Need new liner for my flux core welder but need help.

[lil_Blue_Ford]

If you don’t weld much and haven’t put many hours on it, I can’t help but wonder if the liner is indeed bad. My one buddy has a little Craftsman welder like yours, it’s got low hours an a few spools through it and no liner issues so far. My big Lincoln has probably 30# of wire run through it with no liner change (It has a 44# spool in it, lol). Of course, I’m not an expert on it, but it just makes me wonder if there is not something else that’s the root of the issue

 

[Bgunner]

I lent my cousin the welder and it took a trip wheeling in his tool box in the truck. It came back with the face pushed in and a kink in the liner. I understand your question about it being worn out and mentioning that they should last a while. Its had about 7 small spools run through it over the 13 years or so I have had it so the liner shouldn't be bad from ware and tear but an impromptu wheeling trip with it didn't help keep the liner from getting pinched by the welder body slamming down after a hard bump.

The wire will flow through then stop but the feed wheels keep moving trying to push it but it wont go through. A pull of the wire at the stinger end is enough to get it past the tough spot and go again for a short time before binding up. I pull it till there is resistance on the wire and while watching the spool there is maybe half an inch at most that comes off the spool and I get an inch to an inch and a half or so of wire out of the tip.

The only other part besides a liner I think could cause this is the feed wheels themselves, keep in mind I know nothing about this, and the wheels look to be in descent shape no obvious ware on them. Again I could be wrong because I never needed to deal with such things before.

 

[scotts90ranger]

If it helps at all, Century used to make the welders for Sears and Wards, of course they got bought out so they barely do anything anymore... I've never changed a liner...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

A kink in the liner would definitely be a problem. Makes more sense now, I wasn’t aware of physical damage to it

 

[sgtsandman]

I lent my cousin the welder and it took a trip wheeling in his tool box in the truck. It came back with the face pushed in and a kink in the liner.

Why is that it's always family screwing a person's stuff up? And people wonder why I never lend anything out....

 

[RussCowdin]

One adjustment that i dealt with on my automated welding machine was the wire feeding tension. You don't want those wheels gripping the wire so tight that it leaves marks. You want it only tight enough to feed and no more. That wire gets crushed easily, and becomes egg shaped, causing linger damage and loose particle build up in the line. I recommend using the pink swabs to clean the wire and the black for lube if it doesn't mess with your arc to much. If you have low hours on the machine then i suspect debris in the liner.

 

[Bgunner]

Why is that it's always family screwing a person's stuff up? And people wonder why I never lend anything out....

I haven't lent him another tool since. I only needed to learn the lesson once.

I ordered a liner, hopefully the correct one, so now to wait to get it and install it. I still have one tab to weld on for my fog light bracket and I need to make a tool to hold the water pump shaft still to remove the fan clutch so this should give me an idea of how well it works after the new liner.

 

[cmequestionu]

I second the "pull it out and take it to your local welding supply shop". Liners should be fairly easy to replace. Something to keep in mind, especially as a novice welder (I was guilty of this in the beginning) if your welder is on a cart be sure to not use the gun as a leash. Pulling the cart with the gun can cause the liner to kink. Also, be sure to keep your line as straight as possible. That little machine is trying to push 8' of wire through that liner, give it the best chance possible.

 

[Bgunner]

Received the new liner today so coming soon I'll be attempting the replacement of it.

I know how I should cut the liner and to be sure to file down any burrs that may be left by the cut. Is there anything else I should pay particular attention to when changing the liner? I'm a first time liner changer and any guidance or reading material you may have suggestions for is welcomed.

Thanks,
Bgunner.

 

[RussCowdin]

Don't cut it too short. Cut it 3 it 4 times if you have to, but you can't make it longer if you cut too much the first time.

 

[cmequestionu]

I find it helps if the cord is laid out straight, cut it a little long.

 

[Shran]

FWIW your welder was made by Clarke and is identical to a Clarke MIG 95 welder. Some parts are available through HTP (namely, the entire stinger, if you need one someday.)

I had one of these welders, it was the first welder I bought and I used it a LOT.

Fun fact: it is possible to convert these to run gas. You need the stinger from either a donor welder, or a new one from HTP, and a regulator and gas bottle. It requires some wiring modifications so that you can switch the electrode polarity - gas is one way, flux core is the other. The replacement stinger is needed because the gas block and tube you need are not included on the one you have now.

I got about halfway through converting mine but got a really good deal on a Miller 211 and ended up selling all of my other welding equipment. Clarke welders are a gem for most people that don't weld a lot - they are built way better than the Harbor Freight junk, they are cheap, and pretty durable.

 

[Bgunner]

Thanks for that info @Shran . I'll put the Clark number I the cover so it's always with it for when I need parts next time.

I find it helps if the cord is laid out straight, cut it a little long.

I have a chunk leftover from a 2x4 I put across the bed I use for cutting and drilling so I'm planning on stretching it across the long way to make the cut. For length I was thinking just a little longer than the stock and test fit and go from there.

Obviously I dont want it to long in inside the rubber cover but is there a certain amount of slack or is it just a judgement call on how much longer than the power wire in there?

 

[Shran]

I would use the old liner as a fishing line and pull the new liner through with it, secure the end of the new liner in the feed assembly like it should be, mark right where it comes out of the stinger, loosen it at the feed assembly, pull it out of the stinger and cut off just enough so that you can screw the tip in (maybe so that it goes back into the gun about 1/4" - 1/2".) Debur your cut with a file, secure it into the feed and you should be done.

 

[Bgunner]

Update:

I got the liner installed. I used my 4" grinder with a cut of wheel to shorten the liner by about 4 inches, probably could have gone an inch shorter to be the same exact length as the original liner.

Special note: if you have the same welder the proper liner number Is the 85355 part number. This does not include the liner inside the stinger just from the machine to the stinger.

I need to hit my local Tractor supply and see if they have the proper size tips since mine was worn and I don't have the proper size in my spares'. The wire by hand is difficult to push though my current tip, part will be explained later, so I'm sure it is very dirty and I'm just going to replace it.

So So the install was a bit stressful till I realized the liner was wrapped around the black wire ( OK annoyed with the web site, could just be me because I hate touch screens, but I'm on the PC now because every time I hit back space on the phone it bring up the Bold, italicized Red lettering. Every time... Been drinking so this is an issue with drinking fingers. See the beginning of this paragraph's sentience as proof. )... carrying on... that ran with the liner through the black hose "?" (outer sheathing) to the stinger. This is how it was from the factory so I untwisted it and the liner pulled right out. Once this was cleared up it was no biggie to slide the out the old liner and then the slide in the new one. I did have kid pull the end of it so I could mount the stinger to mark the proper length.

Now that I have taken it apart I noticed the feed wheel had what appeared to be thick oil coating it and when I looked into the old liner the very end was stuffed with what is best described as dirty engine grease looking stuff in the very end of it. With help from our TRS in the know guy I learned this should not be there and could of been, and my feelings are most likely was the cause of, my issues. I have cleaned up the feed wheel and surrounding area from this oil-ish stuff and now eager to try it out.

Now a question: My liner goes only from the block inside the stinger to the machine but there is a second smaller one, lets call it a liner because I don't know if that is its proper name, inside the stinger that runs from the block to the tip. It is belled out at the block end and normal size at the tip end. I did not replaced this part because it is separate than the liner itself. I did remove it from the stinger and look at its condition. Not scaly rusty bit some surface rust on the outside of this part and I wiped it down flexed it to remove any free rust but am curious about its condition. Does this pieces need to be replaced at times or is do think it will be OK to use?