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Toyo tires. Manual HUBS.


James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Just a note, Warn says 29071 and 29071B are the same thing. Of course they don't make either now, nor the old Jeep hubs and no plans to resurrect them.
NAPA claims they can deliver on 29071B but they are 100 more than MM which I already have coming and based on the fact the MM's seem to have a good rep I couldn't see trying to get the Warns for more money if they aren't any better. Plus I suspect when it comes time to deliver, NAPA probably doesn't actually have them. Plus if one hub went bad (probably wouldn't happen) and I wanted to replace just one side the chance of getting matching MM's is pretty good (right now anyway) but chance of getting Warns is pretty small.
Anyway that was my logic. I kind of wanted the Warn label, but based on what people say here the MM's are just fine and can't see paying 100 just for that if there's no functional difference.
Further comment let's say you wanted to carry a spare set (probably not necessary for me), if you got 2 sets you'd be out a ton with Warns (if you can get them) but not so much with MM's.
Kind of all irrelevant now, but leaves me curious whether NAPA really has the Warns. Done rant.
 


ericbphoto

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1993
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In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
You’ll probably find the crowd pretty evenly divided between oil and grease for the hub lubrication. Under normal circumstances, not much really moves in there. It’s just to make sure the parts don’t corrode and get stuck. You want it to move smoothly and easily when you turn the knob to the lock or free position.

In the free position, most of the hub rotates with the wheel. I think there is one piece in there that will stay stationary with the axle shaft. But there is no load on it. When the hub is locked, all the parts of the hub and the axle shaft Rotate together so there is no relative motion between Any of them.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Hubs came, they look great. I see how simple it is.
Conversion kit on way.
Hub socket been ordered like 10 days guess I'll have to cancel it - ebay.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Now I can't cancel the socket order and they aren't shipping it, another mess.
Here's the grease I got, looks like what I'd want (if I use grease, which I tend to). Just a little bit though. Says for bearings and sliding parts. Pretty high temp liquifaction and says good cold weather performance, though that's not a main concern.
IMG_3218.JPG
 

SenorNoob

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245-70-R16
I've had a used set of milemarkers on my truck since the axle swap. I put a little of my wheel bearing grease in them. Haven't had a problem yet.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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It was mentioned... sorry... right, I should not have to pull spindle to replace hubs.
Manual shows a couple tools they use, but enough people have done it so if I just follow what you've done I'll be fine. I think maybe slide hammer comes into it if you want to replace grease seal/repack bearings. Bearings should be new, although, dealer said they replaced 3 of 4 which seems bizarre and they didn't know which 3 but it should be obvious, I'd think, if one were bad.
I don't have front ABS so that's one less thing to worry about.
I posted the shop manual pages earlier in this thread. I think some of the tools they show, I don't need. Again, I'll just do what you all have done and the shop manual is somewhat helpful. Just trying to avoid having the thing apart then having to chase something, this should be do-able in an afternoon easily.
Then I won't have other half asking "why are you driving backwards" (that's how Ford says to unlock the auto hubs). I'd lock the hubs when going offroad, but leave it in 2wd until I need 4x4, then unlock after. I think that's the routine.
Thanks.
Yeah, it’s not needed for doing the hubs or bearings, but if you have to pull a spindle for the needle bearing in the spindle or for doing u-joints or axle shafts or whatever, the spindle tool and slide hammer make the job 900x nicer.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Ah, still pulling this together. Have the MM hubs and MM conversion kit. Have grease. Got an order in for the spline nut socket, imcommunicado, will have to report it on my card. Offer in on another one, no response yet. Probably am going to end up getting it from Summit, this should be equivalent to the K-D tool:
Performance Tool W1269 Performance Tool Spindle Nut Wrenches | Summit Racing

Last thing I *think* I need is the inch-lbs torque wrench, do I really need this and if so what's a reasonable one to get? It seems like something I would hardly ever use. As I understand it, the concern is you don't want the bearings overly tightened so you cinch up the nut then back it off and just barely tighten it then the pin keeps the thing from moving.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Transmission
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Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Dual-Direction Click Torque Wrench (10-150 in.-lb.) | TRQ21101 - - Amazon.com

I'm saying this one. MM says tighten the nut to 35 ft lbs then back it off 1/4 turn then tighten to 16 in lbs. Which is 1.5 ft lbs, or, almost nothing (but not nothing).

It seems like you could just take any arrangement that is putting 1.5 lbs of force at 1' from the center of the nut.
Then you put the lock washer onto the pin and you put the other nut and tighten it to 150 ft lbs, so, pretty darn tight, that I have a wrench for, but actually that's the highest setting.

I'm just wondering whether it's worth the money to have the actual tool for the 16 inch-lbs torquing.
 

sgtsandman

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TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Dual-Direction Click Torque Wrench (10-150 in.-lb.) | TRQ21101 - - Amazon.com

I'm saying this one. MM says tighten the nut to 35 ft lbs then back it off 1/4 turn then tighten to 16 in lbs. Which is 1.5 ft lbs, or, almost nothing (but not nothing).

It seems like you could just take any arrangement that is putting 1.5 lbs of force at 1' from the center of the nut.
Then you put the lock washer onto the pin and you put the other nut and tighten it to 150 ft lbs, so, pretty darn tight, that I have a wrench for, but actually that's the highest setting.

I'm just wondering whether it's worth the money to have the actual tool for the 16 inch-lbs torquing.
It is worth the money. Too much slop in guessing if enough torque or too much torque was applied with a ft lbs torque wrench.
 

Uncle Gump

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I wouldn't buy a click type inch lb torque wrench.

I feel the beam type is more useful. Like checking rotating force.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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If you ever plan on setting up ring and pinion gears an in/lb DIAL indicator would be a better buy. Or like Unc says, a beam style.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Ok, do you have any recommends on DIAL and beam types I should look at?
Edit: To me it looks like dial ones are more expensive by quite a bit. Click type I don't like all that much for something so fine. That leaves beam, and this one might be ok but in the picture you can't see it well. I don't know if ECGS is a reputable place. Presa brand is cheaper but Chinese.
It's important to see the indicator because some are calibrated 0-10-20 and some start at 20 so if I'm shooting for 15 in lbs I'm working pretty much at the bottom of the scale so finer calibration is better. US made is preferred... but whatever you all are using is probably what I'd do, and yes about possible use in setting up gears.
Inch Pound Torque Wrench (eastcoastgearsupply.com)
 
Last edited:

alwaysFlOoReD

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Ok, do you have any recommends on DIAL and beam types I should look at?
Edit: To me it looks like dial ones are more expensive by quite a bit. Click type I don't like all that much for something so fine. That leaves beam, and this one might be ok but in the picture you can't see it well. I don't know if ECGS is a reputable place. Presa brand is cheaper but Chinese.
It's important to see the indicator because some are calibrated 0-10-20 and some start at 20 so if I'm shooting for 15 in lbs I'm working pretty much at the bottom of the scale so finer calibration is better. US made is preferred... but whatever you all are using is probably what I'd do, and yes about possible use in setting up gears.
Inch Pound Torque Wrench (eastcoastgearsupply.com)
A beam style is as simple as it gets. Just buy the cheapest you can find with the COO that you like.
COO;
Country
Of
Origin
 

sgtsandman

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I agree, unless you are doing a lot of work that needs a dial indicating torque wrench, a beam type is a better buy. For differential work, you need something with a sweeping indicator rather than a click type. The click type is fine for installing fasteners and setting wheel bearings but not great for differential work since you need rotational resistance within a certain range rather than a specific torque setting. Just getting the rotational force with in the range can be frustrating, setting it to a specific torque and not go over that to would make the torque wrench click would be a nightmare.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Here's what ECGS has, I'd say it's Chinese. Might be hard to find US made, I'm open to suggestions about that if anybody knows.
Edit: Found some threads saying Neiko is like Harbor Freight and hit or miss as to quality. That's not encouraging.
I'm just missing a -good- beam inch-lbs wrench, it's holding me up from swapping the hubs.

thumbnail.jpg
 

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