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Really, really bad forced induction idea...

PetroleumJunkie412

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Tack, tack, tack. Then run-out gauge again. 3 more tacks in between and run-out gauge again. Then you should be fine to finish welding. Its surprising how much shrinking weld will pull the metal.

You got it!

Literally didn't sleep last night over this one. Been looking for a solution for this for how freaking long.
 


PetroleumJunkie412

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Well, here goes nothing...

_20190902_003026.JPG
 

Dirtman

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I don't have enough faith in my vice grip snake dial indicator stand to trust it to do that job... maybe it's just me.

You don't have access to a lathe? How close are you looking to get that? Not doubting your mad scientist skills junkie... but maybe adapt it to a drill press and firm up the dial indicator.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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I don't have enough faith in my vice grip snake dial indicator stand to trust it to do that job... maybe it's just me.

You don't have access to a lathe? How close are you looking to get that? Not doubting your mad scientist skills junkie... but maybe adapt it to a drill press and firm up the dial indicator.
No access to a lathe. Really wish I did. This would be a lot safer/easier.

You should be doubting my skills on this one, haha. Best I can do with tools I have/have access to.

Unless someone reading this has a lathe and wants to volunteer, best I can do. ?
 

Dsetz

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Would it be potentially more accurate to just cut off the 2.9 flange, cut a nice accurate circle in the 3.8 flange and insert the 2.9, then weld? Then you would be dealing with a single plane instead of potentially multiple on the circle?

Either way, if it don't work, sounds like a lot of shops will tackle it for a reasonable price.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Would it be potentially more accurate to just cut off the 2.9 flange, cut a nice accurate circle in the 3.8 flange and insert the 2.9, then weld? Then you would be dealing with a single plane instead of potentially multiple on the circle?

Either way, if it don't work, sounds like a lot of shops will tackle it for a reasonable price.
It would theoretically be possible.

Wish I could find a shop that would make/modify one for less than $250-500. That's the quotes I've gotten.
 

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Wow that's too much $$.
On the same line of thinking, if the center holes are the same, just weld up the 3.8 flange flat and drill new bolt holes with the 2.9 as a pilot with them cinched together?
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Wish I could. The one photo shows the center bore differences. The 3.8 pulley bore is larger than the 2.9 bolt pattern
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Well. With the runout gauge, I have it down to 0.006" of movement. Hoping that's good. Took me.an hour or two to get this far
 

Dirtman

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6 thousandths is more than fine for a belt pulley....
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Well. 0.006" would up being 0.025" in the end. Oh. And the welder ran out of gas on a freaking holiday.

Either way. I present the 3.2.9.8 crank pulley.

Enjoy this flux core welded contraption being run by a cordless drill. Still need to balance it, but will have to hold off till I get welding gas and finish welding.

 

Dirtman

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Looks smoother than alot of factory pulleys I've seen... SEND IT!
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Looks smoother than alot of factory pulleys I've seen... SEND IT!
Oh. Yeah. Full on Larry Enticer send is inbound.

Not bad for electrical tape and a sledgehammer.

No joke. Tape-tack-whack over and over.
 

Dirtman

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I've done plenty of extremely tight tolerance welding jobs in the back of a truck without my fancy measuring tools and positioning tables. Patience, cool down time, tiny tacks, and lots of little wacks. Sometimes some clever use of clamps.

I don't know if I would have the guts do that with flux core though (or regular mig for that matter) but looks like you got it pretty much perfect. (I just dont weld with mig anymore).
 

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