Oil pan Gasket

[WhiteBroncoII2WD]

Well, I've noticed that oil is leaking from the front of the pan, time for a replace. I don't mind too much pulling the engine. My question is other than Fel-Pro which I've always used and so wish there was a Fel-Pro blue for the oil pan are there any other better gasekts to use on the 2.9 Liter?

 

[WhiteBroncoII2WD]

Well, I've noticed that oil is leaking from the front of the pan, time for a replace. I don't mind too much pulling the engine. My question is other than Fel-Pro which I've always used and so wish there was a Fel-Pro blue for the oil pan are there any other better gasekts to use on the 2.9 Liter?

what's the best way to ensure a leak free oil pan?

 

[jhammel85]

Use a bead or two of gasket sealer and I would go for a rubber oil pan gasket if you can. I don't have much faith in Cork Gaskets.

 

[WhiteBroncoII2WD]

Use a bead or two of gasket sealer and I would go for a rubber oil pan gasket if you can. I don't have much faith in Cork Gaskets.

what would the best sealer be to use?

 

[jhammel85]

Just a High Temp tube of Permatex. You know, with the blue swirl (ish) Logo?
Its all I've ever used. I've never really had a need to go outside of buying something from them.

 

[88_Eddie]

i just replaced the oil pan gasket in my 2.9, it's all rubber, i used a dab or two of high temp gasket lube here and there, should work great. the only cork gaskets i have are for the valve covers

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

what would the best sealer be to use?

Permatex Ultra Grey. Period.

The only thing we use at the dealership.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

what's the best way to ensure a leak free oil pan?

nobody has mentioned this. make sure the oil pan mating surface is nice and flat.

DON'T use a bead of silicone, it WILL clog the oil pump pick up.

the best way to get it to seal and never leak again is to use fel-pro blue.

1: clean the mating surfaces, then spray brake cleaner or some other cleaner on them, wipe clean (this dries it and removes oil residue)

1a: check that the oil pan is flat and not bent around the bolt holes, if so. use a hammer to flatten it. then re-clean

2: use permatex ultra black, copper, or grey. i like copper. dab the silicone on your clean finger, then dab it on the oil pan mating surface (imagine you are sponge painting, don't rub it on too much, just make contact and then move on). do this until the entire mating surface is covered in a thin but even layer of silicone.

3: put your gasket on the oil pan, line up the bolt holes perfectly, trying not to smudge your silicone. go take a break and let the gasket dry to the oil pan, this should take about an hour.

3a: after the gasket is dried to the oil pan, and you are ready to install the pan. dab silicone onto the opposite side of the gasket then gently install onto the engine, tighten all the bolts with your fingers just enough for the gasket to make contact with the engine block evenly. go take an hour break and let it dry to the engine.

4: tighten the oil pan bolts to the proper torque spec and nothing more. then run the engine to operating temperature, allow to cool and retorque.

5: enjoy, if done correctly your oil pan should never leak again


this method works on pretty much every gasket you install. ESPECIALLY cork gaskets

 

[WhiteBroncoII2WD]

nobody has mentioned this. make sure the oil pan mating surface is nice and flat.

DON'T use a bead of silicone, it WILL clog the oil pump pick up.

the best way to get it to seal and never leak again is to use fel-pro blue.

1: clean the mating surfaces, then spray brake cleaner or some other cleaner on them, wipe clean (this dries it and removes oil residue)

1a: check that the oil pan is flat and not bent around the bolt holes, if so. use a hammer to flatten it. then re-clean

2: use permatex ultra black, copper, or grey. i like copper. dab the silicone on your clean finger, then dab it on the oil pan mating surface (imagine you are sponge painting, don't rub it on too much, just make contact and then move on). do this until the entire mating surface is covered in a thin but even layer of silicone.

3: put your gasket on the oil pan, line up the bolt holes perfectly, trying not to smudge your silicone. go take a break and let the gasket dry to the oil pan, this should take about an hour.

3a: after the gasket is dried to the oil pan, and you are ready to install the pan. dab silicone onto the opposite side of the gasket then gently install onto the engine, tighten all the bolts with your fingers just enough for the gasket to make contact with the engine block evenly. go take an hour break and let it dry to the engine.

4: tighten the oil pan bolts to the proper torque spec and nothing more. then run the engine to operating temperature, allow to cool and retorque.

5: enjoy, if done correctly your oil pan should never leak again


this method works on pretty much every gasket you install. ESPECIALLY cork gaskets

I thank you for the step by step. My only thing is that other than the four corners the instructions for the Fel-Pro gasekt stay install dry, and they type out dry in capital letters.

 

[Big Jim M]

Toldja so!

I thank you for the step by step. My only thing is that other than the four corners the instructions for the Fel-Pro gasekt stay install dry, and they type out dry in capital letters.

The ONLY sealant i ever use on an entire engine rebuild is at the four corners I use a little dab about the size of a match head. All other places only cause problems.
Oh I forgot.. I do place 4 or 5 small dabs on some gaskets such as valve covers.. I install the gasket in the cover and place a few bolts thru the cover and the gasket. Then I set the cover down on the gasket on a flat surface and allow the sealant to harden for a few hours. Then when I do install the cover the gasket is right there held in place by the sealant..
But that's all!
Do what the directions say and you will be good.
Big JIm

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

I thank you for the step by step. My only thing is that other than the four corners the instructions for the Fel-Pro gasekt stay install dry, and they type out dry in capital letters.

i work in a shop, i can't risk having a leak because i would have to do it a second time for FREE. this is why i do it like this and the results are very satisfying.

if you put that gasket on dry after removing the engine you will be sorry

a light coating of silicone on the gasket will not cause any problems.. but when you use a bead of silicone thats when you cause problems, it gets pushed out and flakes off and plugs the oil pump pickup screen. this is why you let the silicone dry to the parts before you tighten down, then there is no possibility for the silicone to squeeze out

 

[WhiteBroncoII2WD]

i work in a shop, i can't risk having a leak because i would have to do it a second time for FREE. this is why i do it like this and the results are very satisfying.

if you put that gasket on dry after removing the engine you will be sorry

a light coating of silicone on the gasket will not cause any problems.. but when you use a bead of silicone thats when you cause problems, it gets pushed out and flakes off and plugs the oil pump pickup screen. this is why you let the silicone dry to the parts before you tighten down, then there is no possibility for the silicone to squeeze out

I've never really had a major problem with Fel-Pro gaskets leaking and the only per say problem now is that oil seems to be coming through the front bolt holes. I called Fel-Pro and they said they've encounter this issue before and the cure beeing to replace the bolts.