Update**update**update

[Hardwareman]

I think I may have found my problem!

I followed your guys advice (thank you very much btw) and started by checking to see if there was a leak after the MAF sensor. I did'nt find any so I went ahead and removed the MAF sensor. I actually unbolted it from the housing and looked at it. IT DID have dirt on it so I grabbed my can of carb cleaner and cleaned it off.

The Ranger purred after that and the IAC valve even worked. When I disconnected the IAC valve at idle the engine rpm's NOTICEABLY dropped just like it should. The engine rpm's even compensated for the A/C compressor load when I turned the A/C on!

I took it out for a test run and when I got back I disconnected the IAC but the engine rpm's did'nt decrease this time, the engine did however compensate for the A/C compressor load still. Does the IAC valve work only when it need to? Should I test my MAF sensor cause it may be going out?

THANK YOU EVERYONE soooooo much for your help. Especially Joelzme for taking extra time and giving moral support. Actually everyone for their moral support. Now let's just hope she stays this way and I'm not jumping the gun here.




Allen

 

[Mark_88]

Good to hear...


maybe MAF stands for MajorA$$Funk because it causes more problems than you'd think for a little plastic blob with a vacuum line attached...

I used to carry a spare one in my Tempo after the first time I had problems with them...

 

[Hardwareman]

Thanks. Yeah, I just drove it into town again right now and there's no more misfire. I can't however get the IAC to work when I disconnect it so maybe I need a new MAF. Actually, I think I'll go out and clean it up again because the IAC was working perfectly right after that.

Yeah, you're absolutely right about the MAF causing problems you never though you'd have from such a sensor. The only problem is they cost about $150.00 brand new.........if I could find a used one.





Allen

 

[Hardwareman]

Ok all seems well still. Just drove her down to Staer Bros market to buy a couple of things for dinner and she's purring like a kitten.

I even went back out into the garage before I left and opend the hood again for good measure to recheck my IAC and she's still working. Engine bogs down pretty bad when I disconnect the IAC just like it should.

Dude I'm stoked right now. I can actually work on something else on the Ranger besdies the motor!!




Allen

 

[Mark_88]

Awesome! There's nothing quite like the relief of finally getting something to work right after struggling with it for seemingly endless hours...

Now if I could just get my carb to work right I would know exactly how you feel...

 

[rickcdewitt]

hows it compare to the 2.3l in the torque dept.? much power diff.? LOL you need to change your sig now too...

 

[Hardwareman]

Awesome! There's nothing quite like the relief of finally getting something to work right after struggling with it for seemingly endless hours...

Now if I could just get my carb to work right I would know exactly how you feel...

Thanks. Yeah, I read your post about your carb and something to do with your choke? You also said you had to break down and buy a specialty tool to test it too huh?

I hope you get it figured out Mark, my problem was a month long ordeal.





Allen

 

[Hardwareman]

hows it compare to the 2.3l in the torque dept.? much power diff.? LOL you need to change your sig now too...

I know, I'll do that as soon as I'm done posting this.........haha.

As far as torque/power increase, it's definitely noticeable but more so when climbing grades and hills. But I have to remember that my old 2.3 had like 360,000 miles on it. Got my money out of that one.

There are grades on the highway that I can take now in 5th (overdrive) all the way up without ever having to downshift. I could never take these grades before with my 2.3 without having to downshift into 4th. It's not really any quicker as far as I can tell yet and mileage seems to be about the same as well. Take care.




Allen

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks. Yeah, I read your post about your carb and something to do with your choke? You also said you had to break down and buy a specialty tool to test it too huh?

I hope you get it figured out Mark, my problem was a month long ordeal.

Allen

Thanks Allen. I've got it narrowed down now to the carb...whereas I wasn't sure before buying the vacuum tester/fuel pressure tester...and I've lost track of the time line since I put it back together and then noticed that it wouldn't idle (first it wouldn't start but I got that worked out).

It's probably been about two months for me though...not that I've been concentrating on it too much because it isn't my DD...that makes it really frustrating...as you already know from your own truck.

Shouldn't be too much longer now though...unfortunately, the JY where I buy all my toys is closed for the long weekend so it will have to wait till next month...but I might go "window shopping" during the week since they're only 20 minutes away...

 

[Hardwareman]

Spoke too soon I guess, GREMLINS are back. It's doing the same thing as before.

Since I cleaned out the MAF and it ran perfect for a bit do you think I need a new one? Thanks




Allen

 

[myold96]

the idle air control only works when the engine is cold after it warms up past the thermostat temp the computer doesn't need it any more until it gets below a certain temp.