M5OD-R1 help\suggestions

[thebatpeople]

1992 Ford Ranger XLT
original owner
2.3L engine
Mazda M5OD-R1 manual transmission
2WD

point 1
My transmission started making whining noises in every gear but fourth.
I was told that there are holes near the top of the tranny that is leaking fluid. To get to these holes to plug them, I am told that I either need to drop the tranny or cut my floor panel at the shifter. Since my mechanical ability probably isn't up to re-installing the tranny even if I can drop it, I was thinking about cutting the floor panel. I would rather not just start hacking away, so could someone give me a direction to cut? (front, back, driver or passenger side)

point 2
I have been trying to keep my tranny going by filling it with fluid often. I hurt my back recently and couldn't climb under there to fill it up. The whining started to get loud so I drove to the store to get fluid. By the time I got back it was having trouble grabbing in all gears but 4th and reverse. Hopefully, adding the fluid and some time to cool, I will still be able to drive it. But my hopes aren't very high. So, what makes, models and years can I expect to find a ready to bolt up tranny in? I was told by someone that replaced their tranny a few times that they were having trouble finding one in my area. So, what makes, models, years or other transmissions could I use with very little modifications? And how hard would it be to convert it to an automatic(I hope it doesn't come down to this).

point 3
Please feel free to make suggestions in directions I haven't thought of and keep in mind that they should be low cost.

Thanks for any suggestion and info.

 

[Thed]

I'm thinking it might be the countershaft. It probably doesn't do it in fourth because that is when you just lock the input shaft to the output shaft, letting the countershaft spin freely (read: stay still). If it were me I'd assume it to be a bearing inside the countershaft not getting enough lube and screaming for help.

 

[adsm08]

letting the countershaft spin freely (read: stay still). If it were me I'd assume it to be a bearing inside the countershaft not getting enough lube and screaming for help.

That is mostly correct. The counter shaft will never actually stay still because the input shaft is always pushing it with it's gear. It is just unloaded, so all the stress is taken off it's bearings. Also, the counter shaft has no internal bearings. It is one solid piece.

Aside from that, I agree.

As for replacements, 88 to early-build 2000 model 4-cylinder will be bolt in.

If you happen on to a rare 4x4 4-cyl model, it will work, but you will need the drive shaft as well.

 

[Explorin94]

Um...no! It doesn't make any noise in 4th as it is straight through not utilizing the countershaft. The pocket bearing has failed and putting the transmission in 4th correctly aligns the shaft true. Although the counter shaft is always turning while in any gear.

 

[Thed]

That is mostly correct. The counter shaft will never actually stay still because the input shaft is always pushing it with it's gear. It is just unloaded, so all the stress is taken off it's bearings. Also, the counter shaft has no internal bearings. It is one solid piece.

Aside from that, I agree.

As for replacements, 88 to early-build 2000 model 4-cylinder will be bolt in.

If you happen on to a rare 4x4 4-cyl model, it will work, but you will need the drive shaft as well.

Huh... one piece. I haven't been inside the Mazda unit yet, and some of the trannys I've seen had internal bearings with those pesky little needle bearings. I just assumed.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I came across this link in another forum, it was posted by 'entropy'. I have just started looking through all the articles so can't say much, but they do seem to know what they are talking about. They are manual transmission articles geared to the service tech. It may be of service to you or others.
http://www.rsgear.com/technical.aspx

Richard

 

[adsm08]

Huh... one piece. I haven't been inside the Mazda unit yet, and some of the trannys I've seen had internal bearings with those pesky little needle bearings. I just assumed.

The M5OD does have those needle bearings too, but they are all on the output shaft. The input shaft is a 1-piece unit, as is the counter shaft.

 

[Thed]

The M5OD does have those needle bearings too, but they are all on the output shaft. The input shaft is a 1-piece unit, as is the counter shaft.

Do you have any literature for the R2 or R1? I'm interested in opening one up.

 

[thebatpeople]

As for replacements, 88 to early-build 2000 model 4-cylinder will be bolt in.

If you happen on to a rare 4x4 4-cyl model, it will work, but you will need the drive shaft as well.

I am assuming you mean Rangers.

Are there any other years/makes/models that contain a bolt in tranny? (Aerostar, Bronco, Explorer, Mazda)

Thanks for the info.

How difficult is it to swap out a transmission anyway? Keep in mind I am one man with hydraulic floor jack and limited mechanical experience. (i.e. starter, alt, radiator, exhaust, disc brakes, U-joints)

I also found this helpful artical in the tech library. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/shift_rail_plug_maintenance.htm

 

[Thed]

I'll just say it now... the top two bolts are going to be a bitch without the proper tools.

 

[adsm08]

I am assuming you mean Rangers.

Are there any other years/makes/models that contain a bolt in tranny? (Aerostar, Bronco, Explorer, Mazda)

Thanks for the info.

I do mean Rangers. Aside from the Mazda B-series none of the others you listed there ever came with a 4-cly engine. A 95 to 99 B2300 and any B2500 will also have the trans you need.

 

[thebatpeople]

I do mean Rangers. Aside from the Mazda B-series none of the others you listed there ever came with a 4-cly engine. A 95 to 99 B2300 and any B2500 will also have the trans you need.

So an M5OD-R1 out of an explorer with a 4.0 or even a Ranger with a 3.0 would not work? How about an M5OD-R1HD?

From the comment left by stickshift, I will need to send it to a mechanic. Could a mechanic easily (cheaply) convert it over? Just trying to open up my options.

@stickshift
What kind of special tools are needed?

 

[Thed]

No special tools, but cheap ones won't cut it. Six bolts keep the engine married to the tranny and two bolts mount it to the crossmember. Those are the only eight bolts you'll need to worry about for removal. Those top two are just hard to get to, and unless your tranny has ever come out of its place before, there may be a little corrosion around the bolt. The right combination of extensions, sockets, maybe u-joints, and some wrenches will get it out. Getting it back in, though, may be even harder since you have to torque them (technically).

Also, have fun bleeding the slave cylinder. Those are a bitch too.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Do you have any literature for the R2 or R1? I'm interested in opening one up.

http://www.rsgear.com/technical.aspx

 

[adsm08]

So an M5OD-R1 out of an explorer with a 4.0 or even a Ranger with a 3.0 would not work? How about an M5OD-R1HD?

From the comment left by stickshift, I will need to send it to a mechanic. Could a mechanic easily (cheaply) convert it over? Just trying to open up my options.

No, the R1 out of an Explorer or a 3.0 or 4.0 Ranger will not work, nor will the R1HD from the SOHC 4.0. The problem is the bell pattern. The Lima engines (2.0/2.3 (not to be confused with the later 2.3L Duratec)/2.5) have a unique bell housing bolt pattern and starter location. The M5OD uses a 1-piece case with integrated bell housing, so you can't just swap them. Other than the fact that they can't be bolted to your engine because the bolt holes won't line up, they are completely compatible.