1988 samurai LWB build

[kris97ranger]

ok so its been real nice so ive been doing the more boring pain stuff that i wouldnt motivate myself to do in the rain. such as fixing the brake line that i knicked when i did the springs

first i went and found where the hole was again.

then i cut the bad spot out

B4 you do ANYTHING ELSE slide the new fitting over the line. if not you will get the flare on and it will be perfect and you get to cut it off and so it again lol.

next i cleaned the inside out making sure that the 3/16 flare die (whatever i dont know the technical name) fits inside the line, then clamp the line making sure that it sticks out the same as the width on the wide flat part of the die.

take the press and with the die in the line. (MAKE SURE ITS STRAIGHT) sqiush it down until the die hits the clamp.

then remove the die and the line should look like this

then press the clamp down on its own into the line to get the double flare you need. dont go too far with it though.

then repeat this prcess all over again on the other line if needed ( mine was in the middle of a line. so i had 3 connectors 2 males and a double sided female connector)

tighten it all back up and bleed the system. mine leaked a bit so i just snugged my fittings up and done! no leaks

 

[kris97ranger]

i probally coulda got away with a compression fitting. but considering the bouncing around this thing does and the mud and all that i figured id do it properly. plus it'll help when i go to the yota axles i can just change the last bit of the lines to work with the toyota wheel cylinders.

so so far my list is getting smaller

my fuel pump should be here tommorow or tuesday now i just have to clean this up....

and i was sufin pirate and found a truck i think i wanna copy. not this year at least not that im planning but maybe over next winter.

a few days ago i was toying with the idea of bobbing the bed to help out my departure angle but that defeats the whole reason i have the LWB if i bobbed it i wouldnt have the storage area for gear and camping equiptment. then i came across this and figured itd work the same. im going to stretch the wheelbase 6" (rear axle backwards) and move the wheel wells and everything so it matches. then the rear end is nice and close as if it were bobbed and i would be at 106" wheel base i think. on 38''S any thoughts? mostly to bones lol as it seems hes the only one paying attention to this

 

[Bennybooster]

I think it would be nice to stretch out the back, the extra length would be nice so you don't flop it backwards

 

[kris97ranger]

yup. well its already pretty good at climbing because it is the LWB version. so its about 24" longer thena regular samurai and thats all in the wheelbase. so the main reason im doing it is to get it so when i come off rocks ledges etc the bumper doesnt hit. and scince im not lifting it anymore to go the the 38"s i shouldnt have any problems with high centering.

i would be moving the rear axle back 6" then the new tires are going to be 2.75" closer together because im going up to a 38.5" over the 33"s i have now. so between front and back will be close to what it is now but with an almost 90 degree departure angle.

 

[Bennybooster]

yup. well its already pretty good at climbing because it is the LWB version. so its about 24" longer thena regular samurai and thats all in the wheelbase. so the main reason im doing it is to get it so when i come off rocks ledges etc the bumper doesnt hit. and scince im not lifting it anymore to go the the 38"s i shouldnt have any problems with high centering.

i would be moving the rear axle back 6" then the new tires are going to be 2.75" closer together because im going up to a 38.5" over the 33"s i have now. so between front and back will be close to what it is now but with an almost 90 degree departure angle.

Sounds like it should work out great then

 

[kris97ranger]

yea it should... im just debating on weather i want to swap in the yota axles and the 38s and then stretch it next winter when i have it in the shop to do the floors, or if i want to do it all at once. hmmm decisions decisions.

on a side note i finally got that sj from the beggining of this thread in my name today

now i can have a dd that i can scout trails with i just have to get it street legal and scince this truck is almost trail worthy again in this form i can start on the sj.

still waiting on this fuel pump...

 

[kris97ranger]

still waiting on the fuel pump and such... may go work on the sj a bit later on.

i have to get new head lights for it cause someone was nice enough to get overspray on them.... so im thinking of these.
http://www.kbcarstuff.com/UNIVERSAL-7-INCHES-ROUND-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-p/lhp7rndjm.htm

then some black soft 8's and 33" duratracs. it'll be like my ranger was but not a ranger lol

 

[BONES]

The wheel base stretch is in the cards for the BII eventually as well. Like you I don't want to loose any cargo cap. so that leaves a wheelbase stretch.

My problem is that my fuel tank is out back and I will need to address that obstacle when the stretch happens, isn't your tank out back too?

I really like this idea and the longer wheel base will help when climbing or descending steep hills.

When I FW SAS'd mine I moved the front diff forward 4" and drilled the leaf perch to move the rear diff 1.5" rearwards. Haven't measured the wheel base to see what I became tho.

I'd love to move the front another 4-6" forward for a couple reasons, first being v8 swap engine clearance, the second being better approach angle and move the rear back another 8-10" for better departure angle. Get me closer to 110-115" but still keeping the short body so basically have no over hang front and rear. 90degree approach and departure would be sick!

All that would be involved would be longer drive shaft, longer brake lines on frame, longer park brake cables if so equipped and move the upper shock mounts, then deal with moving the wheel tubs and making it look factory after.

 

[kris97ranger]

Yea my tank is out back as well but I almost think I have room to move it back an extra 6" as well. And all said and done I think I'd have A 106" wheelbase. I'm still debating stretching the front an inch or so as well just by re drilling perches like you said but I dunno if I need to. And I got my pump today and hood latches but photobucket is baing stubborn so no pics yet. The trucks still running for 5 seconds and shutting off then I get a bunch of air in the lines but I think I know why it sems here is a pin hole leak in the tank side of the pump so while it's trying to suck the fuel up it's sucking in air at the same time. Same as a crack in a drinking straw so I'm gonna try and seal that tommorow with some goop and hope that I don't have to drop the tank again. It shouldn't be a problem sealing it as it isn't on the pressure side of the pump. I just want to get out in the damn thing....

 

[kris97ranger]

so i just got back from town and picked up some JB weld. now i just have to find where the hole is.

and heres the pics from yesterday and a startup video cause i can

it was weird i think they shipped the pump with gas in it. i dunno why i just figured that wouldnt be allowed and it was

MY STICKERS! i have no use for them....

hood latch installed

and the startup video. i didnt shut it of thats it running outta gas

 

[BONES]

I like it a LOT!!!

I had thought about using a Ranger fuel tank in front of the rear axle when I do the rear stretch but since I don't already have one, I'm not sure how long they are or if it will even work. I do have a plastic Explorer fuel tank I was going to try and fit but it's really long. My biggest problem is I don't want an in-cab fuel cell. What if you mounted the tank in front of the rear axle, is there room to relocate it there?

I have a bunch of brake line issues I'm currently fixing too, broke a rear line at the frame mount where the rubber extends down to the axle, pinched it off on the trail with vice-grips to get home. Time to pull out the flare kit too.

You know I'm pretty sure the sami and Toy have the same brake line fittings already. Tho I could be wrong but seems to me we just reattached the brake lines on buddies Zook when we Toy axled it.

I really should get outside and wrench on mine, I just have no 'want' to do so.

I was out there the other day swapping out the stock A/C OBA compressor for the Yorks I picked up and even then I didn't 'want' to be working on it. You think that's a bad thing?

 

[kris97ranger]

I like it a LOT!!!
What if you mounted the tank in front of the rear axle, is there room to relocate it there?

i doubt it i think the driveshaft would hit it but im almost positive i have 6" to move the tank to the back 6" i already have enough evtra fuel line now that i have the external pump.

You know I'm pretty sure the sami and Toy have the same brake line fittings already. Tho I could be wrong but seems to me we just reattached the brake lines on buddies Zook when we Toy axled it.

im hoping so lol its not like its a big pain to redo them but id rather it just bolts up

I really should get outside and wrench on mine, I just have no 'want' to do so.

I was out there the other day swapping out the stock A/C OBA compressor for the Yorks I picked up and even then I didn't 'want' to be working on it. You think that's a bad thing?

yes you have a serious problem and should seek professional help. ive been wrenching on mine all winter in -20 weather and through the rain. plus your my insperation to do stuff on my junk the terrains you go on are the closest to mine from what ive seen on this site

 

[kris97ranger]

alright. so this morning i go out to start up the truck after the jb weld has set. you know maybe take a rip around the block head up to the reforestration a few minutes from here just to screw around and guess what






the thing doesnt friggin run....

like at all. not even start up and run for 5 seconds like b4. im getting so damn tired of this. i dont get it the damn thing ran when i parked it. then over the winter the fuel pump randomly died now it has a new one. and it ran kinda.... but was getting air in the lines, and would shut off after a bit. now i sealed the lines theres no leak and it doesnt start at all. wtf

so... i have 2 choices use my extra tank i have for a carbureted samurai that i can swap in but that means i have to drain the tank AGAIN and drop it then swap everything over.

or! i can drop this tank which means i still have to drain it and all that and make a new top plate for my pickup.

im thinking of going the second route because i was told that my sj has a fuel leak so i wanted to use my spare tank for that.

but to figure this out what im gonna do is take some fuel line and go from the pump to a jerry can instead of the gas tank that way i can see if the tank is the problem. problem with that is i need $ to get gas.... so im gonna have to wait till tuesday....

 

[BONES]

So your hearing the pump run when key gets turned on right? It should only make a sound for a few seconds while it primes up then should go quiet.

If your existing tank has a leak then by all means change it out, if your running an in-line pump outside the tank then there's no real reason to keep the leaking tank unless your carb tank doesn't have enough fuel ports, it's not hard to add a port if you can run a soldering torch if the sender plates aren't interchangeable.

Man O man, I'm trying my damnedest to work up some motivation here, the sun is helping. To be honest I keep looking at my Rover every time I go in for tools and really want to get back at her, but the bronco is way closer to wheeling.

I blew my shoulder out at work in January and haven't been able to do any wrenching, I'm going crazy now, need to do something that's not strenuous but gets me closer to wheeling again. The suns shinning today and we haven't seen any snow fall for at least 3 days. LOL, this has been a crazy spring here. I might have to bite the bullet and start calling in favors (hate asking for help...trust issues ) and get some help over here.

 

[kris97ranger]

Well the pump is on a switch but yes when I switch it on I car hear the pump come on And have taken the line coming out of of the pump off and the fuel barley comes out and there's a ton of air in it. It never goes quiet because it isn't priming. So I'll dea with that later on... It's been cold and rainy and I'm losing insperation with this thing considering I wanted it on the trail in December. And I k ow what you mean about getting "help" I'd rather just do everything myself one of two things happens I either just end up talking bullshit till the days over or end up re- doing everything once they leave. I've got one buddy wh is learning still and that all good we are redoing his 84 Nissan once he gets back from school with. A 350 and solid axles an 35"s but he can do all his learning on that lol. And then one other buddy who thinks he does way better work then he does and will not listen or take advice