PCV Valve Location

[vigness]

OK, my search skills SUCK. Did a search and came up with six pages, and I didn't find anything.

2003 4x4 FX4 with a 4.0.

Where's the damn PCV valve? I see all sorts of videos on the 3.0, but can't seem to find anything on the ranger 4.0. I know what the valve looks like, the usual thing but add the coolant lines around it. I'm probably staring right at it, but somebody tell me what side / front back center to look at and maybe I'll find it.

 

[RonD]

It will be on the driver's side valve cover top, toward the back

It may be a heated version so have an electrical connector or 2 small coolant hoses
Its a twist lock fitting and can be VERY brittle, so don't force, or you will need to get a new valve cover, lol, the PCV Valve is never the part that breaks

The 2 hose heater just clips off the PCV valve and clips on to the new one

 

[vigness]

The pic on rockauto shows a coolant tube wrap. I'm going down the list to track down a lean condition on both bank when under power.

Already put a new fuel filter in, pulled a Purge Canister Solenoid from a truck we parked a while back. Next is the PCV valve. Not looking forward to checking the fuel pressure. Looks like the fitting is on the drivers side pointing back and within an inch or so of the fire wall. And of course being a 2003, it's not monitored by the vehicle so I can't read it through the ODBII port while driving. I don't suspect the pump, it was replaced not long before we parked this truck, but it has been sitting for almost two years. Oh yeah, and probably used a half a can of carb cleaner wetting down every hose under the hood checking for a vacuum leak... no joy.

Forscan lists a few other possible culprits, but it literally triggers both banks at the same time, and only if I have my foot in it on the interstate. I have a major power issue at interstate speed as well, but I also have not yet crawled under to check the transmission band adjustment either. That was supposed to have been today's project, but something else went haywire so hopefully tomorrow.

BTW, you wouldn't happen to know what the fuel pressure should be? I can go hunting, but thought I'd ask.

 

[RonD]

1998 and up Rangers use 55-65psi running fuel pressure
Should hold above 30psi Key off........for a few MONTHS

 

[vigness]

Thanks, good to know.

Way back when you could still work on EVERYTHING on your vehicle, I ran a small shop. Pisses me off I had to take her EDGE to the stealership to have spark plugs changed. Removing the manifold and moving wiring harnesses just to change the back three spark plugs just pisses me off...

 

[DILLARD000]

Believe your PCV Valve is on the rear of the V6~4.0~SOHC Left ValveCover, close to the FireWall, as shown below.
Ford#ev243 wOut 5/16"CoolantOxbow & Ford#ev268 With 5/16"CoolantOxbow,
are both the very same PCVValve wOut\With that useless CoolantOxbow;
both fit the 1/4Turn hole in the rear of the left ValveCover on the V6~4.0l~SOHC.
Be gentle removing\installing the PCVValve as the plastic tabs in the ValveCover break easiliy.
Recommend deleting the Oxbow & the associated 5/16" Coolant Hoses+Tees & the 5/16" Barbs on the PCVHeatExchanger;
this warming loop is a "Rube Goldberg" design that really does not work & is only a potential source of coolant leaks.
Considering your Kansas climate compared to my 9k Ft Altitude, UNLESS inspections require it to stay in place?

While your there, check the PCV Vacuum Elbow+Tube assembly; notorious for cracks+leaks & causing Fuel~Air TroubleCodes.
If keeping the PCVCoolantLoop, recommend replacing the notoriously leaky 5/8~5/16~5/8" PlasticTee+HoseAssembly
with a StainlessBarbedTee (Amazon\Ebay) & stock hoses.

 

[vigness]

Good thought on getting rid of the coolant tube. I know why I had trouble spotting it now. Under the coil pack, that's under the wiper motor on the fire wall, and beside the brake vacuum booster. If you don't look at just the right angle, you never see it. Looks like getting a hand in there will require taking the coil pack loose. I sprayed everything down with carb cleaner a while back, but I'm not 100% that I got that area on the back of the engine. Worth using the rest of the can and giving that area a bath as well.

Dillard, mine looks like your top center post. You mentioned it's a 1/4 turn configuration. You wouldn't happen to remember which way it turn?

 

[DILLARD000]

...looks like your top center post.
...1/4 turn configuration. You wouldn't happen to remember which way it turn?

Yep, that's the PCVValve before deleting the attached PCVCoolantLoop OxBow+5/16"Hoses.
1/4 Turn "Lefty Lucy, Righty Tighty"; again gently as the ValveCover plastic tabs easily break off.

If you do delete the PCVCoolantLoop, you'll need to delete the contraption pictured below mounted near the Right ValveCover.
And the plastic Tee assembly pictured above, near the Right side FireWall.
Just replace them with straight thru 5/8" hoses.

Also recommend replacing the notoriously leaky plastic HeaterControlValve with a metal version, when replacing the 5/8"HeaterHoses.

 

[vigness]

Thanks for the info. Will have to find time and daylight to check it over. It sucks not having an actual garage I can pull it into.

Now if I could just find someone near Kansas City to work on the 4.0 in the old '98 I'd be in heaven. Over heated it and parked it with two cold cylinders. Have a '05 F-150 with cam phaser / engine troubles to trade for labor.

 

[vigness]

And the fun never ends...

Didn't have time to actually pull it apart, but thought I'd get the light in there, spray it down with carb cleaner... who knows. It looked like the typical old engine that's driven regularly on dust gravel road... DIRTY!

Problem was it wasn't a build up of gunk and dirt on there. Had to go get my good strong LED light I could stick down close.... ah *&&*@$#%$% The current valve is held in place with what looks like RTV Black. Kinda starting to make sense now. The dual lean bank error only pops up if I'm under load and with my foot in it, or on the interstate doing 65+.

Have to be careful, I have to be able to drive this thing and haul stuff on a regular basis. Hope I won't be too screwed if it falls apart on me.

 

[vigness]

Got it swapped out, and yes I used some RTV black. Only one of the two tabs was there, and then only partially.

In testing it out, discovered to decent cracks in the intake duct, so there went some more RTV black. The test drive went pretty well after that fiasco.

 

[vigness]

You guys are not going to believe this... all this for some God D**n mud daubers!!!

1. Purge solenoid
2. Fuel filter
3. PCV valve
4. Cracked air duct and so-so dirty air filter.

Still had squat for power. Had my glove on and felt down in the bottom of the air box and fingers in the resonator 'horn'. Felt something, but it was a COLD morning. Got out today and stuck my fingers, minus gloves, and was SOOOOOOOOO pissed. The truck had been parked for over a year... and the mud daubers had built a nest in the resinator horn blocking off at least two thirds. Had to pop the headlight and stick a long extension through from the front, but that mud plug came out. Took it for a quick spin and I HAVE POWER !!!!!.

 

[Kira]

High School boys: Hey man, cold air intake!
Mud Daubers: Hey man, NO air intake!