t just start buying new parts plugs, coils wires without doing the diagnostic first.
I assumed it was the TFI. I am trying to customize a 7/32 socket now to take off the module right now to test from original distributor that I took out.
Last question when setting the timing it will start at TDC but do you recommend 10-12 degrees before TDC?

 

[RonD]

10deg BTDC is spec, most prefer 12deg BTDC
Engine needs to be fully warmed up, and SPOUT wire disconnected to set base spark timing

You can test any ignition Coil by hooking up a spark plug to it, do the jumper cable to ground to hold spark plug
Then turn on the key
If it has 2 wire connector on the coil unplug it and you should get a good bright spark
Or if Coil "-" has a single wire unhook it after key is on, and you should see a spark

Plug in and unplug connector
Or touch coils ground wire to "-" terminal and un-touch it
Repeat as much as needed to confirm coil has a good bright spark when its powered OFF
If it does then coil is OK

You can put test light on battery positive and coil's "-" wire, and should get a flashing light as TFI module grounds and unGrounds the coil when cranking
But putting the test light on coils "+" and "-" terminals should work just the same

I am sure you have checked it but................is the distributor turning?
I chased my tail on a Chevy engine with no spark...............the distributor gears roll pin had sheered off so distributor wasn't turning.............so no points opening and closing, yes it was a long long time ago, lol

If you haven't found this article yet its a good one on testing TFI system: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

There are two versions of TFI module, and they were color coded, Black(CCD) and Grey(push START)
Rangers all used the Grey modules
Black will not work with Ranger wiring

It looks more complicated than it is, lol
TFI module has 12v and Ground(START disables SPOUT)
(not that it matters but SPOUT adds about 10deg spark advance, so spark timing at idle would be 20-22deg BTDC with SPOUT connected, which is great for idling but harder to cold start an engine)

The distributor sensor is a Hall Effect type so has 12v and Ground(from TFI), 3rd wire shows 12v or 0v as the sensor sees or doesn't see the magnetic field, and that on/off is the Pulse(PIP)
TFI module Grounds and unGrounds the Coils "-" terminal based on the 12v/0v PIP pulse
And that's pretty much it


And good page here to Bookmark: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.shtml

Loads of "been there done that" articles from members here

 

[Stevenanderson]

10deg BTDC is spec, most prefer 12deg BTDC
Engine needs to be fully warmed up, and SPOUT wire disconnected to set base spark timing

You can test any ignition Coil by hooking up a spark plug to it, do the jumper cable to ground to hold spark plug
Then turn on the key
If it has 2 wire connector on the coil unplug it and you should get a good bright spark
Or if Coil "-" has a single wire unhook it after key is on, and you should see a spark

Plug in and unplug connector
Or touch coils ground wire to "-" terminal and un-touch it
Repeat as much as needed to confirm coil has a good bright spark when its powered OFF
If it does then coil is OK

You can put test light on battery positive and coil's "-" wire, and should get a flashing light as TFI module grounds and unGrounds the coil when cranking
But putting the test light on coils "+" and "-" terminals should work just the same

I am sure you have checked it but................is the distributor turning?
I chased my tail on a Chevy engine with no spark...............the distributor gears roll pin had sheered off so distributor wasn't turning.............so no points opening and closing, yes it was a long long time ago, lol

If you haven't found this article yet its a good one on testing TFI system: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

There are two versions of TFI module, and they were color coded, Black(CCD) and Grey(push START)
Rangers all used the Grey modules
Black will not work with Ranger wiring

It looks more complicated than it is, lol
TFI module has 12v and Ground(START disables SPOUT)
(not that it matters but SPOUT adds about 10deg spark advance, so spark timing at idle would be 20-22deg BTDC with SPOUT connected, which is great for idling but harder to cold start an engine)

The distributor sensor is a Hall Effect type so has 12v and Ground(from TFI), 3rd wire shows 12v or 0v as the sensor sees or doesn't see the magnetic field, and that on/off is the Pulse(PIP)
TFI module Grounds and unGrounds the Coils "-" terminal based on the 12v/0v PIP pulse
And that's pretty much it

 

[Stevenanderson]

Hey RonD,

I watched a video ended up pulling sprout and fires right up. Video indicated a low voltage fusible link preventing the EEC from firing at crank.
By any chance would you know where the fusible link in the wire harness location.
once the sprout is connected kills the spark.
Any chance you know location?