Need help quickly....


rusty ol ranger

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I have an atv ride this weekend and last night on a test ride my 01 polaris sportsman 500 decided to cook the right rear wheel bearing.

I got a new bearing coming wednsday, so theres hope but heres my question...

The damn inner bearing race (im assuming) is stuck to the friggin CV shaft.

The housing is made of aluminum and looks like this...

s-l400-1.jpg

Back side.

s-l400-2.jpg

Front side.

1- Do you think its safe to hook a jaw puller to the housing and try to press the CV out of the housing?

2- Can i use heat? (map gas)

3- Would i be safer to use a block of wood on the cv end and a sledge hammer first?

Any ideas is apperciated.
 


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RobbieD

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I'd be tempted to stick it in the freezer overnight, then CAREFULLY heat the housing and give the bearing a few taps with a wood block and hammer. And maybe hose it good with PB Blaster or similar, beforehand.

I'd be concerned that a jaw puller would stress too small of an area on the housing and crack it.

Good luck!
 

snoranger

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1. Yes. Put some tension on it with the puller, then give the end of the puller a whack with a hammer. That will usually break them free.

2. Last resort... don't go too crazy with the heat.

3. Yes. That's what I would try first.
 

Uncle Gump

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It looks like a ball joint press would push it right out... after some PB and a bit of heat.
 

RangerFabWorks

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I’d get a piece of brass or something soft. That’s the size of the other race. And tap it from the back side.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Perhaps that picture wasnt the best thing, thats not mine just one i found on ebay lol.

The CV shaft end is actually stuck in the carrier, hung up on the bearing. Getting the bearing out shouldnt be to rough, i hope. But in order to get the bearing out i gotta get the CV shaft out of the bearing lol.
 

adsm08

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I never heat aluminum that I don't plan to replace. Not with fire anyway, maybe with a heat gun.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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1] in the freezer and then heat gun on the aluminum and some gentle tapping.

2] As above but pound the shaft against something solid. You are doing the same as setting an axe head or hammer head onto a shaft, but backwards. Let the weight of the housing work with gravity as you pound the shaft down. I don't know if the housing and shaft are going to be oriented to let this work.
 

RonD

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Aluminum expands with heat 7 times more than steel, this is where MLS head gaskets came from, aluminum heads on cast iron blocks
The heads would expand faster and more than the block as it heated up RUBBING the regular composite gasket until it failed

MLS allows SLIDING instead of rubbing, but in cold climates the aluminum heads would shrink too much and MLS gaskets would leak coolant

Cooling the aluminum might be enough, shrink it away from the steel inside it
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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There is a fairly cheap trick to freezing metal. I can't remember exact details but was to use electrical contact cleaner (or something like that in a spray can). The quick evaporation cools the metal down to freezing if enough is used. Maybe someone can give more info?
 

rusty ol ranger

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Keyboard duster?

Turn that can upside down the liquid that comes out would freeze a polar bears nuts.
 

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Keyboard duster?

Turn that can upside down the liquid that comes out would freeze a polar bears nuts.
That's certainly what comes to my mind. I gave someone frostbite that way once. Pretty sure there's still a scar.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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There is a loctite product that is supposed to freeze things too. Part number 996456.
 

Josh B

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Offshore on those big EMD 16 cylinder diesel engines they used to drop dry ice into the cylinder sleeve and just listen for the "clink" as it fell out. IF you had a piece of that small enough to fit that race it might do the same thing, but that stuff can be dangerous to handle I believe, altho the guys out there used to play with it somehow(I never did participate so don't know much about it
 


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