• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Sounds like a belt chirp

professor229

Active Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2021
Messages
119
Reaction score
70
Points
28
Location
Minnesota
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
I thought about this chirp all the way to the lake.... and AlwaysFloored said it best... The chirp gets faster/slower relative to the gas pedal.... and 40 years ago I would have figured this out a lot faster... A lot of our golf course equipment had a grease zerk on the U joint knuckles... and some older vehicles also had this... I don't know if a Ranger has a grease zerk or not but the U joints drying out make more sense than the rear wheel axle bearing... .. To be continued... need to do some looking....
 


RonD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
22,669
Reaction score
5,785
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Most Factory u-joints, tie-rods, ball joints or other greased parts are called "lifetime parts", in car maker terms thats 100k miles
So no re-grease fittings, Zerk fittings

You can get replacement parts that have Zerk fittings
 

Jazzer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2018
Messages
481
Reaction score
312
Points
63
Location
Indianapolis
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Does the chirp go faster/slower in every gear?
 

dvdswan

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Feb 11, 2021
Messages
2,289
Reaction score
1,919
Points
113
Location
Seattle, WA
Vehicle Year
1991
Make / Model
Ranger XLT 2WD
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
Does the chirp go faster/slower in every gear?
Yes, follows rpms not speed. so as the rpms rise, chirp is faster.
 

Eddo Rogue

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
3,213
Reaction score
1,643
Points
113
Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
I also vote cam synchro.
 

RonD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
22,669
Reaction score
5,785
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
If we are voting then I vote "loose NUT holding onto steering wheel" 95% of my issues come down to this one thing :)
 

dvdswan

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Feb 11, 2021
Messages
2,289
Reaction score
1,919
Points
113
Location
Seattle, WA
Vehicle Year
1991
Make / Model
Ranger XLT 2WD
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
I don't know how many times I've heard that. ;missingteeth;
 

dvdswan

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Feb 11, 2021
Messages
2,289
Reaction score
1,919
Points
113
Location
Seattle, WA
Vehicle Year
1991
Make / Model
Ranger XLT 2WD
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
So, does my year have a CMP or is it the stator in the distributor doing the work of the CMP?
 

RonD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
22,669
Reaction score
5,785
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Distributor signal is the cam signal

With distributorless systems the crank sensor is the timing signal, cam sensors were added for better MPG in fine tuning injector opening to when intake valve opens
 

mtnrgr

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2007
Messages
438
Reaction score
532
Points
93
Location
California
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
6" Skyjacker, with 1.5" coil spacers, custom radius arms, custom traction bars
Tire Size
31x10.50
My credo
Lord God is my guardian
Your ranger 3.0 has a distributor, was used on the 3.0 until 94. In 95 ford changed to an actual sensor, and got rid of the distributor. The sensor on the distributor, can be replaced, most are junk. Best thing is replace the whole distributor assembly with a good brand or have yours rebuilt.

Here is an old school trick, on a cold engine remove the distributor cap and spray some WD-40 all around the shaft ..wipe off the access of the spray. Let it soak in for at 30 mins...install the cap back within the 30 mins. Start the engine, and the noise is gone, it was a dry distributor bushing. If noise is still there then it's something else. This is a way to rule out whether the distributor is bad or not
 

professor229

Active Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2021
Messages
119
Reaction score
70
Points
28
Location
Minnesota
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
I thought about this chirp all the way to the lake.... and AlwaysFloored said it best... The chirp gets faster/slower relative to the gas pedal.... and 40 years ago I would have figured this out a lot faster... A lot of our golf course equipment had a grease zerk on the U joint knuckles... and some older vehicles also had this... I don't know if a Ranger has a grease zerk or not but the U joints drying out make more sense than the rear wheel axle bearing... .. To be continued... need to do some looking....
I have eliminated the cam sensor and idler pulley/belts etc. because the chirp is not coming from the engine compartment.... and you can open the hood and rev the engine all day and there is no chirp... drop the shift lever in gear and start driving and the chirp is very pronounced and the chirp sound gets faster as your speed increases and as soon as the Ranger shifts into second gear, the chirp becomes less obvious and hard to hear... but it is still there... In other words, when there is pressure on the gas pedal, at lower speeds, the chirp is clear..... since the sound is from the middle back of the cab, it has to be a moving part such as an axle shaft, bearing, or U joint.... I am guessing U joint and now it is time to watch You Tube videos on how to work on a Ranger drive shaft.... Is a Ranger drive shaft easy to work on?
 

alwaysFlOoReD

Forum Staff Member
Forum Moderator
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
12,470
Reaction score
3,457
Points
113
Location
Calgary, Canada
Vehicle Year
'91, '80, '06
Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Yes, the rear is the same as any other driveshaft. The front if 4x4 is slightly more difficult.
 

professor229

Active Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2021
Messages
119
Reaction score
70
Points
28
Location
Minnesota
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
I watched a video of a "collar" on the driveshaft that had come loose and the guy removed the collar and said this was a common problem on Rangers with over 100K miles on them and most times, they are not replaced.... They are simply a means to balance the drive shaft with holes drilled in them to adjust for balance.... Another guy wrote in that he didn't bother removing the shaft to take this collar off but instead, used a grinder/cut off tool to simply cut it off..... I don't even know if this is the problem but need to physically look at my driveshaft and then perhaps farm this out to a local mechanic and pay the price... It would be nice to have a hoist to actually run the truck on the hoist to determine what/where the noise is coming from.... I will have to pay this time but fixed the transmission shift lever myself and also installed new brakes in the rear by myself so I am ahead of the game already..... Need to look... am in no hurry and this simply pulls a small boat trailer 5 miles back and forth to a lake twice a week so it is NOT a big deal and speeds never get over 30 mph ........ so I can live with the chirp awhile longer.... but wonder if it is the U joints or this balancer thing.....
 

alwaysFlOoReD

Forum Staff Member
Forum Moderator
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
12,470
Reaction score
3,457
Points
113
Location
Calgary, Canada
Vehicle Year
'91, '80, '06
Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I've done driveshaft u-joints in my driveway using sockets and a hammer. One big socket that the end cap will fit into, and one small socket that is slightly smaller than the end cap.
Tho getting it done at a shop has its appeals too. Pull the driveshaft out yourself and take it to the mechanic. Shouldnt take him more than 30-60 minutes to swap them out.
 

professor229

Active Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2021
Messages
119
Reaction score
70
Points
28
Location
Minnesota
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
Hey... don't have to..... I fabricated a part of my son's tractor's hydraulic joystick and that went so well that I crawled under the Ranger in the driveway to take a look and saw two things immediately... one, there was some kind of "lube" that had been sprayed on the front and rear of the drive shaft by the U joints by "someone" before me.... and two, the balancer device had already been removed so someone had this problem before...... and what is left is some kind of a rubber gasket by the back U joint.... so I got out my bike "chain lube" and sprayed the passenger side with this on the front and back U joint areas..... but could not get to the driver's side in the driveway... unhooked the boat trailer and took it for a ride..... I knew before I left the driveway that this solved the problem and whatever was chirping, is lubricated enough and there is a slight chirp yet, so will lubricate this real good on both sides before I head to the lake on Monday..... geez, sometimes you just gotta get lucky....
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Top