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What parts to change before installing salvage motor?


toms.abpg

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Just had a 1995 2.3 engine delivered for my 96 ranger, engine has 119k on it. So far I’ve ordered spark plugs, wires, timing belt and tensioner, water pump, and valve cover gasket. Some have mentioned doing a head gasket and crankshaft position sensor while it’s out, compression test good on all 4 cylinders, what do y’all think? Also if anyone has installed one or these, it looks like I can pretty much drop it in bolted together, alternator and all, though I’m not sure what part of the motor to connect the hoist too, any tips appreciated. When I pulled it I used the head bolts because the head was removed
 
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tomw

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lima bean
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I would not take the head off. I know that at some point in time, torque-to-yield bolts were factory installed, and that means if you remove the head you are into it for the cost of the gasket and 10 head bolts. They not cheap. Pull the spark plugs one at a time and examine the business end for evidence of oil, deposits, or the 'steam cleaned' effect of a leaking head gasket. Lots easier, and you can get a pretty good indication of the condition of the cylinders, pistons, rings and valves(stem seals too).
I would add a thermostat to the list of parts. I don't think I would do the idler / tensioner unless the bearings were dry or real 'loose' or noisy. If smooth, they should be fine.
FWIW, I would specify a full rubber cam cover gasket. The cork and cork-rubber gaskets just don't get the job done. They may do better if glued in place to the head or to the cover, but I have not had a lot of luck getting them to seal up and keep the oil where it is supposed to be. Maybe someone who has had better luck can post a good clue...
Most heads have two lifting rings/plates from the factory. One at the front drivers side of the cam cover, the other at the passenger rear corner. Other than that, spare threaded block or head fitting spots should do the job. I think you'd want at least a 5/16" size or larger, though I have no scientific reason to make that suggestion, it's just a supposition. IOW find a couple holes that are diagonal and at either end or close, and you should be good. Make sure the holes are not shallow.
tom
 
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Vehicle Year
1991
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Exactly what Tom said. I would add a thermostat as well they're dirt cheap and easy to replace. I would not take the head off either that's opening up another can of worms. The valve cover gasket should be a rubber Gasket. I would do the crank position sensor too. Check motor mounts as well while you have engine out. Last but not least check the oil pan gasket on the salvage motor if its anything like the 91 ranger 2.3 Its hell to replace once engine is on ask me how i know.
 

tomw

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1985
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ford
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lima bean
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
vertical and above ground
Check on the web for the exact model years for information on the 2.3 oil pan gasket that turns to rubberized little chunks in the pan. Those chunks/marbles/particles like to get sucked into the oil pump intake screen, at which time, the block the flow of oil. Pressure in the oil galleries drops and the bearings start to get hot, lifters to clatter, etc.
Only way to tell is to pull the pan, or use a coat hanger/wire to scrape across the bottom of the pan through the drain plug hole. See if you can get some goo of ground up looking gasket... If so, remove, clean and replace before installation.
tom
 

kimcrwbr1

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Pull the oil pan and replace the oil pump a new rear main seal would nt hurt either.
 

tinman_72

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2.5
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Oil pump is only accessible when the timing stuff is off, it comes out through the front of the motor. I wouldn't automatically change oil pump as they are crazy expensive for the '95 and up Limas.
 


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