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Jensentp

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I have a 1999 ranger with a 3.0l 5 speed. 156,000 miles. The other day it stalled in the drive through and after waiting several minutes it did start again but died a final death on the way home. My scanner originally pulled codes of p0351,p0352,p0353 abc channels of coil failed. I was able to read rpm through the scanner trying to start it, I don’t have a tach. So I changed coils, crank sensor, swapped relays with know good ones, fuses are good, disconnected pcm and engine harness connector to clean but they were spot less. All not help. It cranks but won’t fire. The theft light works as normal not flashing quickly, battery is strong and now it won’t throw a code or start.
so then I moved onto checking the connector at the coil, yes 12v on red wire, the other three all open, no ground with key off. So I use a test light with ground clamp on red wire and poke the first terminal next to it and it pulses just as all the videos show, second terminal same think, third terminal is where my question is, it stays a steady bright the entire time, no pulsing like the other two. So yes I would like to check the wire for continuity like you about to suggest but I don’t have and can’t find a wiring print to see what pin of the pcm I should ring to. Also if it does ring good then I assume it’s the pcm bad?
 


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RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

Good testing so far (y)

The CEL(check engine light) should come on with key on, that means Computer(PCM) is booting up

When cranking engine over the CEL should go OFF, this means the PCM is getting a timing pulse from the Crank sensor, it will only start spark and fuel injectors if it gets this timing pulse

Crank sensor is at the lower front of the engine, not to be confused with the Cam sensor at the top back of the engine
Some 3.0l can show a No Start if Cam sensor fails, this is because the cam synchro tower also spins the oil pump, and its assumed if Cam sensor is not "spinning" then neither is oil pump, so no start would be GOOD
But I don't think that applied to all year 3.0l Rangers

The 3 coil pack grounds go to PCM
tan/orange wire to pin 52
tan/white pin 26
tan/green pin 78

Engine should still start with 2 working coil packs

Try 50/50 test
Spray gasoline or Quick start(ether) into the intake and crank engine
If it starts and then dies you have a Fuel delivery issue
If it doesn't fire up/start then its a spark issue
50/50 instant results

This was/is the go to test since the 1890's, lol, so time proven
 
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Jensentp

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Ok the ether was not help but worth a try. I rang all three ground wires to the pcm 26,52,78. All three were good. The cel light is acting exactly as it should. Still no codes. The cam synchro I think would throw a code but not sure. So I think I’m down to a pcm? Any other suggestions before I go broke?
 

RonD

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50/50 didn't get engine to fire even though 2 coils are working????
Even 1 working coil should get ether or gasoline to explode

If not then you have no compression, which is a long shot on a 3.0l but not as long a shot as bad PCM especially if its been setting codes
I would test at least one cylinder for compression above 120psi, expected is 165psi

The coil pack itself is wired oddly
3 4
2 6
1 5

but can be
1 5
2 6
3 4

Only 2 and 6 are always on the center coil in the pack, and then 1 and 5 are always together as are 3 and 4 on the end coils
 

Jensentp

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Double checked my work by running the pulse check , no there is no pulse light on any of the wires, this truck is one hiccup from the scrap yard!
 

RonD

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If CEL goes off when cranking but there is no spark pulse then PCM would be the issue but it would be a very unusual failure
 

Jensentp

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We me - unusual is the common . Massive black cloud lives over my head
 

bills4065

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Jensentp, did you ever resolve this issue? RonD gave you great advice there.
 

Jensentp

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Jensentp, did you ever resolve this issue? RonD gave you great advice there.
Sort of. It was the pcm. I ordered a new one programmed for the truck and now I have spark, where I had none prior. BUT I have to tow it to the dealer, the pcm and pats modules are not synced so it won’t fire the injectors. I’m on vacation right now so I hope to get time to tow it next week.
 

bills4065

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Jensentp, keep us posted. What a nightmare.
 

RonD

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Check with some Mobile Mechanics that work on Fords, if they have Ford IDS software(or ForScan) on a laptop they should be able to "remarry" the PATS Module and new PCM together and redo your keys, have at least 2 PATS keys available
If you only have 1 key then go to a locksmith and have them cut a new PATS key to match your lock, NOT CLONE the key, just cut the key to match the lock

That will be less expensive than tow bill and Fords bill

If you feel capable you can try ForScan software and do it yourself

Article here: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1500

ForScan is an inexpensive diagnostic software you can buy and use without a Ford License fee
It requires a cable to match your tablet/computer interface, plus the subscription to open up all features
 
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