Paint Question : SingleCoat Urathane vs Acrylic Enamel ?

[Biggfoot44]

Finally , my 1994 Ranger std cab is ready to paint . I had a moonlighting indirect co- worker do all the bodywork exceeding my expectations , and it's ready to shoot .

I'm looking for a basic paint job that doesn't suck . I don't want to fall any farther down the rabbit hole than I have to , having spent exactly the same on preparatory body work , as I did on the truck . And no , as interesting a separate hobby as it may be , I don't have the time , or workspace to paint myself presently .

I'm dating myself , but back in the tail end of the Carburetor Era , I has helping out on a couple of hobbyist paint jobs with Acrylic Enamel . Back then it was well regarded for its intended purpose . Not daunting to get a decent finish , looked good , and much more durable than the old school lacquer of the era .

Were we deluded not knowing better ? Does it still work as well today ?

Yeah, yeah . The "good- ish" answer is two coats of Urathane color , plus clear coat . But my present selection is between a single coat of all in one Urathane vs AE . One of them costs 25% more .

In short words and sentences , can y'all convince me AE sucks , and/ or that single coat poly is unequivocally worth more than 25% additional cost ?

 

[adsm08]

I'd do an epoxy enamel myself.

I did an oil-based single coat (well, primer plus color, so two coats, but only one of color) with no clear a few years back. It came out better than I expected and so far is holding up better than I hoped.

 

[gw33gp]

I have painted and touched up my race car quite a few times and prefer acrylic enamel with a urethane catalyst. It provide a very nice finish and is more durable. The problem is acrylic enamel is not legal in CA and I have to go to Nevada to get it. The last time I bought it, I got the last of what they had and they were not planning to stock it anymore. I am sure there are still places you can still get it.

The problem with most new urethanes is they are low VOC (possibly water based) and can be inferior paint plus difficult to apply correctly. If you can find a urethane that is not low VOC, it would most likely be the best.

Aerospace uses an epoxy primer with a urethane top coat for durability but that is not an automotive paint.

 

[Biggfoot44]

Thanks guys . I will have an update probably mid September .

 

[Biggfoot44]

Dropped off at Paint Camp . If I can get Littlefoot44 to be smartphone literate for me , I'll try to post a pic next weekend .

 

[Shran]

Speaking of paints and urethane in particular... what's the group opinion on this:

https://tcpglobal.com/products/rsp-ub2524-kit-s

For my stepside truck.

I am looking at it because my buddy shot the truck once already with this exact kit, some of it needs to be redone, and I need to paint the box.

 

[Biggfoot44]

It's done , enamel plus clear coat , looks good . I'm too computer ( smartphone too ) illiterate to post a picture by myself , I'll try to catch up with Littlefoot44 to help me .

I'd initially intended stock color , but the nice paint guy offered any other color of blue for no extra charge . We looked thru the sample book, and Mrs Biggfoot was taken with a particular shade of medium dark blue metallic . I look under the outdoor light holding against the truck , and though it looked good also .

So a week later ( determined by my schedule ) , and ........ It looked lighter on the entire truck than on 1in sample . But It looks good ! Ended up closer to the blue of the interior , but it works very well .

 

[Biggfoot44]

And here it is (Mrs Biggfoot's '99 V-8 Explorer behind it) .

 

[RobbieD]

That turned out really nice, and that blue does look good. Ain't nothing like a new paint job to make these older trucks stand out.

 

[gaz]

Both are reliable paint systems, the epoxy enamel is easier to upkeep while the poly is more durable. It's a win either way ..)

That looks very nice!

 

[SmartMax1]

Finally , my 1994 Ranger std cab is ready to paint . I had a moonlighting indirect co- worker do all the bodywork exceeding my expectations , and it's ready to shoot .

I'm looking for a basic paint job that doesn't suck . I don't want to fall any farther down the rabbit hole than I have to , having spent exactly the same on preparatory body work , as I did on the truck . And no , as interesting a separate hobby as it may be , I don't have the time , or workspace to paint myself presently .

I'm dating myself , but back in the tail end of the Carburetor Era , I has helping out on a couple of hobbyist paint jobs with Acrylic Enamel . Back then it was well regarded for its intended purpose . Not daunting to get a decent finish , looked good , and much more durable than the old school lacquer of the era .

Were we deluded not knowing better ? Does it still work as well today ?

Yeah, yeah . The "good- ish" answer is two coats of Urathane color , plus clear coat . But my present selection is between a single coat of all in one Urathane vs AE . One of them costs 25% more .

In short words and sentences , can y'all convince me AE sucks , and/ or that single coat poly is unequivocally worth more than 25% additional cost ?

Bringing back a 94 myself. Working on me mechanical issues right now with plans.for new paint come spring. It will be interesting to see what you came up with on your 94. Share those pics to. It's always nice to see before and after. My profile picture is the 94 that I'm into now. Good luck with the future new look.

 

[SmartMax1]

That turned out really nice, and that blue does look good. Ain't nothing like a new paint job to make these older trucks stand out.

New paint looks good there. I am either doing my 94 in Black or White.

 

[Biggfoot44]

I have pics after bodywork, before paint . But the Before- Before pics were taken with previous , since dead , phone . I didn't realize I didn't have total before pictures until after it went to my body guy .


The truck spent 1994- 2018 as an actual working farm truck . So the hood and roof were delaminated , and had small to medium dents various places .

Added - I had a moonlighting pro body guy who was reasonable , but the overall $ breakdown was bodywork 2/3 , basic- ish paint job 1/3 .