Really, really bad forced induction idea...


PetroleumJunkie412

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Your devotion to this is truly inspiring. I keep watching your progress, hoping you get it. IT, being whatever it is you're doing with the methanol/water thingy-ma-bob and the supercharger "stuff". :pray:

Appreciate it. Wouldn't be doing this if not for TRS. Yinz are the best group of automotive enthusiasts I've ever met.

Also, as soon as I found out KaP and I rolled off the line on the same day, yep, that was it. Keeping it till we both get put in the ground.*












*I constantly remind the truck to not get any ideas about setting a date for that one.
 


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Dsetz

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Sweeeet!
The brits are claiming a 2.9 bottom end will hold to .8 bar, so I'd guess the m90 wouldn't be too much.
Though it sounds like water meth injection thru the SC is INCREDIBLY efficient at keeping roots blowers cool at high rpm. I was reading about a Miata guy going up to 18k with sustainable temps. Though he basically was at progressive v8 injection levels.
I came across a very elegant meth20 injection scheme that injected a small amount all the time, more to quell knock under load, and a 3rd line to the turbo.
I've got a supply of shur Flo pumps on hand, think I'm going to start adding these to my NA motors too, keep us updated on how it does NA?
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Sweeeet!
The brits are claiming a 2.9 bottom end will hold to .8 bar, so I'd guess the m90 wouldn't be too much.
Though it sounds like water meth injection thru the SC is INCREDIBLY efficient at keeping roots blowers cool at high rpm. I was reading about a Miata guy going up to 18k with sustainable temps. Though he basically was at progressive v8 injection levels.
I came across a very elegant meth20 injection scheme that injected a small amount all the time, more to quell knock under load, and a 3rd line to the turbo.
I've got a supply of shur Flo pumps on hand, think I'm going to start adding these to my NA motors too, keep us updated on how it does NA?
I'll keep ya'll posted on the n/a operation. This was overall blindingly easy to do once I relocated some crap.

Mind sharing the link on the injection scheme? Right now mine is tied to RPMs and TPS only (has to be at more than 2500 rpm and WOT). Was trying to see how to control the pump so that I was taking full advantage and running water/methanol any time the engine was experiencing knock. Thought about tying a knock sensor trigger in. Problem is I either have max flow, or none, and my nozzle is set up for cooling a blower (way too big).
 

Dsetz

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It was only an example written by a company for this product.
Which is really just a 10-60 psi pressure switch, wouldn't serve a NA purpose.
(Although I see the link is saying 2-20)

My initial guess without more research is a 12 v controller or module piggybacked off the map/injector sensor 0-5 voltage.

I believe that programmable map sensor I'd linked in a recent PM can serve that function. Ill keep looking for other alternatives. Cheap ones.

If your using a Shur Flo(probably any pump) it probably needs to be a pressure switched model to run a variable rate all the time. Otherwise the pump runs constantly and burns out.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Megasquirt does all that for free... Lol
 

Dsetz

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I think MS pay's you! :LOL:
I'm sold. Still want to figure out variable rate.
Snow performance is very free with their meth20 advice.
 

Dsetz

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Here's an option.
E85 fuel injector as a nozzle, slaved to the 2nd injection MS port, running off your IDC tables.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Dug up more photos from UK Sprintex supercharged 2.9s. Apparently there were only 10-12 of them built. Cool. Looks like I'm truly walking a road few have been down.
 

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PetroleumJunkie412

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I think I have a belt solution. Just need advice from a better fabricator than myself.

This is a 2.9 crank pulley nested inside of a 3.8 crank pulley.

_20190831_191234.JPG


I'm curious if it would be possible to perfectly center the 2.9 pulley inside of the 3.8 pulley, weld them together, and trim away the mounts of the 3.8 pulley. That would give me the radius I need of the one from the 3.8, and the bolt pattern I need from the 2.9.

Any advice on how to do this? Literally thought about wrapping the 2.9 pulley in electrical tape as a means to center it.
 

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Know anyone with a lathe?
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Here's an idea. Turns out the 2.9 pulley will bolt through the 3.8 one with long bolts. Use dowel pins to set the gap the whole way around (12mm socket feels perfect) and weld in place. Trim away the back of the 3.8 pulley after welding front and weld inside. Use lawnmower blade balancer to balance.

I may be able to get within a few thousandths like this.

_20190831_211332.JPG
_20190831_211308.JPG
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Son. Of. A. Bitch.

I think this may work.

Someone please poke holes in this before I weld it. Going to check it with calipers in the morning. If I'm within 0.002" the whole way around, I'm guessing I'm ok.

It's gapped out with three identical OD sockets all sitting equally snug, and bolted down evenly and with equal torque. If it's rested flat inside and equal gapped, I'm going to weld it and chuck it up on a drill or something after I cut and balance it.

Damnit if this works I'm in business. It's a 2:1 drive ratio. I'll have to trim the ac drive off of the water pump pulley. But damnit this may work.

_20190831_220823.JPG
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Dad had an even better idea. Mount it on the dummy engine, use his runout gauge on it to check for concenteicity on the x and y axis. If its concentric, weld the SOB.

Holy crap. Dodge guys may have gotten this one down for me. They use the 3.8 crank pulleys for attaching the M90 blowers to slant 6 engines. Thanks Dodge! I'll be home soon!
 

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Tack, tack, tack. Then run-out gauge again. 3 more tacks in between and run-out gauge again. Then you should be fine to finish welding. Its surprising how much shrinking weld will pull the metal.
 


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