Odd /no cam sensor. Please help!

[Rat Rod Bob]

I have not seen one about this subject exactly yet. From everything I know this is a 4.0 and it is a Injected pushrod. I say this as this engine was installed into a hot rod before I got it and so the previous owner didn’t finished the project but I investigated engine #s and that is what the different factory parts line up to.
Can you please assist me and everyone else about this exact situation.
I have looked at all the books and Internet on researching and can’t seem to figure out this engine situation. If you look at the picture below you will see that my CAM position sensor solenoid & synchronizer does not have a plug on the top of the assembly. It is located at the back of the engine, just before the bell housing. I lost spark after having it for the 1st time once I finished hooking up the wires from the Ranger wire looms/ ignition assembly. The previous owner had started this project by removing the whole drivetrain, ALL wiring inside & out and installed it into the car and then ran out of time. I changed crankshaft sensor as I wasn’t receiving signal from it after loosing spark but that wasn’t it. I also stopped hearing the initial click from the fuel pump relay when you just turn on the key. I change the relay with a new just to verify but no change. So now I have stopped as I don’t want to be a parts changer..
Are you there are certain ones of these engines that actually don’t use an actual sensor after synchronizer/oil pump shaft?
Check all of these items
-ignition coils… Ohms and voltage
-continuity of ignition/spark plug wires
-ohms and voltage at crank sensor
I have plugged in OBD1 digital reader but I am not receiving any codes as it just comes on but gives nothing when I hold and release the test button as directions state.

 

[snoranger]

That’s an early 4.0L. It doesn’t use the cam synchronizer. It has batch fired injectors, so it doesn’t need the cam sync

 

[Rat Rod Bob]

That’s wonderful to hear from someone that quick! So moving forward to diagnose the loss of spark what do I go after next to check?

 

[sheep herder]

That’s an early 4.0L. It doesn’t use the cam synchronizer. It has batch fired injectors, so it doesn’t need the cam sync

Please move this to the proper section.

 

[Rat Rod Bob]

How do I move this to the proper section? I take it that would be electronics?

 

[Rat Rod Bob]

so maybe I’m not understanding the reply but doesn’t The engine still need a camshaft sensor?

 

[snoranger]

Please move this to the proper section.

I got it... give me some time, I’m trying to make dinner.

 

[snoranger]

so maybe I’m not understanding the reply but doesn’t The engine still need a camshaft sensor?

No

 

[Dirtman]

Engines do not NEED cam sensors. They can run perfectly fine solely off just a crank sensor. Cam sensors were added later on for emissions reasons. They add a tad more precise ignition control since the camshaft spins at half the speed of the crank, it also acts as a misfire monitor.

 

[Rat Rod Bob]

So thoughts on what to look at since coil pack & crank sensor & EDIS all testing out fine and I am getting signal at EDIS6 modulle?

 

[adsm08]

Test the bigger red wire at the coil for key-on power. If OK check for pulsed grounds at the other three wires while cranking.

That slug you posted so many pictures of is basically the lower portion of a cam sync/distributor. It has a gear that engages the cam and a drive boss that runs the oil pump shaft.

 

[Rat Rod Bob]

Thank you ADSM 08. I tested and I’m getting solid voltage 12+ at the power wire with key on.
All the other three I’m getting reading of 8.3+/- while cranking
I understand to a point what the shaft does but just wanted to show people what exactly I had as most people are understanding that it was supposed to have a sensor on top of it with the plug-in and obviously mine does not do to difference of it being batch fire injectors. Which obviously I did not understand either.
So but now that we have info from the coil plug?
just want to say again how much I appreciate the help from everyone! This is a project I am taking on with my 13yr old son to be a father, son & grandpa generation thing together and we hit a brick wall.

 

[Rat Rod Bob]

I just noticed that it didn’t put the rest of my text in… What are thoughts on what to go after next and check?

 

[Dirtman]

No insult to your intelligence implied here. But have you stepped back and done the basics? Check fuses, check ground straps, verify battery is in good condition, etc?

 

[Rat Rod Bob]

No insult to your intelligence implied here. But have you stepped back and done the basics? Check fuses, check ground straps, verify battery is in good condition, etc?

No offense taken. Yes I have went through all the basics like checking those items. I had been looking for a diagnostic tree but then found out as, Ford guru’s like you guys already knew, Ford Doesn’t make diagnostic tree’s they make pinpoints. Hadn’t been able to find one of those for this other then going through a Haynes Book, but to no avail.
-New battery is being used along with charger so not to drain it while testing.
-have checked main fuse block with volt meter & test light for power & Volts & key on/off function working at switches.
checked all fuses & Relay’s

-checked internal fuse block fuses.
-rechecked internal wiring of key to ignition connections even though it had turned over and had sparked after first time of turning the key after connecting, just incase wire came loose.