'Hot wire' the coil, just to test, put jumper wire from battery positive to coil +, leave other coil wires connected
Try to start
What you described it as "A quick spark upon initial crank-no spark while cranking-two sparks when stop cranking " this is a "classic" symptom of START wire issue
There are TWO separate 12v wires from ignition switch that power Spark, one powers spark with key on, the other powers Spark with key in START, the 12v in ON is CUT OFF when key is turned to START, so if no 12v on that START wire then no spark
With key ON coil is powered up, so will spark one time if power is cut, that's how coils are suppose to work
When you stop trying to start the engine key comes back to ON and engine is still turning so a couple more sparks, but engine is turning too slow to start
This two separate wire system was originally used with a Resistor Block or a Resistor Wire so coils didn't burn out
The other "classic" symptom for this setup was engine would start but then die as soon key came back to ON, so START wire has 12v but ON wire doesn't
Fuel pump only runs for 2 seconds with Key on, then won't start again until RPMs are above 400
Cranking speed is 200rpms
But each time you turn key OFF and then back ON it will run 2 seconds again, so you can repeat key on and off to build up pressure
I would try Jumper wire on Fuel Pump test port
It is on the OBD1 connector in engine bay
Look here:
https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/testing-eec-iv-equipped-engines/
2nd drawing
OBD1 connector, it has Fuel Pump slot labelled
Computer Grounds the fuel pump relay to activate it, for those 2 second or full time after engine is above 400rpm
This slot is that ground wire from computer to FP Relay
So use a Jumper wire in that slot and to a Ground(battery negative)
With Key ON FP relay should "click" closed and fuel pump should come on full time
You can pull the jumper out of slot and put it back in, with key still on, and you should here relay "click" and fuel pump come on each time its grounded
And try to start engine with jumper inplace, doesn't hurt anything
This tests if FP relay is working as it should
And you can use a test light in the slot and to battery positive, light should come on for 2 seconds each time key is turned on, this tests if computer is grounding FP relay as it should
Just FYI, the 2 second thing is for safety, in an accident/rollover any electric fuel pump will keep on pumping out fuel if battery is still connected
If a fuel line should break that would be a VERY VERY BAD THING, lol
But if a fuel line broke then engine would STALL and computer would shut off power to fuel pump once RPMs were under 400
So a safety thing