Scangauge Coolant Readings For Our 2.3

[Oh2Ranger]

Ive recently had a ScanGaugeII in my truck for about a month, and noticed right away a very high water temp reading. It varies, somewhere between 240-260*, although I have seen it in the 270*s at one point. I drained the radiator, and topped it off, (not an entire flush, just drain and fill) to see if that helped drop the numbers, it seemed, to help a little bit, but not what I would assume to be normal operating temps. The gauge on the instrument cluster has never moved past half way, and works well and operates while warming up (meaning its not stuck in one position). Never had any codes, or anything that would make me believe the truck is running hot. I wouldn't have any idea if it wasn't for the scan gauge itself.

Ive been doing some reading as best I can across the board, reading that our temp. sender is in the head of the engine, and that's why it's reading so hot. Isn't that even so, still too hot for the head? So I went to X-Gauge, and configured my scan gauge to read my CHT (cylinder head temp) After doing so, I viewed the gauges and it shows that the CHT is a few degrees higher than what the water temperature is said to be. Because these aren't the same numbers, can we rule out the idea that the water temp the scan gauge reads by default is reading from the head?

Kinda has me worried about the condition of everything, although when I bring it up with anyone else, they say that I would get a code or the gauge would peg hot, even if it was a dummy gauge so I shouldn't be alarmed.

I was hoping to see what fellow duratecr's were pulling for water temps, so I can see how far off I am. I live in WA, and the temps have been around the 60-70's nothing insane.

I believe the fans are working just fine..

anyone have any numbers to throw my way?? What are your temps?

 

[bobbywalter]

did you try a different temp sender? i usually buy gauges that i keep on the bench to test sensors....you couls tee into the oem ecm sender and see what a real gauge reports first...

 

[Oh2Ranger]

Do you mean like a autometer gauge?

 

[igotranover]

overheating

the reading on my work ranger is 186 to 194 degrees, its a 2005 ranger 2.3L. My personal vehicle is a 2004 ranger with the same problems as yours. 255 degrees ive even seen it go up to 290 on my scan tool. Lower radiator hose is cold, upper is smoking hot. new radiater, water pump, and 3 thermastats later and still does the same thing. Took to a shop to have it pressure filled with radiator fluid thinking that there might have been a pocket of air when I filled it. NOPE still has the same problem. Help me before I shoot my self. If anyone is a ford dealer mechanic im sure you have ran into this before. by the way if I take my thermostat off and gut it out and bolt it back on, the truck runs perfect but to cold and sets off the check engine light for coolent temp. to low

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

the reading on my work ranger is 186 to 194 degrees, its a 2005 ranger 2.3L. My personal vehicle is a 2004 ranger with the same problems as yours. 255 degrees ive even seen it go up to 290 on my scan tool. Lower radiator hose is cold, upper is smoking hot. new radiater, water pump, and 3 thermastats later and still does the same thing. Took to a shop to have it pressure filled with radiator fluid thinking that there might have been a pocket of air when I filled it. NOPE still has the same problem. Help me before I shoot my self. If anyone is a ford dealer mechanic im sure you have ran into this before. by the way if I take my thermostat off and gut it out and bolt it back on, the truck runs perfect but to cold and sets off the check engine light for coolent temp. to low

your first post is a hijack. i suspect you're putting t-stats in wrong

OP:

don't trust sensors. you need to measure the actual temperature of the engine coolant at the therostat housing or directly on the coolant sensor.

i've run into a lot of cyl head temp sensors reading way too high and causign the engine to run lean or die. once i had one instantly jump to 500degrees and back down to -40 degrees.. the engine died, but was not overheating at all