If you dont know what your talking About you shouldnt post misleading information, Or repeat what wqas already posted in the post before yours. It makes things more difficult for the people that are looking for serious info on a swap like this to acually find it, Thanks.
It is 100x the work of narrowing a dana 44, and takes some serious fab knowledge and welding ability to be able to do that much welding to the 1/8'' stamped steel housing and end up with a straight true product.
As I posted above, this is my opinion from experiencing this first hand. I'm trying not to take offence of your last post.
First off where is this post above that I repeated? Unless it was one of my older posts in this thread, then well....fine then, you got me repeating myself, oops.
Second off the housings on the toy mini truck 8" are 3/16 stamped steel, not 1/8th, maybe you should get your facts straight before posting "misleading information."
I'm pretty sure a 1/8th inch thick stamped steel axle housing would fold under the weight of the stock Toyota.
I prefer to do things the easy way if at all possible. Work smart not hard.
Third, when we did the one for my buddies Mazda, we cut and rotated the swivel balls IN the housing, flipped the dropout upside down by re-drilling 4 holes in the drop out that didn't line up for the flipped drop out and grind a notch on the flange top and bottom for the ring gear to pass through.
Hardest part was rotating the swivels around 180degrees and getting both sides lined up as close to perfect castor as we could, the swivel balls are pressed/inserted into the house ends a ways and don't need to come out if you can help it.
The only cuts to the housing "necessary" are roughly 3/16 of an inch deep all the way around the swivel ball weld at the ends of the housing so you can rotate the swivels upside down. Since the swivel housings are pressed into the housing ends you get a straight true product in the end. There was no camber change on this axle from start to finish nor was there any warpage.
Once your happy with your castor angles, weld the swivels back in as well as your suspension brackets/perches, then re-assemble making sure to put the knuckles back on the correct side of the vehicle and the rest is what ever aftermarket parts you want to add to your now drivers drop Toy axle.
This is EXACTLY what we did, no misleading information here.
He's been driving it this way for several years now with no problems. This project took the better part of a Sunday to disassemble, cut, rotate, drill, grind, weld and re-assemble.
That's the step by step of the job we did. Doesn't sound misleading to me. It's pretty straight forward imo.
Why it's taking you all this extra work is your deal man, not mine. The fact that your cutting the housing all up is why it's taking "serious fab knowledge and welding ability" and a ton of time and labour too I bet. This step certainly isn't necessary or maybe even safe, at least not for what we were after, again IMO. You do what you gotta do buddy and if all this extra work is to beef up the housing, that's cool, but it really doesn't need much beefing as far as I am concerned.
I've narrowed a d60 and a d44 and for me these were way more labour intensive, heavier parts, more cutting, more cleaning, more grinding.... ie. more work.
So I guess your not going to show us all what calipers and rotors you used??
Are you a vendor on here? I see you were trying to sell parts or a service in this thread?
If you want to compare notes, I'm game.
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