1983 ranger won’t turn over

[Emerica1975]

I have a 1983 ranger with 2.8. Today I had to unscrew the fuse panel and move it to try to look at the wiring behind it. I disconnected the battery before starting and when I was through trying to see behind the panel I screwed it back in place hooked up the battery and then my engine wouldnt turn over. Not even a click. With the key in the on position the wipers work ,and heater fan comes on. But the starter won’t turn. I’ve never had a problem like this with this truck before so I’m sure I’ve somehow knocked a wire loose or I thought maybe since the nuetral safety switch on the clutch pedal arm is right there maybe I did something to it. But the switch seems ok atleast from a glance. The reason for removing the fuse panel was to search for a short that is occurring that has my taillight fuse blowing when I step on the brakes. But now the truck won’t even turn over. I’m hoping someone might have some advice on what I could have done when I moved that fuse panel around. Thanks!!

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

There is not a separate fuse for START

Do the dash lights also come on with key on?

Start at the other end to see if Starter Relay is OK
Starter Relay is on the inner fender in engine bay, often called starter solenoid
On it there will be a red/blue stripe wire on a smaller post, thats the "S" post, it will even have an "S" next to it, lol
When that post gets 12volts the relay will close and Starter will activate
Make SURE trans is in NEUTRAL!!!!!
Use a jumper wire from battery positive to the "S" post
Starter motor should activate
If so then try same thing with Key ON and engine should start
If engine doesn't start then there is also no power to engine systems from the ignition switch under the steering column

The red/blue wire comes from the ignition switch to the clutch switch, then thru the clutch switch to the firewall, thru the firewall and to the "S" post on starter relay

Ignition switch------clutch switch-------firewall-----------starter relay

The ignition switch has 12volts all the time from a Yellow wire, and if wipers and blower are working with key on but NOT key off then the Yellow wire is OK

 

[Emerica1975]

Thankyou for the help. I’ll go test the solenoid tomorrow and work backwards. I really appreciate the advice. I’ll post how it goes afterwards.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Thankyou for the help. I’ll go test the solenoid tomorrow and work backwards. I really appreciate the advice. I’ll post how it goes afterwards.

Make damn sure your battery connections are good.

Then after that....make double damn sure they are good.

Good as in...clean and tight.

 

[Shran]

Ignition switch is a common problem on our trucks, there is a metal piece clipped onto a plastic piece and there are several little metal fingers that hold the plastic piece in place. Over time these bend and cause the switch to come apart. You can clamp it back together in a vise and bend the fingers back to fix it. I've had this happen several times.

Clutch interlock switches go bad too. Truck should still start with the transmission in neutral. Last time I looked I couldn't find a replacement clutch switch though, discontinued. Easy to bypass, it's just two wires that you can connect together.

Could be something loose on the fuse panel too I suppose since you were messing with it. Ron's advice is perfect, you will figure it out.

 

[Terrys87]

View attachment 106648
My Ignition Switch was bad. So I just replaced it. Once I got it out I could see the end piece just needed to be put in the vice and tightened up. I still installed a new switch and now have a spare.View attachment 106649

From my thread and one issue same as you dealing with.

Also the Starter Solenoid nuts can come loose. What I do for the Starter Solenoid is to put the nuts in a vice and squeeze it just enough to give the nut a slight oval to it. This will keep the nuts from backing off.

 

[Emerica1975]

I had a chance to jump a wire from batt. Positive to the S post on starter solenoid and with the key turned on the truck started right up. So now I guess I need to trace that red/ blue stripe wire backwards.

 

[Emerica1975]

I just unplugged the clutch pedal cut out switch and jumped a wire between the 2 posts on the plug and the truck starts!! So I guess I’ll have to replace the clutch pedal switch. Now if I can only figure out why the tail light fuse blows whenever I step on the brake pedal. Thanks again for all the great advice and help. This sight is great!!!!

 

[RonD]

Check for trailer light wiring, drivers side rear
Over the years DIY splices take their toll

 

[Terrys87]

I would say 99% of wiring issues I have ever run into is Trailer light wiring that someone has cut and spliced. Like Ron D mentioned. The other issue applies to stereos that are wired in. If trailer light wiring is cut and spliced. Remove the aftermarket plug. Take it back to the way the factory had it. Strip wire, connect them, solder and then heat shrink. I still wrap my heat shrink with electrical tape. For Trailer and stereo wire kits are available that are plug and play and I have never had an issue with one of those.

 

[EDDIE.G]

I'm going to try and ask a question here so I am getting power on pin 30 for fuel pump relay is that normal it's getting power with both key on and off ? I would appreciate the help thanks

 

[Rick W]

I’m coming late to this.

I was going to say that if you can’t get the truck started, you can save all that time trying to fix the brake lights. Even if I was on time, that might not have been the most helpful thought However.

Anyway, There’s a lot of good history and advice and people on this site. Welcome aboard.