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Timing a 1993 2.3L!


1993rangerxl

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Replaced timing belt, running but lacks power. Missing both halves of the timing cover, so no timing marks to reference. Any help would be great.
 


RonD

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Before retiming check compression, 160 to 170psi would be expected

Lack of power from timing belt being off by a tooth or 2 is because of lower compression.

Timing marks
2.3l crank shaft has a woodruff key it would be point up at 90deg to oil pan surface, 2.3l sits at an angle in the engine bay, so oil pan surface isn't "level"
AUX gear mark would be at 12:00

CAM gear mark is at about 4:00, there a mark on engine that you line it up with

Drawing here: https://motogurumag.com/i/ford-23l-lima-t74p6254b-cam-amp-auxiliary-shaft-sprockets-remover-khFEoXi.png
 

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Did you just recently start posting under a new user ID? I remember the picture in your avatar but the user name doesn't ring any bells...maybe I'm just getting old but my mind does work right some time...at least twice a day like a broken clock :).

Was the engine lacking power before the belt change or is this a recent revival of a non running engine or engine swap? If it was OK before and you just wanted or needed to change the belt then compression test may not tell you much...but good to know either way as a benchmark of sorts.
 

1993rangerxl

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I've owned this truck for 20 years, no I'm not new on here either. Was running well before the belt change, have been messing with it since. Since the belt was changed oil cunsumption has gone through the roof, quart every 150-200 miles, out the exhaust. Haven't done a compression test yet. Has 375K miles on original motor. Gas mileage dropped from 20 down to 16 mpg.
 

1993rangerxl

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Also every electrical component under the hood is original!
 

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Ah, well, I probably don't have as great a memory as I thought...

Anyway...sounds like more than just a timing issue. Although it might be that the timing is off just enough to allow the combustion and exhaust to blow into the engine and forece the oil out through every opening in the engine (I've had this happen but it never got better).

did you happen to remove the cam bolt in the process of timing the engine? There is a seal on that bolt that will allow oil to flow out the front of the engine if you do not seal it properly.

Also check for drips by putting something under the engine during or after running it to see if you are getting drops. A good indication of blow by or main seal leaks.

If you are getting smoke out the tailpipe then it could indicate valves or rings need an overhaul...with that high mileage its getting close to that time possibly.

If you are timing the engine with a light you do need to remove the SPOUT connector or your timing will appear way too high...the SPOUT disconnect will show the true engine timing...
 

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Timing with the SPOUT connector removed should be 10BTDC. The keyway in the crankshaft will be at 12:00 with the engine at TDC. If you have a distributor, remove th3 SPOUT jumper and then you can remove the coil wire from the center connector on the cap, and place it near a grounded surface. Turn the key to ON, and rotate the distributor to get the coil to fire. You can rotate it 'past' where it would fire, and then rotate it back so it seems the rotor is moving past the pickup. You want the coil to fire about 10 degrees earlier, and you should be able to get pretty close using a piece of cardboard and a protractor. Map out a 90 degree sweep on cardboard, and hold it over the distributor. Note a landmark, and rotate the distributor 10 degrees by eyeball, or do the same on the crankshaft, moving the shaft and then making the distributor fire the coil, then lock it down. You should be able to get within a few degrees, better than guessing.
tom
 

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When my timing light broke, I switched to a vacuum gauge and never looked back. Piece of cake , just tune to highest vacuum. :D
 

1993rangerxl

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A lot of good info if it only had those parts. Has dual plugs and coil paks. The scale at the crank is gone with the timing cover. The oil consumption came with replacing the timing belt, why I believe it's off just a bit was hoping someone might have a clear picture of one in correct time with the covers off. Didn't take the bolt out of the cam so no leak there. Have never taken off the crank pulley always worked the belt past it.
 

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If you can see the keyway in the nose of the crankshaft(remove the outer pulley?) and the cam & aux shaft sprockets, you can line up the cam timing. The key should be as 12:00, the cam triangle at the pointer(about 4:00), and the aux shaft at... I dunno, sorry. I think there is a mark on the edge of the sprocket that should line up with a pointer/mark on the face of the engine. Search here for proper instructions. I'm trying to remember if the keyway went all the way to the tip of the crankshaft nose. You'd have to remove the bolt to gain visual access, but not necessarily the pulley/damper.
tom
 

1993rangerxl

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Thanks for the info and help with this. I will be trying to get this right over the next few days.
 

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The dot on the crank sprocket dot is not vertical, it points to some sensor I think? Anyways, just make sure the crank keyway is straight up.

You Cam Position Sensor is on the lower sprocket, along with your oil pump. So timing of this gear is also critical, it is not just an idler. I made that mistake with mine, it ran worse and worse for about 20,000 miles, had it apart like 4 times, finally after the engine started trying to escape from under the hood under full throttle did I finally realize there were two different marks on the gear under all the grime, I had been lining it up with the wrong mark (triangle). The actual camshaft (top gear) is Triangle to Triangle, bottom right gear is Diamond to Diamond. Still driving that engine, but power is nowhere near what it was.

It looks like if you match the gears up with the same orientation to eachother you should be good. I believe the camshaft is also keyway straight up, but I would like someone else to confirm that.

 
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