1986 Ford Ranger 2.0 Idle/Stalling Problem Help!

[ianthegreat]

My factory setup had a metal line with rubber ends.

To convert to just the rubber hose, all you have to do is use a different fuel filter with a male rather than female end. Then it's just a hose clamp at the carb/fuel filter and one down at the pump.

$5-$7 for the filter, hose, and clamps. Then the angle of the metal line, threads, etc. are not critical. You just need to make sure you get fuel line hose so it doesn't disintegrate, but any parts store will have spools of it. High pressure hose is not required since this is for a carb application.

But the exit from the fuel pump is female. I purchased these fittings making them both male, then ran a worm clamped rubber hose between the two. I am leaking fuel at both places from the fitting connections.

I will buy this male ended fuel filter, but what should I do about the fuel pump connection (which is why I would like to know the correct fitting size, as the one I "thought" fit apparently did not!).

 

[RangerFabWorks]

where is it leaking from, the hose, or the thread?

did you use thread sealant on the threads?

 

[ianthegreat]

where is it leaking from, the hose, or the thread?

did you use thread sealant on the threads?

The fitting threads. Yes, I used thread tape.

Picked up a pump and filter.. I can make sure the threads inside the female ends aren't stripped also and will be able to match the correct fitting size in person.

Thanks for the help!!

 

[briansz]

But the exit from the fuel pump is female. I purchased these fittings making them both male, then ran a worm clamped rubber hose between the two. I am leaking fuel at both places from the fitting connections.

I will buy this male ended fuel filter, but what should I do about the fuel pump connection (which is why I would like to know the correct fitting size, as the one I "thought" fit apparently did not!).

Hmmm, by memory from several years ago my manual fuel pump had an integral male hose barb end for the rubber hose to connect to. I'll go look at the '84 2.3 sitting under a tarp in the back of the F100 and see if the fitting on that pump is male or female.


>>> OK, I just went out to the garage and looked at the late '70's Mustang 2.3 that's on my engine stand. It has a manual fuel pump with two male hose barbs sticking out of the bottom. I'll check the '84 Ranger motor tomorrow, it's tarped up pretty well and it's about ten degrees out right now.

 

[briansz]

Looked at the '84 Ranger 2.3 today. It has a manual fuel pump with a male hose barb end to the fuel tank and a female threaded hole like yours for the metal line up to the carb. No end to the variety, it seems.

I think when I bought fittings to adapt things once in the distant past, I bought NPT (pipe thread) fittings with hose barb ends. The NPT thread tapers and should seal up without drama, I don't remember leaking issues using regular hose clamps. In fact, I believe the male end of the fuel filter that threads into the carb body has a tapered NPT thread. That might tell you for sure.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

could always use male hose fittings for compressors and air tools.

i think those are the right size.

 

[ianthegreat]

Looked at the '84 Ranger 2.3 today. It has a manual fuel pump with a male hose barb end to the fuel tank and a female threaded hole like yours for the metal line up to the carb. No end to the variety, it seems.

I think when I bought fittings to adapt things once in the distant past, I bought NPT (pipe thread) fittings with hose barb ends. The NPT thread tapers and should seal up without drama, I don't remember leaking issues using regular hose clamps. In fact, I believe the male end of the fuel filter that threads into the carb body has a tapered NPT thread. That might tell you for sure.

That's what I purchased, NPT fittings. It was leaking through the threaded areas, not the clamps. Leads me to believe maybe the inside threads were also somewhat stripped.

Anyhow, the manual fuel pump and filter are so cheap it is worth it to replace all at once!

 

[ianthegreat]

Update: I've got a the new filter and fuel pump installed. No leaks this time from that area, but it is leaking fuel between the carb and egr manifold/intake manifold.

I knew this would be a problem because I could never get the nuts screwed down tight enough and wound up stripping them. Do any of you know the correct size of the nuts that hold the carb on the intake bolts? I purchased a couple awhile back but the threads were wrong so I wound up using the old ones again. I can't for the life of me tighten the nut closest to the valve cover. I can't get a socket extension down there straight enough. I know Ford sells a "specialty" tool for this, but aside from that, how do you all tighten that nut down?

This picture is a good example. The red circle is the driver side carb nut and the blue circle is where I see fuel coming from.

 

[briansz]

Here's what the service manual says to use:

Here's what I use:

It's available from Sears. 1/2" 6-point socket with integral universal joint. 3/8" drive.

The manifold holes the studs thread into are most certainly a metric thread, I just bought bolts on Friday night to attach my 2bbl adapter to it. Think it was 8mm or 10mm fine thread. Not sure what the top threads on the studs that the carb nuts turn down onto are, I will put a thread pitch gauge up to them tomorrow.

P.S. - 2bbl conversion works well, hint hint

 

[briansz]

OK, I had to go to the garage anyway.

The intake manifold studs are the same thread on both ends, so your carb nuts will be the same also. Metric 10mm, 1.5 thread pitch.

This means that the socket/universal in the picture above should probably be a 13mm if you want to be correct/split hairs, but I've never had an issue using the 1/2" one, and my YFA carb has been on/off a dozen times since I bought the truck. The nuts are still the original ones too.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Forget it and sell me your truck. I'll come down there and trailer it home.

GB

 

[ianthegreat]

It's available from Sears. 1/2" 6-point socket with integral universal joint. 3/8" drive.

The manifold holes the studs thread into are most certainly a metric thread, I just bought bolts on Friday night to attach my 2bbl adapter to it. Think it was 8mm or 10mm fine thread. Not sure what the top threads on the studs that the carb nuts turn down onto are, I will put a thread pitch gauge up to them tomorrow.

P.S. - 2bbl conversion works well, hint hint

I need this much help w/ tools and maintenance, there is no way I could make it through a 2bbl swap. Thank you!

 

[ianthegreat]

OK, I had to go to the garage anyway.

The intake manifold studs are the same thread on both ends, so your carb nuts will be the same also. Metric 10mm, 1.5 thread pitch.

This means that the socket/universal in the picture above should probably be a 13mm if you want to be correct/split hairs, but I've never had an issue using the 1/2" one, and my YFA carb has been on/off a dozen times since I bought the truck. The nuts are still the original ones too.

I can't thank you all enough for the help!

 

[Mark_88]

I need this much help w/ tools and maintenance, there is no way I could make it through a 2bbl swap. Thank you!

It's actually easier than you think...I did mine in about an hour...but, I must admit, the intake and carb came out as one piece so all I had to do was bolt it in and connect a few vac lines and the accelerator cable...

 

[briansz]

It took me a few hours since I swapped intakes and had to drain the rad and reroute the coolant lines to hook up the water choke. But honestly, I spent more time running down parts than I did doing the install.

If you've done the things mentioned in this thread, you are easily capable of the 2bbl swap.